Aluminum or Iron
Hey guys I have been wondering witch one is the best in a full race setup. I always figured that a aluminum block would be the way to go cause of the weight BUT some guys that I have talked with is tellin me that a Iron block is sumtimes the best way to go for several reasons other than weight . Just figured I'd try to get some of Yals thoughts.
The boat im gonna be running is a TPR Cheyenne race weight 380 to 400 lbs. and starting from scratch on the engine. Thanks for any info
WFLC
Which is best is subjective to desired goal.
In a sprint car weight is a major concern. Aluminum.
Do you think the weight is that important? I know it is a jetboat, so hard to make it run. HAHAHA
What is more important to you? Will varying temps at the starting line affect your et variance more than weight and more consistant temps?
Blown, or NA?
How much hp do you need to run for your piece?
Wags
Weight is huge in a Jet boat. The sooner that boat is moving forward and up on top of the water, the better the pump is fed and the quicker it's going to accelerate. All else being equal, I think the lighter the boat, the quicker that's all going to take place. I don't know if the engine will be as consistent with weather or water temp changes...something to consider, but if you're not brackcet racing IMO it's less of a concern. I think apples for apples, an iron block will make more power than an aluminum block, but I'm not sure the small amount of power you might lose would offset the benefit of the weight savings. I have heard pro's and con's about aluminum being too light on some of the super light boats like HotTub, but I don't see that as a problem in this hull.
Mike, I've been shakin' the trees out here for a lumi block, just to see what hits the ground.
In the madness of this world, know the Peace of God.
Temp is the number 1 thing that I'm hearing about a lumi block. Talkin with Jay, the prior owner, said the boat ran better with a iron block. And he ran PGJ.
I would like to run 9 sec class but in the KDBA as you know Steve the 10 sec is the best class to run, or where the money is anyways
And it will be a N/A engine with no power adders .. All mota!!!
And Steel I don't know what real light is, but the boat seems pretty light. I'm gonna get a weight on it as soon as I get a trailer weight
Last edited by TNYoungblood; 10-30-2011 at 12:00 PM.
WFLC
where you're going to run, temps won't be a problem. but you won't need the expense of an aluminum block to run 8s, 9s, or 10s.
X2. Iron block will probably be more consistent.Originally Posted by bp298
In the madness of this world, know the Peace of God.
Your 540 will run 10's in that boat all day long and could potentially run 9-0's.
"Light" is bare hull under or at 300lbs. I think I'd save the $$ on the 'lumi block and spend it in better places.
In the madness of this world, know the Peace of God.
Honestly I would use an iron block. IF you want to run the 8.0 the weight MAY(?) matter. If running the 9 to 10 class it certainly won't matter.
You should be able to run 9.0s all day long with a strong 540. 10's will be a cake walk. AND more cash to win. BUT more folks competing for the cash.
IMO for a bracket boat you need to do EVERYTHING POSSIBLE to ensure consistency. These guys in most classes are bad asses. They won't take it easy on you cause you are a new guy. Start with as few variables as you can, get your tune ups and race its balls off.
Wags
BTW, do engine temps matter?? IMO yes. But the guys without temp gauges say it doesn't matter. LOL
cut down
talk to Chris at B-1, i think he and Jordan cut some serious weight off the iron block that is in Jordans Place craft. maybe a machining diet for an iron block is the answer.
Get the grinder out Scotty boy
WFLC
Get the grinder out Scotty boy
I think we have a CNC program on the mill, but if not, we will!
In the madness of this world, know the Peace of God.
I've run 3 motors in my cheyenne that all made within 40hp of each other.
Iron block blower motor with super chiller
Iron block tunnel ram motor
And aluminum block with single dominator motor
The aluminum block engine kicked the shit out of the others by several tenths of a second in Et.
The times I've had the iron block in the boat it felt like I tossed the anchor out during the holeshot.
If u can afford an aluminum block then id get one. And there are easy ways to make sure it runs consistent and maintains temperature.
Were these using the exact same impellers, loaders, nozzles, shoe and ride plate angles and that pre loader thing? inducer or whatever you call it
Wags
Each engine had all of those variables changed at one point or another trying to get the most out if the boat. The half track times really tell the story. Like the others have said, get the weight out of a jet boat and it will run quicker.
I would not run an iron block again unless I was trying to make 1800hp or more. Only then would I want the stability of of iron. At my power level the weight savings is more important.
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