Thread:

fuel bypass help

If it's plumbed into a return line it is an Enderle valve. Same as all of the enderle valves you see on injector hats but setup for 7 PSI or whatever you request and shims to adjust it. . Call them they will fix you up. I use them quite a lot. Works perfect. Or I will fix you up with one if you don't buy direct from them.

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Originally Posted by Infomaniac

If it's plumbed into a return line it is an Enderle valve. Same as all of the enderle valves you see on injector hats but setup for 7 PSI or whatever you request and shims to adjust it. . Call them they will fix you up. I use them quite a lot. Works perfect. Or I will fix you up with one if you don't buy direst from them.

Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?

Originally Posted by David 519

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Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?

Deadheaded fuel will get hot in the pump when it can't move... Not only heating the pump vanes, but the gas!!! AND, you can adjust the pressure very closely by adding, removing shims behind the poppet spring...Very precision...
Ray

Originally Posted by David 519

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Ron, what's the advantage of a bypass over a deadhead style regulator?

What Moneypit said plus there is absolutely no device in the path of the fuel between the pump and carbs or whatever. It's much better to feed them more fuel than they need and bypass in parallel whatever is not needed. A lot easier on the pump.

Been doing this for years and recommend it to everyone. I believe anymore there are some deadhead regulators that flow a lot but why use one? They are much more expensive than a smple bypass valve. Turbine engines use bypass systems. All EFI systems are bypass. I have a bypass valve from hell on the twin turbo.

You have been good to deal with in the past

Im with ya on the best way to go... price, simple, clean, less heat and functional

So You got a PM


Dave Koehler has them for $49 or set to your psi for $60 thats cheaper then a good bypass reg.

Originally Posted by SuperSoaker

You have been good to deal with in the past

Im with ya on the best way to go... price, simple, clean, less heat and functional

So You got a PM


Dave Koehler has them for $49 or set to your psi for $60 thats cheaper then a good bypass reg.

Very simple to make a "bypass pressure" checking system... A good low scale pressure gauge, (for carbs, mech injection is much higher), a "T" with a dump, (radiator petcock will work), and an air source with a regulator.... Bring pressure up with the petcock open slightly until the poppet pops, note the gauge... Make necessary changes, re test.... AND, you'll be working with a new valve that seals very well below desired dump pressure..... Have fun.... Get use to it, and step right on up to mechanical injection!!! Just add 1 or 2 more by passes!! And a cam driven pump...
Ray

When we built the Dragstar and used 2 alcohol carbs. I took an enderle valve and removed the check valve and put a pill in it. It had a Ron's gold belt driven pump. I jetted the bypass so it had 7 lbs or so at idle and after a couple thousand RPM had about 15. After the needle seats are open it doesnt matter.

I don't reccomend you do this but it's how versatile those Enderle valves are. You won't be using a pill but the valve will be threaded for one.

I'm using one right now as a bypass on the Daytona to regulate the water pressure to the engine.

Originally Posted by Infomaniac

When we built the Dragstar and used 2 alcohol carbs. I took an enderle valve and removed the check valve and put a pill in it. It had a Ron's gold belt driven pump. I jetted the bypass so it had 7 lbs or so at idle and after a couple thousand RPM had about 15. After the needle seats are open it doesnt matter.

I don't reccomend you do this but it's how versatile those Enderle valves are. You won't be using a pill but the valve will be threaded for one.

I'm using one right now as a bypass on the Daytona to regulate the water pressure to the engine.

I didn't think about that :<)

is it all brass and S.S???

Just the brass valve body and a brass pill. No check valve.