Thread:

Budget Ford 289

Originally Posted by husqy510

I just picked up a 65 Ford Falcon with a 289 off craigslist for next to nothing. Currently it's all stock with a 2 barrel and in need of a rebuild. The car has a manual trans and will be used for weekend cruising. My goal is do this whole project using parts found at swap meets, craigslist, etc... I already picked up a set of vintage 14'' torque thrusters with 205 70 tires, so it won't be getting much traction.

I want to see what kind of power can be made on a budget, but I know nothing about making power with these motors.

So lets hear it guys... How would you build this motor? What cam, intake, carb, etc.... How much power can you make with the stock block, crank and rods? What type of compression would you feel safe running with steel heads? Could you put together a motor with the stock heads, that would respond to a set of aftermarket aluminum heads down the line?

I'm not much into small blocks but IMO the stroker is the best way to make HP/Tq. I favor the 331" stroker over the 347 as the oil ring is not in the pin and is just an all around better combo, IMO. With all the good aftermarket aluminum heads available it seems to be more cost effective and better bang for the buck to buy a set of alum. heads. Stock iron heads are going to be expensive to get any decent power out of and with just the cost of machine work to freshen them, hard seat the exhaust and new valves the aluminum heads start to look alot better. The stock block is usually good to about 400 HP, more if you are dead nuts on your tune up. Building the SBF is almost as easy as building a SBC and priced about equal on most parts. I'd keep the compression ratio in the 9.5 to 10 to 1 area for a pump gas friendly engine.

Originally Posted by husqy510

Could you put together a motor with the stock heads, and that would respond to a set of aftermarket aluminum heads down the line?

Yes, you could possibly start with the factory iron heads and swap to aluminum later if you want.

What's the casting number on the cylinder heads? The 289 HiPo heads were mostly C5OE's and you have a 1965 289. There are earlier versions of the HiPo heads, too, and there are variations on intake valve size and chamber size among the different "early" 289 castings. Assuming you have the larger chamber head (of the two early chamber sizes), a 0.030" overbored 289 with flat tops would net you about 10:1 compression ratio. With the big valve and some port blending, you could build yourself a pretty nice street cruiser, those 1965 Falcons are lightweight.

Get the casting number of the cylinder heads.

LO

I built 6 or 7 60-65 Flacons when I was in High School. Each one recieved the funds from the last one sold. The 65 was my favorite by far. Depending on the power level you're looking for, the quick and dirty would be to find a reasonably low milage 85-93 5.0 roller motor, and either keep the EFI of swap to a 4 bbl on a Edelbock Performer.
I doubt your heads are HiPo's considering it is a 2bbl. Don't think about stroking that block beyond 3 inches)stoke 302/5.0) the cylinder don't extend far enough onto the lower end to properly support the piston, even with the 331/3.25 stroke. If you're concidering a stroker, find a 302/5.0 block, and I would still limit it to a 331/3.25 stroke.

If you looking to just bump the existing engine, I would go with flat top KB hyper pistons, and WELL preped heads or aftermarket, alum or iron, and be conservative on both. Nothing kills a good running 289 like too big of a cam or too big of a port. I like them in the 265* adv/215 @ .050 range A good valve job and some modest bowl work on the stock heads can handle a warmed over 289 fairly well. You have to be a little cautious with the upper end stuff. Most of it is geared toward larger CID and higher RPM. The lower end of the 289 isn't all that strong, specially the rods, and you just don't want to have to spin the hell out of it to make power. Build it for mid range and you'll love the thing.

Originally Posted by husqy510

Thank, i will get those numbers when I pull the motor in a few days. My old machine shop is out of business. Any recommendations for an affordable shop in socal. Thanks

Yes, I'm pretty certain I can hook you up with a quality, value-priced engine shop that can recondition your engine into a solid runner.

gn7's right about the chances of the HiPo heads. Also, they most certainly will not be the later emissions-related heads (C7) and will most likely be C5 or C6 standard heads, either of which will suit your initial needs just fine with a little rubbing.

I'll PM you with info.

LO

Originally Posted by gn7

Depending on the power level you're looking for, the quick and dirty would be to find a reasonably low mileage 85-93 5.0 roller motor, and either keep the EFI of swap to a 4 bbl on a Edelbock Performer.

Hey husky this is a very good suggestion by gn7. Mustang 5.0's are as common as was the VW Bug when I was a kid, and so 5.0 roller engines are all over the place for cheap. So another option you have is to find a 5.0 core for a buck-and-a-half and freshen it up. That's what the SoCal shop does regularly; these 5.0 roller engines are usually in such good shape that it's simply a matter of a hone, rings, bearings, RV cam, roller chain, valve grind, and a new aluminum carb intake (only sometimes do they need a bore). The blocks are stronger than those from the 1960's, the engine is more modern overall, etc.

You might even consider finding a worn out 5.0 Mustang and harvest the 5.0/5-speed/8.8 rear end for the Falcon. I've seen that setup installed into a 1962 Falcon and I was considering it for my 67 Fairlane as well. Installing the entire power train is not as plug-and-play into the '65 Falcon as reconditioning your current engine, but if you have decent fabircation skills it ought not scare you. Otherwise going back to your original thoughts about rebuilding what you have, that's super easy plug-and-pay stuff.

Or...maybe you could freshen the engine in the Falcon to get your driver on the road and then build up a nice 5.0 engine at your leisure for that nicer engine down the road.

LO

The 88 engine as it sits will not drop into the Falcon due to the shock tower bracing. Its can be done with some fabrication, or you can grab a Edelbrock Performer and drop that on with a Holley.

If you do decide to drop in the '88 5.0 complete, let us know because there are some things you need to know for the fuel system, plus you'll need the computer and harness for it as well.
If you go with a 4 bbl on the 5.0, there are a few things you need to know, but they are pretty minor.
The car should already be equipped with a 8 inch rear end. Not the strongest, but strong enough with those tires uness you throw on some slicks. There are tons of 9 inch rear ends that bolt right into the Falcon. From 1958 Stationwagons to 1969/70 Mustangs and others. Setting the car up for a coil spring/link bars in a leaf spring car is a little involved. Works great, but you have to ask yourself if you really need it.

The Falcon, Mustang/Comet/Maverick chassis is one of the easiest chassis to work with out there. Ford used the hell out of it, and a huge number of parts are interchangable between them.

One of the coolest cars I build during that period was a 1965 Ranchero with all the running gear and suspension from a totaled out '65 Shelby 350 Mustang that had been wrapped around a tree. Wish I had never sold that thing.

Originally Posted by husqy510

Thanks a lot for the replies, I'm going to ditch the fuel injection, and bolt on rpm performer intake with a 650dp.

How hard is it to line up the shifter on the t5 to the stock trans hump? How about the clutch linkage?

The only thing you really need to convert the engine to a4bbl besides the manifold and carb is either a dizzy and Duraspark from a 1985 carb 5.0 or any dizzy from a non EFI 302/5.0 AND change the gear to a melonite gear. You can use a bronze gear but will have to keep an eye on it because it will wear. A dizzy from a 1985 5.0 will work if you can locate one, and it can be used to fire either the stock 1985 Duraspark box or a MSD box.

The shifter on the T5 will come up almost inline with the existing shifter, except it will be in the center of the hump instead of off to the side. You will have to patch the old hole and cut a new one. But it will be pretty close to the original spot, just slightly to the right.

Don't forget the late model cams are a different firing order from the 289/302.