porting project- bbf ford
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porting project- bbf ford

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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    Default porting project- bbf ford

    Looking for some input guys- I just picked up pair of d0ve-c heads for my winter rebuild motor project. Previous owner had them redone recent so very few hours on them. I'm looking for some porting advice. I have never ported ford heads before and looking for someone who has. Paul feel free to explain the best gains without extensive rework too. I have access to flowbench so can check results. Should be fun project and will be posting results as we go.

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    Senior Member EdonShano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpm0414 View Post
    Looking for some input guys- I just picked up pair of d0ve-c heads for my winter rebuild motor project. Previous owner had them redone recent so very few hours on them. I'm looking for some porting advice. I have never ported ford heads before and looking for someone who has. Paul feel free to explain the best gains without extensive rework too. I have access to flowbench so can check results. Should be fun project and will be posting results as we go.
    PAGING STEELCOMP, PAGING STEELCOMP...PICK UP THE WHITE COURTESY PHONE PLEASE..

    SCOTTS YOUR GUY FOR HEAD QUESTIONS OR PORT WORK...HE'S ALSO A FORD FANATIC
    Formally know as UNFORGIVEN...

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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    Cool hopefully he can send some pics too. I can see the exhaust "bumbs" right in the exhaust port and can't imagine that's helping flow... Lol

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    Senior Member rogerroost's Avatar
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    I.m no expert,however i've been on this road before. The bumps can go,figure out the c/r your after(what pistons you have & what gas your going to use), & if your using the valves out of the d3 heads,I don't believe the (i think ) exhaust valves will work. I put mildly ported c9's on last year,

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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    Compression will be 9.5-9.6 with my pistons. Pump gas deal only. Not looking for all out port job, just what it takes to flow better than factory casting. Short turn radius tricks? Bowl work? Exhaust?

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    Foxwell Motorsports
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpm0414 View Post
    Compression will be 9.5-9.6 with my pistons. Pump gas deal only. Not looking for all out port job, just what it takes to flow better than factory casting. Short turn radius tricks? Bowl work? Exhaust?
    How many cubes and what rpm? Is this for a jet boat?
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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    460 CID, want around 5000-5500 rpm in jet. A impeller

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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    I picked up heads, comp cams rockers, and comp cams pushrods for 300 bucks. Not too bad of deal. Heads are fully assembled. Springs will be changed when I decide on cam. Something around 230-240@.050

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpm0414 View Post
    Compression will be 9.5-9.6 with my pistons. Pump gas deal only. Not looking for all out port job, just what it takes to flow better than factory casting. Short turn radius tricks? Bowl work? Exhaust?
    I will say that you need to be careful in the exhaust bowl as the water jackets run real close. Get with sleeper, he has been down this road and may be a great help. I will say that the dove-c head flow very well and a simple clean-up and gasket match should suit your'e needs. IMLAO M

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    Can't re-Member 28Eliminator's Avatar
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    I did a set of those heads years ago. SS radius was bad, and if i recall had plenty of meat in it to soften. Kinda having a little CRS, but I think we put bigger exhaust valves in them.. the exhaust side didn't flow worth a crap... You really need Scott to jump in here
    I'd agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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    The intake ports and valves are already big enough...plenty big for a 460 @ 5500. I'd just focus on cleaning up the caasting flash and get a quality performance 45* valve job and a 32* back cut on the intake valve will help with low lift numbers. The bowls need a lot of cleaning up and the chamber can use some work. The bump in the ex port definitely has to go and again, a good valve job is going to gain you more than anything with these heads. Do not lower the floor of the ex port! You can smooth the short turn and widen the port, maybe raise the roof some. There is a "boss" that runs llengthwise in the head across the top of the ex port and causes another little bump. Some of these were drilled on the DOVE heads, some weren't. If yours aren;t drilled, you can get rid of that bump as well. If your heads are drilled, you can put a piece of round stock through the hole the length of the head and port into that. As you're looking at the ex port, the right side- all the way into the bowl is what needs work.
    It's pretty hard to be real specific here on the internet, especially if you don't have a lot of experience with these. There's no need to "gasket match" the intake since it's already big enough but there is a funny ridge just inside the port that you can blend a couple inches in. The exhaust is where the effort will pay off but in the end, what you need are actual flow numbers and then spend a little extra on a cam that's ground for your combination. Getting your valve train gometry right will pay off too.
    HTH
    Last edited by steelcomp; 11-15-2011 at 07:15 PM.
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    Senior Member rpm0414's Avatar
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    Steelcomp! Thanks for help!! I will start tomorow on one set of ports and post up some pics to see if hitting the best areas. I saw that weird bump transition in the intake area as well. Any suggestions as to what shape of carbide to use??

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    Member 08VMax's Avatar
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    I gotta subscribe to this one! I just picked up a set of D0VE-C heads myself for my V-Drive. This thread has the makings and the timing of a good one!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpm0414 View Post
    Steelcomp! Thanks for help!! I will start tomorow on one set of ports and post up some pics to see if hitting the best areas. I saw that weird bump transition in the intake area as well. Any suggestions as to what shape of carbide to use??
    ON carbide, just a 1/2" or 5/8" oval should get you started.
    PLEASE! Protect your eyes and wear a dust mask at minimum (I wear a respirator when doing iron). Safety glasses aren't enough when grinding cast iron. A high speed iron chip will bounce off your cheek, then off the lense of the glasses, and right into your eye. Been there done that too many times. You'll end up in the ER with a doctor digging at your eye with a sharp object and then grinding the rust out with a dremel. Sound like fun?
    Either wear goggles or a face shield...or both.
    Take your time and don't do too much at a time. One thing to remember is to do things in steps...do a little to one port, then move to the next port and do the same, next port, do the same, and so on. It's a lot easier to keep things consistent that way rather than making a big change and trying to duplicate that on the next port. A pair of inside dividers is always handy to compare port to port. Use them in conjunction with a pair of calipers to measure the dividers. Take lots of nots and draw pictures of what you're doing if it helps.
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