Thread:

help on a blown fe deal

We make a spud & hex drive for the 429/460.





Don't know for sure if it can be bolted directly to the FE, but if not then it's probably the closest thing you'll find that might be easily modified. Maybe 058 knows the answer to this question. Most notably, your FE's cam dowel pin needs to be on a 1.375" bolt circle. Shoot me a PM if interested; I basically need a few dimensions from you and we'll figure out if this can work.

LO

Jeff, unfortunately I've had no access to the HFD phone line all day today. That's why I suggested PM. I see you've posted your number so I'll give you a call right now, and also tomorrow (Tues) if I don't catch you tonight.

Pretty sure the end of the cam is a lot smaller on the FE, and the pin's in a different location. Paul, do the three bolts for the drive thread into the timing gear on your deal?

Originally Posted by steelcomp

Pretty sure the end of the cam is a lot smaller on the FE, and the pin's in a different location.

The only thing you know aboutn Fe is that is the letters for iron in the periodic table.

Originally Posted by gn7

The only thing you know aboutn Fe is that is the letters for iron in the periodic table.

Listen gramps...



um....





I got nothin....

Originally Posted by steelcomp

Listen gramps...

um....

I got nothin....

ROFLMAO

Originally Posted by steelcomp

Paul, do the three bolts for the drive thread into the timing gear on your deal?

The two stainless steel parts are the spud and the hex drive.



Basically, the spud fits against the cam gear in place of a fuel pump eccentric, and the cam bolt goes through the spud so that the spud is thereby perfectly centered on the cam gear. Then the hex drive is bolted to the spud with the three black-oxided bolts in the picture. Two of those black-oxided bolts do not extend beyond the backside of the spud. However, the third (longer) bolt does and reaches into the cam gear's dowel pin receiver hole. This acts as a keyway and is the the fail-safe that prevents the assembly from spinning freely..

That's is why I am asking if an FE's dowel pin is on a 1.375" bolt circle. racer has noted that if the 429/460 spud drive fits flush against his FE cam gear, he might just drill a hole in his cam gear specfically for receiving that longer bolt. We make these with both a 7/16" and 3/8 cam gear bolt hole.

Originally Posted by LakesOnly

The two stainless steel parts are the spud and the hex drive.



Basically, the spud fits against the cam gear in place of a fuel pump eccentric, and the cam bolt goes through the spud so that the spud is thereby perfectly centered on the cam gear. Then the hex drive is bolted to the spud with the three black-oxided bolts in the picture. Two of those black-oxided bolts do not extend beyond the backside of the spud. However, the third (longer) bolt does and reaches into the cam gear's dowel pin receiver hole. This acts as a keyway and is the the fail-safe that prevents the assembly from spinning freely..

That's is why I am asking if an FE's dowel pin is on a 1.375" bolt circle. racer has noted that if the 429/460 spud drive fits flush against his FE cam gear, he might just drill a hole in his cam gear specfically for receiving that longer bolt. We make these with both a 7/16" and 3/8 cam gear bolt hole.

Two major problems I see with that design. One, I wouldn't use the cam bolt to ensure "perfect" centering of the spud, and second, one screw in the pin hole of the gear is hardly ascting as a keyway or, IMO, enough to prevent that assembly from spinning under load.
JMO

Originally Posted by steelcomp

Two major problems I see with that design. One, I wouldn't use the cam bolt to ensure "perfect" centering of the spud, and second, one screw in the pin hole of the gear is hardly ascting as a keyway or, IMO, enough to prevent that assembly from spinning under load.
JMO

Thanks to the advancements in technology there is so much overkill/over-construction built into general designs these days that sometimes the actual minimum requirements are lost in the equation. Not that this particular design is minimal; in fact I am aware of a couple of other brand 460 hex drive offerings that I personally feel are micky-mouse by comparison.

As far as centering the hex drive goes, fuel pump drives are supposed to be run with a fuel pump extention specifically so that there is some allowance of articulation for any circumstance that might bring a need for that articulation. That being said, we have end users of this hex drive that do, nevertheless, run their Enderle pumps plugged directly into the hex drive without the use of a fuel pump extention and there are zero problems. Of course and as is always the case, it's really up to the end user to do a competent job. Any incompetent or inexperienced engine builder can screw up the best of components. Ours is not only plenty precise for the application but it is also kept simple which makes it difficult to screw up during its install: just one bolt and it's centered as accurately as need be for the application.

As far as tieing the hex drive to the cam gear, the 1/4-20 bolt which extends into the dowel hole does it's job more than adequately, given the fuel pump pressure and loads brought upon mechanical injection systems and the fuel pumps used in those systems. These hex drives have pushed blown alcohol race cars well into the 200+ mph on three different continents and everything looks fine at disassembly. So to date the 1/4-20 bolt has already proven that it bears the load and will not shear (black-oxided bolts have very good shear strength compared to their counterparts; the tensile of these particular 1/4-20 bolts that we use is 145,000 psi). Should there ever be a need for more load bearing than what the design has already proven to withstand, then I suppose dedicated holes could certainly be drilled into the cam gear and accommodate all 3 of the hex drive bolts. We don't know of anyone to have had the need to make such a modification.

LO

Jeff, did you get the pics I sent?