Thread:

engine break-in

Well i just got the short block assembled for my 509 project. When its all done what do you recommend for engine break-in procedures. RPM, time, oil for first go round, change to what oil after that? Its a N/A 509 cid max 5500 rpm or so, 9.8CR Thanks, Dave

Originally Posted by freakdave

Well i just got the short block assembled for my 509 project. When its all done what do you recommend for engine break-in procedures. RPM, time, oil for first go round, change to what oil after that? Its a N/A 509 cid max 5500 rpm or so, 9.8CR Thanks, Dave

Dave, As I am sure you know, every engine builder is going to have his opinion. This is mine:

First of all,,I have a rule: "If you treat a new motor like a baby, its gonna be a baby it's whole life". IMO this is true within reason.

I would start with a good straight 40 wt oil or 20/50with a lucas stabilizer.......I would put 8-10 fairly NORMAL hours on the motor with a few performance bursts mixed in with an air/fuel meter in place to make sure the air fuel ratio is right and the motor is not running to rich/lean. I would do this within the very first hour to make sure the tune is right on,,,,,,,,,,,,,pretty critical IMHO. I certainly would not want to take it out and run over 5000 rpm for minutes on end for the first 10 hrs. I would then do an oil change to the exact same oil. At 20 hrs you have a choice to make with regard to oil. I really like synthetic oil. I am currently working with ENEOS racing oil on their 0w50, which is what they run in the fastest formula one race cars from Honda/Toyota. It's not available for marine yet. IN the mean time, I would run Mobil 1 15w50 in your motor after 20 hrs. There is a very good possibility your engine will develop small leaks. Maybe not. Although its pretty normal for an aftermarket non-production engine, but you gain performance and minimize internal parts wear. Hopefully this gets you started............

Hey Dave, Gary is dead on, every custom built motor that I have done or had done, the devil in me can't do the break in rules...just like Gary said run it normaly and a few short burst won't hurt. Change your oil after a couple of outings about 8 to 10 hours, if you see a small leak, don't worry it's normal after a few heat cycles though, check all your conections...(Steve will do this) and then let it eat. I think you will be happy, just remember clean oil and filters are alot cheper than a new engine and always do a pre boating check before each outing...finding a little problem before going out can solve a much bigger problem just a few hours later...On another note when are you going to get a chance to come down, now that Ike and Gustof are gone???

i think i plan on breaking the engine in at the wet dyno over at Full Throttle Marine. Thanks for the info on the engine break in and oil recommendations.

Might wait till all the debris and trees clear out of the water! Hope to make a trip soon. Things are crazy around here. 2 of my kids bdays coming up and of course we have to have some kind of theme party at our house according to my wife. i think i have to dress up as something?

Maybe you could dress up like this?

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...56&vt=lf&hl=en

that was probably my drunk bro-in-law in the bearsuit!

now i have to save for the heads. do i go with AFR or canfield? i have a poished victor junior and a demon 850. do you like the morel .300 tall lifters for the dart big m taller bosses? how bout the rockers? go with the crane golds?

i saw some AFR sbc CNC heads at the machine shop. they looked like crap. my machinist was not impresses whatsover. they had numerous lines in the intakes from the cnc. no work whatsover trying to polish them out. he said go with the canfields. what ya think?

All I have to say is................AFR makes good heads, but this is your project to be honest. I would not sweat CNC lines in the ports either, just my opinion. You should build it up the way you want it. Too many opinions gets too confusing.

Fair enough. Another question. Painting engine block. My machinist is a black block paint only type of guy. Me, i like the House of Kolor TruBlue Pearl. It is available in aerosol can along with the white pearl base and clearcoat for a 3 part painting. Durable enough for engine block? Heat? How many coats, etc. Thanks. BTW, where are you a fireman at? Me, here in Austin Texas. Here is a link: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/show...6-oz-can-prl02

I too am a black block guy. They stay nice for a long time. Colored blocks look very cool IMO when they are on the engine stand, but after some time in the boat, they can be hard to keep nice looking. Everyone has their way of doing it I don't see any heat being an issue, but the paint will chip/flake off in spots, and it becomes really hard to fix those chips and make them look good. BTW, I am a fireman in Ventura County, CA.

Originally Posted by freakdave

Fair enough. Another question. Painting engine block. My machinist is a black block paint only type of guy. Me, i like the House of Kolor TruBlue Pearl. It is available in aerosol can along with the white pearl base and clearcoat for a 3 part painting. Durable enough for engine block? Heat? How many coats, etc. Thanks. BTW, where are you a fireman at? Me, here in Austin Texas. Here is a link: http://www.midwayautosupply.com/show...6-oz-can-prl02