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About LinkBacksAnybody have experience with the brand RPM? I bought a motor (used) with RPM rods and crank , most of the rest of the motor is decent stuff-Ross pistons , Crane pushrods, Edelbrock etc. Just looking for some input. TIA
RPM rods and crank
Anybody have experience with the brand RPM? I bought a motor (used) with RPM rods and crank , most of the rest of the motor is decent stuff-Ross pistons , Crane pushrods, Edelbrock etc. Just looking for some input. TIA
Bottom of the barrel import stuff IMO. Probably fine as far as strength goes, but machine work on the two cranks I looked at (Probe Industries) was terrible and they were sent back. Same with the rods, but they're easy enough to correct.Originally Posted by 5sangers
JMO
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On the other side of the coin, I can state that I personally have knowledge of at least two big players in the marine engine business that have used them in the past.
I have not seen any of them for several years, but had no problems with them other than having to touch up connecting rods. My old school guy who does all my balancing used to comment that the cranks were good for "China stuff".
They are not jewels by any stretch. The rods have some minor nicks on the ridge of the beam like they were not handled well. They are in a 528 mopar that I would like to get through the summer AND my learning curve with. If I do something stupid and hurt a cheap rotator it wont hurt as bad as hurting a fresh 3 or 4 grand . Really sucks to have to work inside a budget.Thanks for the replies.
I had an RPM crank for my 496 that was about as beautiful as I've ever seen a crank....made my Scat crank look like junk. Balanced nicely, machine work was dead on, straight, etc. I think it's a crapshoot.
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The newer the RPM product is, the better it is. RPM, CAT, Star Galaxy, etc use the same offshore source for cast and forged crankshafts.
Given the products they've been offering these days, I'd say that RPM connecting rods and crankshafts may not be top-of-the-line but they certainly are bang-for-buck in the right applications. All new parts (regardless of brand) should be inspected prior to use and sometimes may require adjustment.
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Besides, where else you going to get a forged stroker FE crank for less that 2500.00?
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Besides, where else you going to get a forged stroker FE crank for less that 2500.00?
FORD FE 390,427,428 FORGED STEEL 4.375" STROKER CRANK | eBay
Well here...
Not many know what an FE is...
same crank
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I wish I could find the pictures...
The first thing I look at on a crank is the fillet radius. That tells me the whole story about the crank. If the fillet radius is nicely ground and sized, then I can move on to the next inspection, but if the fillet radius looks like someone did it with a rat tail file, there's no sense in looking any further. Very few import cranks have the fillet ground properly. It's usually a matter of "good enough", or total reject. This is one place where I find Scat to be ahead of everyone else with their white box imports. The RPM/Probe cranks I've seen were the worst and there was an Eagle that was sent back that wasn't much better.
In the madness of this world, know the Peace of God.
I don't care what name is on the crank, if its a 4340 crank, its the same forging.
The Shelby Engine Shop uses quite a few of F.E. cranks and most get returned. That means somebody else is going to end up with them. Their biggest fault with them is the thrust being to big. Some they fix with over sized King Bearing Max Flange thrust. If they can't make it work with a Max Flange then it goes back. Same goes for chattered and burnt looking fillets.
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