Thread:

My 350 Engine Build

So for a while I've been wanting to build an engine and decided to go with a 350 SBC. I've never built an engine before and frankly have little idea what I'm doing; however, I've always wanted to try so here we go. I purchased a book/dvd combo from Engine Building, Carburetor Tuning & Transmission Rebuild Video and DVD - Torque Specs, Engine Specs & Firing Order which will be my guide through this process. My goal for this engine is to do a very basic rebuild, put it in a vehicle (approx which it came out of), drive it for a few thousand miles, then sell it and move on to my next project and build something more fun. I don't want to spend much money on this first engine in case I screw the engine up I'm not out alot of money.

I was able to find an engine off of craigslist that I purchased complete for a good price (I think) complete that came out of a early 80's Chevy truck, so I'm thinking of doing like a early 80's suburban or something similar. The block is stamped 3970010 which I've read is a good block so we will see if I don't screw it up too bad. The first pics of the engine:

Gm hasn't used those exhaust manifolds since the '60s I don't think and and that carb looks like a Rochester 2bbl from the early '70s. Aside from the hei distributor and the blue paint, that doesn't look like it's out of a mid 80's truck

Looks like fun.. But you better start with a steam cleaner

Originally Posted by HPBoats83

So for a while I've been wanting to build an engine and decided to go with a 350 SBC. I've never built an engine before and frankly have little idea what I'm doing; however, I've always wanted to try so here we go. I purchased a book/dvd combo from Engine Building, Carburetor Tuning & Transmission Rebuild Video and DVD - Torque Specs, Engine Specs & Firing Order which will be my guide through this process. My goal for this engine is to do a very basic rebuild, put it in a vehicle (approx which it came out of), drive it for a few thousand miles, then sell it and move on to my next project and build something more fun. I don't want to spend much money on this first engine in case I screw the engine up I'm not out alot of money.

I was able to find an engine off of craigslist that I purchased complete for a good price (I think) complete that came out of a early 80's Chevy truck, so I'm thinking of doing like a early 80's suburban or something similar. The block is stamped 3970010 which I've read is a good block so we will see if I don't screw it up too bad. The first pics of the engine:

That's the best way to learn, ask questions if you don't understand something.

Those "rams horn" exhaust might be worth some money to a street rod guy. They are popular enough that there are aftermarket reproductions available, so don't just toss those out,, they may pay for part of your rebuild kit.

that power steering pump , thermostat by-pass and outlet look like something from a 3 ton or a school bus which could mean it's got a steel crank and or possibly a 327 . oh and ram horns won't fit a chevelle or camaro . like obnoxious said get it apart and see what you have .

Originally Posted by HPBoats83

In my original post I was thinking about doing a mid 80's suburban based upon the year of the engine. Now that I have found that it's older I am thinking of doing a Chevelle . On e-bay they have a few sets of those manifolds for under $50.00 so I am kind of thinking of just keeping them now to use on the Chevelle and trying to build this engine up to about 300 HP. It also has a 2 barrel carb on it right now so maybe I should switch that to a 4 barrel? How's that sound?

As far as the manifolds go - I have a whole pile of them. All of my '50s and '60s cars have since been replaced with either shorty headers (only where I have to), mid-length headers (preferred for my lowered cars), or full-length (best for torque) headers. RamsHorns WERE the best of the day, but compared to today's offerings - they are not worth putting back on ANYTHING OTHER than a box-stock rebuild. IF you put ANY performance upgrades in this motor, they will not allow full potential.

The reason is, the front and rear ports basically turn the exhaust flow through TWO 90-degree bends. Notice headers always have sweeping bends instead of just welding two pieces together 90-degrees to each other? ANY bends reduce flow and 90-degrees is about as restrictive as it gets. So, if there is even a mild-performance street cam installed, you will have some reversion on the corner cylinders. BTW, reversion is basically the exhaust "backing-up" into the port. It can be so bad with manifolds that you will see blackening on the bottom of the carburetor / back side of the throttle blade(s). That means exhaust is backing up into the intake / trying to blow out through the carb.

So, trust me, I have put a shit-load of cars together over the years and have learned a few of these KEY issues first-hand. If you are going to put ANY updated parts in the motor (nicer cam, bigger valves) then do yourself a favor and get some (even USED) headers or nicer manifolds (Sanderson makes some excellent cast ones).

Originally Posted by Canuc

that power steering pump , thermostat by-pass and outlet look like something from a 3 ton or a school bus which could mean it's got a steel crank and or possibly a 327 . oh and ram horns won't fit a chevelle or camaro . like obnoxious said get it apart and see what you have .

I agree 100% Its definitly truck. But the intake manifold screams school bus or heavy truck. If it has a steel crank and a 2 bbl, that will cinch it. If it does have a steel crank, throw the intake on E-bay as a heavy truck or bus intake. The 2 bbl restricted oval track guys eat those up.