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Electrical

  1. #1
    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    I've got a starter issue.

    Had a bad alternator had it rebuilt, next time out not even a click out of the starter.
    Pulled starter and no go on the bench so had it rebuilt. Spins great on the bench.

    Turned it over slowly when I first got it back in now no go, click only.


    Batt reads 12.75 V fresh off the trickle charger drops to 2.2 on the meter when I hit the starter button. Hook the charger to the batt, it reads 16+V on the meter, hit the starter button, meter drops to 5+V, starter clicks and hums a little.

    Pull the starter again and send it to RB in Parker or?

    If I have have to pull it again I need a midget to help or the # of a good chiropractor
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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  3. #2
    Spiral out MikeF's Avatar
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    Make sure your ground is GOOD! (on the starter to block to batt)

  4. #3
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
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    What are the chances they battery is no good? Unless I'm reading this wrong everything points to the battery. It may not be able to hold a load as you Have seen with the volt meter.
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    If you have a volt meter available to use, you can trace the problem down. Obviously first check the voltage across the two battery terminals,, then check positive battery terminal to the ground connection on the block,, then the positive terminal to the case of the starter. If those are all pretty close, check the battery while someone turns the key,, then the other suggested test points,, then also test while the key is turned the negative terminal on the battery to the positive of the starter motor.

    If you don't have a meter available, physically check all connections. If you can get it to crank at all you can feel the battery cables for heat.

    If the battery is good, it's likely you simply have a bad connection(s)

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    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    When all else fails jump it off a car with known to be good cables.
    Hook directly to solenoid and ground to starter case...trigger the solenoid at the starter...if that works try the key, if that works install jumper cables one at a time to the battery......A failure to crank with any of those combinations will point you to the problem.
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    I had this same problem at Wheatland last year. Started in the pits, but wouldn't at tech. Checked the started and it was bad. Replaced the starter and it still didn't turn. Volt meter showed no votage when hit the starter button. Replaced the battery and it wized right up. Old battery was only 3 years old on a 5 year warranty.

    Tim

  8. #7
    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Well that turned out to be easy.
    Checked everything per Barry etc., went and grabbed a Hong Cong Frieght battery load tester and it says both batts bad.

    They were both holding a charge and were always kept on trickle chargers.

    Will an alternator going out fry an AGM to where it still reads charged?

    One is 11 months old.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

  9. #8
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 500BBC View Post
    Well that turned out to be easy.
    Checked everything per Barry etc., went and grabbed a Hong Cong Frieght battery load tester and it says both batts bad.

    They were both holding a charge and were always kept on trickle chargers.

    Will an alternator going out fry an AGM to where it still reads charged?

    One is 11 months old.
    One wire alternator? It could. But my money is riding on the trickle chargers killing em. No need to keep an AGM on a charger all the time, even a trickle charger. Maybe very low amp tender, but its still unnecessary. I have had a spare AGM that started a car after the battery sat for 1 1/2.
    Last edited by gn7; 01-14-2012 at 06:03 PM.
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    I would vote for overcharging. I purchased my first Optima a number of years ago and was told the worst thing you can do is overcharge one. There may be some battery chargers that are truly automatic and will shut off when a certain level is reached, but most trickle chargers continue charging their 1 or 2 amps regardless.

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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Not trickle, low amp tender. One of the Exide Orbitals I had lasted 7-8 years on the tender in the shed at the river when not in use. I replaced it just to be safe at that time, it was still good.

    It is a one wire alternator and I ran the battery down running without the alt before having it rebuilt.

    Ddin't even consider the battery as it's less than a year old and tested fine.........without load.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

  12. #11
    gn7
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    I am 99% convinced that if you run down a AGM battery not to allow it to recharge off the alternator seem fine keeping fully charged AGM up, but I think they hit a dead AGM to hard when recharging from verylow to dead. Put it on a AGM approved charger first and get it back up. If you did recharge it on a battery charger, was it approved for AGMs?
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