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About LinkBacksSome moron broke off a #8 bolt in my aluminum intake manifold.
Any tips on drilling it out?
Carbide bits turn to crap in seconds.
Some Moron
Some moron broke off a #8 bolt in my aluminum intake manifold.
Any tips on drilling it out?
Carbide bits turn to crap in seconds.
Use an easy out or screw extractor. Otherwise take all the other bolts out and remove the manifold. Then you can grab the exposed threads with vice grips.
I have used Hanson cobalt reversed twist (left hand rotation) bits with constant flow cutting oil at a slow speed, a lot of times half way through the reverse rotation and heat build-up would back the bolt out. A $200,000.00 Bridgeport comes in real handy for this!!
Last edited by jorndy; 01-12-2012 at 02:19 PM.
This is a major problem! Grade 8 bolts don't drill well and if it broke on extraction then you have a seized bolt or gaulded threads! It is best to take it off and to a machine shop and have them do it in a mill! If the drill walks any it will only make it worse! JMO!
What is the bolt used for carb,t stat,dizzy,bracket?
Last edited by Widetrack; 01-12-2012 at 04:07 PM.
SOMEONE SAID YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU! SO,IM BURNING IT UP ONE GALLON AT A TIME!
WT
WFL Crew!!!
Dizzy hold down.
A mill sounds about right.
Was hoping not to have to take it off the car.
JB Weld?
The reliable way is too use a tap buster that a lot of machine shops have. It is a relatively low cost edm to burn the bolt out. Any edm will work the key word is low cost machine. If it is grade 8 you wont drill it out with anything other than a carbide drill.You have to hold carbide in decent drill press or mill, you CANT do it with a drill motor freehand 'cause it will snap. This is when the edm cost starts to look real good , because you cant drill out a carbide bit with anything.
If and when you get it out, use a stud next time! Good luck!
SOMEONE SAID YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU! SO,IM BURNING IT UP ONE GALLON AT A TIME!
WT
WFL Crew!!!
Have had a few EDM deals done here in town remove broken bolts out of two of our race blocks over the years. Sounds like a similar moron that did ours.LOL
Paul
You must have one of them there big motors. Using a grade 8 bolt for a dist hold down....WOW.
Originally Posted by OLD MAN ON THE LAKE
This is how we get frozen, water-corroded, decades old, seized broken bolts out of aluminum BBF front timing covers. They back right out like they were recently put in....
- put the bare part on a work bench and have some locking pliers (vise grips) nearby
- get out your tig and start building up a big mushroom on the end of the broken bolt. As you're doing this, the bolt will begin to turn red and the aluminum will be taking in the heat and slightly expanding from it
- stop welding, clamp your locking pliers around the big weld-mushroom that you've built up and back the bolt out.
Last edited by LakesOnly; 01-12-2012 at 04:58 PM.
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Paul, who did you take it to?
Thanks,
Tom
I have always welded a big tit( can I say this Rex) on the end of broken bolts. The heat helps loosen the crud on the threads. Use a Stainless Steel rod 300 series and after welding the big tit on tap it hard with a hammer, this also helps break up the crud. May have to do the process a couple times. While removing the bolt move it back and forth kinda working it loose, just don't try and spin it out unless it's not frozen in the thread. Been doing this ways for 40 years. Good luck... BBD
Need help finding this 1973 Sanger 18'6" bubble deck mahogany bottom and stringers I was living in Pomona when I sold her in 1979. Just wonder if she still exists
I wish I could remember. I think it was down off 48th st. and southern. Buzzz may rememexactlyclty who and were.
Paul
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