Ported or passive radiators in a marine environment?
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Ported or passive radiators in a marine environment?

  1. #1
    Senior Member STV_Keith's Avatar
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    Default Ported or passive radiators in a marine environment?

    I know ported boxes give better bottom end response, but I don't want the chance of getting water inside my ported box. Is a passive radiator setup another direction to look?

    I want to take the rear seat pedastal and make it a speaker box, instead of the aluminum legs that are there now. The area I have is roughly 8.3 cu-ft, and if I used all the room available, could put 4 12's down there. 4 12's would likely sound better than 2 12's and 2 12" passive radiators, but again - water in the ports would be my concern.

    Suggestions?

    Keith-


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    Ported downfire!

    OOPS, there is supposed to be a divider in between the two sides.
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    Quote Originally Posted by STV_Keith View Post
    I know ported boxes give better bottom end response...
    Not neccesarily better, just different. Ported boxes will have an additional 3 db output over a sealed box, theoretically. Bandpass is 6 db. However, the bass response is elevated to where the box has been ported to. So the bass response will be louder with a ported box but it is not as smooth as a response curve as a sealed box. May not matter too much depending on what music you listen to.

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    Senior Member STV_Keith's Avatar
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    Downfiring means more room for the box, and being that it has to be the base of the seat, it can't be too tall. Kinda limited for options there.

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    I would use sealed enclosures. I like the lower/ smoother frequency response of them.

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    2 RESX12's in 2.0 cuft ported enclosures getting about 1600w would do the trick. How do I know? Thats what the last boat had and it would make ripples in the water. I would stand the box off the floor and downfire the ports. they will need to be about 12"x2.5" and 24" long for 32-34hz tuning from what I remember. I had 12 mids and the bass definitely could overpower them, just perfect! I would also mount your mids on your hard top to get the sound out like a wakeboard boat.

    I think you still have Daves # right

    EDIT, crap, I thought you had a hard top on that thing, nevermind, there's nothing you can do, just give up.
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    ....at the Speed of Sound SPL2K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2oSki2Fast View Post
    I would use sealed enclosures. I like the lower/ smoother frequency response of them.
    In a car yes but not in an open air environment like a boat. Ported is definately the best way to go and you dont want to tune it as low as you would in a car either. Needs to be somewhere around 40-45hz depending on the type of music you listen to mostly. If you tune lower than 38hz or so, you are just wasting energy that wont be audible in a boat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56cars View Post
    Not neccesarily better, just different. Ported boxes will have an additional 3 db output over a sealed box, theoretically. Bandpass is 6 db. However, the bass response is elevated to where the box has been ported to. So the bass response will be louder with a ported box but it is not as smooth as a response curve as a sealed box. May not matter too much depending on what music you listen to.
    The proted enclosure also has a 12dB per octave roll off. The sealed box will play lower due to its roll off of 6dB per octave. I would have an experienced box builder make the enclosure if you are going to go vented. They are more sensetive to variations in box size, port area and length.

    Also I have found through my experience that tuning the port for 30Hz tends to affer the best results.

    Most 12" woofers need about 2.5 cubic feet in a vented enclosure.

    Also when choosing a woofer a lower Qts means the sub will work better in a ported enclosure. Make sure the Qts does not go above 0.5

    Qts should be listed in the owners manual.

    Loaded down and ported down would be good. Better than both forward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SPL2K View Post
    In a car yes but not in an open air environment like a boat. Ported is definately the best way to go and you dont want to tune it as low as you would in a car either. Needs to be somewhere around 40-45hz depending on the type of music you listen to mostly. If you tune lower than 38hz or so, you are just wasting energy that wont be audible in a boat.
    I disagree with you, but to each their own. Shouldn't make a difference what musib you listen to with a properly designed enclosure.

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    ....at the Speed of Sound SPL2K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2oSki2Fast View Post
    I disagree with you, but to each their own. Shouldn't make a difference what musib you listen to with a properly designed enclosure.

    ok...let me rephrase that. To get the most out of your system, music preference should be taken into consideration when tuning a vented enclosure.
    Last edited by SPL2K; 06-13-2008 at 09:30 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thmper321 View Post
    Most 12" woofers need about 2.5 cubic feet in a vented enclosure.

    Also when choosing a woofer a lower Qts means the sub will work better in a ported enclosure. Make sure the Qts does not go above 0.5

    Qts should be listed in the owners manual.

    Loaded down and ported down would be good. Better than both forward.
    You're starting down that road of greek to me, but specs I have. The subs I will likely use have a Qts of .30, and the website says to give them 2.0c/f @ 33hz.

    http://www.reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sx

    Again, the only problem I think I'd have with the box loaded and ported down firing is size. I want this to be the base of my back seat, and if I make it too tall, the seat base will be too high off the floor. I want the people in the back to be somewhat encased in the boat, not sitting on top of it. This gives me roughly 13" from the floor to the top of the box.

    The speaker mounting depth is 6.5", so with 3/4" MDF on the top, that's already 7-1/4" out of 13. I guess that would leave 5" for the forward facing port - maybe that would work - but it shrinks my available cu/ft area.
    Keith-


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    ....at the Speed of Sound SPL2K's Avatar
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    Whats the max outside dimensions you have to work with?

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    Quote Originally Posted by STV_Keith View Post
    You're starting down that road of greek to me, but specs I have. The subs I will likely use have a Qts of .30, and the website says to give them 2.0c/f @ 33hz.

    http://www.reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sx

    Again, the only problem I think I'd have with the box loaded and ported down firing is size. I want this to be the base of my back seat, and if I make it too tall, the seat base will be too high off the floor. I want the people in the back to be somewhat encased in the boat, not sitting on top of it. This gives me roughly 13" from the floor to the top of the box.

    The speaker mounting depth is 6.5", so with 3/4" MDF on the top, that's already 7-1/4" out of 13. I guess that would leave 5" for the forward facing port - maybe that would work - but it shrinks my available cu/ft area.

    Keith, you can make the whole box to keep it off the floor. Just make it wider (the width between the sides of the boat) and have a slot ported enclosure built that side fires or down fires. The key is keeping the port inside the box. Either down fire the subs or front fire them.

    My subs and ports point forward but you might not want to have any openings facing forward in your type of boat.





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    Last edited by BOBALOO; 06-13-2008 at 09:39 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPL2K View Post
    Whats the max outside dimensions you have to work with?
    This guy will get you where you need to be but the total amount of space you have is the determining factor.

    The RESX12's need 2.0 cuft ea plus the port.
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