Thread:

fuel pressure regulator and fuel log/ Does this look right?

I have a fuel log and Barry Grant fuel pressure regulator in the picture. This just does not look like it is plumed right. Should'nt the regulator be at the front of the fuel log on the inlet end? I just do not understand how the regulator would work on the back end of the log. Also it had a fitting for a return line but I have no provition to retun fuel to the tang so I pluged that hole. is this ok or is there another way to retun the fuel?
This is exactly how it was set up when I baught the whole intake and carb package. I looked it up and I belive it is a barry Grant diaphran bypass regulator prt#171021 or #171020/w idle bleed screw. Do not think it has a bleed screw. Can some one please tell me it it works in this configureation or do I need to swap it around.....H

It will only work that way with the return line functioning.
The reg bypass allows the log to be PSI regulated, with excess psi/ fuel being returned to the tank.
Personally, I would use it as it is and unplug that return and figure out how to get it back in the tank.

Would the return line have to be the same size as the inlet line feeding the log or could it de smaller?

It can be 1 size smaller, or in most N/A cases, a -6

If you have dual tanks, you almost have to tee back into the inlet to the fuel system. If you run the line back to 1 tank on a dual tank system, even with a balance line tee'd between them, you stand the chance of over flowing the tank with the return. Specially if the tanks are full at the time.

I plan on running my bypass back into the inlet side also, would you think a check-valve is necessary? I have a couple detroit diesel 3/8 high flow

check valves in my box, what do you think?

The plug in the regulator will cause the pump to put full pressure to the carbs! I just use a AN tee before the pump (inlet side) and ran a line from the regulator to the tee! Worked well! It is way better than a deadhead system IMO!

Originally Posted by Schiada 201

It was built as a fuel return system, you shut it off and changed the whole idea of a fuel return system to a deadhead system. the return system is the best to have and end your fuel system problems. There is a great article in Century performance web page if you don't understand it.

Never tried a bypass system, and not sure what defines the requirement for such a setup (but would like to!). I read the article (very good as you promised!), and have some observations and questions...

The writer of the Century performance web page seems to be addressing drag race systems with electric fuel pumps. In addition, the schematics appear to show the bypass ocurring before the carbs. The bypasses (I have seen) on boats occur at the extreme end of the fuel log.

Do the same points made in that article apply to mechanical pumps? And, how do the differences in the plumbing come into play?

Originally Posted by VDRIVERACING

I would like to learn more about this. Can you provide a link to that article?

Here you go Bill. This is pretty much every concievable fuel pump/carb plumbing diagram you will ever need. The 3rd diagram on the first page is pretty much like the OP's except the pump.
LINK: BG plumbing diagram 85

On this page the 3rd one is similar as well, again, except for the pump.

LINK: BG plumbing diagram 86

NOTE: Barry Grants stuff was pretty decent towards the end, and any of the problems it did have could be remedied easy enough. His pure shit customer service, his opinion that his cutstomers were almost too stupid to be working on their stuff, and his horrible business sense is what did the company in. He never built ANYTHING that was perfect out of the box, all you had to do was ask him.
But this site is pretty spot on in the tech department, and there is alot of good info on here. If there is any thing you wish to save, download it now because this site won't be up forever. The man knew his carbs and fuel systems, he just didn't now how to run a business.