fuel bypass help
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fuel bypass help

  1. #1
    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    Default fuel bypass help

    Im revamping my fuel sys. this winter

    what im looking for is an inline fuel pressure reg. 7/8psi that i have seen on some blower motor gas and alke

    it looks like a brass inline fitting non adj.

    from what i have seen it's eather a idle or hi speed bypass

    what im trying to do is from fuel pump Mallory 140 marine to a tee from tee to carb and to the bypass from bypass back to tank

    hope this makes sents

    Do you guys think this will work?????

    Thanks

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    Administrator Infomaniac's Avatar
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    If it's plumbed into a return line it is an Enderle valve. Same as all of the enderle valves you see on injector hats but setup for 7 PSI or whatever you request and shims to adjust it. . Call them they will fix you up. I use them quite a lot. Works perfect. Or I will fix you up with one if you don't buy direct from them.
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    Distinguished Member David 519's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    If it's plumbed into a return line it is an Enderle valve. Same as all of the enderle valves you see on injector hats but setup for 7 PSI or whatever you request and shims to adjust it. . Call them they will fix you up. I use them quite a lot. Works perfect. Or I will fix you up with one if you don't buy direst from them.
    Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    ....... David 519 is 100% correct........

    Quote Originally Posted by fuelinmyveins82 View Post
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  5. #4
    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    Thanks Info

    Thats it

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    Default Heat

    Quote Originally Posted by David 519 View Post



    Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?
    Deadheaded fuel will get hot in the pump when it can't move... Not only heating the pump vanes, but the gas!!! AND, you can adjust the pressure very closely by adding, removing shims behind the poppet spring...Very precision...
    Ray
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    Administrator Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David 519 View Post



    Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?
    What Moneypit said plus there is absolutely no device in the path of the fuel between the pump and carbs or whatever. It's much better to feed them more fuel than they need and bypass in parallel whatever is not needed. A lot easier on the pump.

    Been doing this for years and recommend it to everyone. I believe anymore there are some deadhead regulators that flow a lot but why use one? They are much more expensive than a smple bypass valve. Turbine engines use bypass systems. All EFI systems are bypass. I have a bypass valve from hell on the twin turbo.
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    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    You have been good to deal with in the past

    Im with ya on the best way to go... price, simple, clean, less heat and functional

    So You got a PM


    Dave Koehler has them for $49 or set to your psi for $60 thats cheaper then a good bypass reg.
    Last edited by SuperSoaker; 11-27-2011 at 02:39 PM.

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    Default Set it yourself...

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSoaker View Post
    You have been good to deal with in the past

    Im with ya on the best way to go... price, simple, clean, less heat and functional

    So You got a PM


    Dave Koehler has them for $49 or set to your psi for $60 thats cheaper then a good bypass reg.
    Very simple to make a "bypass pressure" checking system... A good low scale pressure gauge, (for carbs, mech injection is much higher), a "T" with a dump, (radiator petcock will work), and an air source with a regulator.... Bring pressure up with the petcock open slightly until the poppet pops, note the gauge... Make necessary changes, re test.... AND, you'll be working with a new valve that seals very well below desired dump pressure..... Have fun.... Get use to it, and step right on up to mechanical injection!!! Just add 1 or 2 more by passes!! And a cam driven pump...
    Ray
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    When we built the Dragstar and used 2 alcohol carbs. I took an enderle valve and removed the check valve and put a pill in it. It had a Ron's gold belt driven pump. I jetted the bypass so it had 7 lbs or so at idle and after a couple thousand RPM had about 15. After the needle seats are open it doesnt matter.

    I don't reccomend you do this but it's how versatile those Enderle valves are. You won't be using a pill but the valve will be threaded for one.

    I'm using one right now as a bypass on the Daytona to regulate the water pressure to the engine.
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    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    When we built the Dragstar and used 2 alcohol carbs. I took an enderle valve and removed the check valve and put a pill in it. It had a Ron's gold belt driven pump. I jetted the bypass so it had 7 lbs or so at idle and after a couple thousand RPM had about 15. After the needle seats are open it doesnt matter.

    I don't reccomend you do this but it's how versatile those Enderle valves are. You won't be using a pill but the valve will be threaded for one.

    I'm using one right now as a bypass on the Daytona to regulate the water pressure to the engine.
    I didn't think about that :<)

    is it all brass and S.S???
    Last edited by SuperSoaker; 11-27-2011 at 08:40 PM.

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    Just the brass valve body and a brass pill. No check valve.
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    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    Very simple to make a "bypass pressure" checking system... A good low scale pressure gauge, (for carbs, mech injection is much higher), a "T" with a dump, (radiator petcock will work), and an air source with a regulator.... Bring pressure up with the petcock open slightly until the poppet pops, note the gauge... Make necessary changes, re test.... AND, you'll be working with a new valve that seals very well below desired dump pressure..... Have fun.... Get use to it, and step right on up to mechanical injection!!! Just add 1 or 2 more by passes!! And a cam driven pump...
    Ray
    Thanks money that is a good way, but i already have a tester to set it with. I was just putting that info out there for others.

    I will be getting the $49 one and at that price i may get 1 for the water aswell :<)

  14. #13
    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    Just the brass valve body and a brass pill. No check valve.

    Im talking about the spring and shims w check valve set up

    or is the one your talking about different than the one Dave is selling ???

    Koehler-Enderle idle secondary hi speed Bypass Check Valves fittings

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