sea strainer ?????
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sea strainer ?????

  1. #1
    Senior Member I DIG IT's Avatar
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    Default sea strainer ?????

    Gary I need to install a sea strainer and a pick up of the back of the boat for my innercooler for my whipple. Do you run all of this strait in and out?? or do you add a press relief valve befor or after the strainer?? This pick up will just be for the innercooler. I didnt know if you just install the pick up of the back of the boat and run it striat to the sea strainer then strait out of the strainer to the innercooler??? Or do you need more parts in the middle?? is this sufficient for the innercooler? Enough water or not enough water?? Enough water press or not enough water press??? How do the pros do it

    Thanks

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    TPI
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    IDIGIT,

    I am not sure how the PRO's do it, but I will tell you how I do it.

    In a nutshell, you go in and out with -12 lines. You need to make sure that you do not make your pickup so deep that it causes drag. A throughhull pick up works best. They sell them through Teague and other dealers. I like to make the leading edge even with the bottom of the boat and the trailing edge approx 1/2-5/8" below the boat. It will forcefeed water as the boat is underway. You do not need to flow water through the I/C at an idle(although some guys like too). Once under way, the water will flow in through the pick up, to the strainer to the I/C inlet to the I/C outlet to the dump out the side of the boat. It should be on the drivers side where you can look back and see it flowing. Dont worry about pressure. A good amount of water will lower the inlet fuel temp and allow the motor to run just right. The pics attached show a double dump with the bilge and intercooler coming out of the same dump. The other pic shows the stock Whipple transom pickup being utilized and cut to length. You need to make sure that you place the pickup in a place that picks up water, but does not interfere with the path of water to the propellor. If you are running a 15 1/4" prop, you will need to be at LEAST 8" off of the keel on the port side,,,,,,,,,,,,not too high though.
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    Last edited by TPI; 02-11-2008 at 07:56 AM.

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    Distinguished Member 92562's Avatar
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    Here's a few pics of my set-up as recommended by Gary. You should have seen the look on the wife's face when I went at the "new" boat with a 1" hole saw!


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    TPI
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    Thanks Rob,

    That is exactly the best way to do it(IMO). There are other ways,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but I have had really good results with this method. This is the exact way I feed my Howard 28 Bullet intercooler,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,exactly like Robs pics.

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    Thank you Rob and Gary. Rob how far in from the back of the boat did you go. Gary said to be at least 8" from the keel but how far from the back inwards?? And what do you think about the 90 elbow on the back of the boat instead of the bottom of the boat. Do they work just as well??? I think that I would rather drill a hole on the back of the boat than the bottom. But I also want to do what works well


    Thanks again for the info and the great pics!

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    Also why the port side. I was going to go starbord just because i had more room to mount the sea strainer on that side?? Once again thanks.

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    TPI
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    The kit comes with the transom mount,,,,,,,,,,,,it works fine if positioned properly. I really like the thru hull design thru the bottom better. Its cleaner looking and works well also. When mounting the thru hull(through the bottom of the boat) you could end up 10-12" out from the keel and 24" forward from the transom(roughly). There are several factors, 1. Is there any steps that are going to interfere with water flow to the pick up? 2. Are there any strakes that are going to interfere with the pick up? 3. Are you clear of the trailer bunks(Dont laugh, I have seen it done!). I like where Robs is, On the inside of the strake. Thats a good spot. Its not real rocket science, just make sure you can get good water to it, and that you do not hang it too deep into the lake!

    You can put it on either side, they just usually end up coming out on the starboard side so the driver can look back and see the flow. You can put it all on the starboard side, you will just need more -12 hose.

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    I'm probably 18" from the transom notch and 10" off the keel. The pick-up is on the port, the strainer and dump are on the stbd.

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    Thanks again guys for all the help. I'm getting real antsy for SUMMER! I think Im going to get started next week

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by I DIG IT View Post
    Thanks again guys for all the help. I'm getting real antsy for SUMMER! I think Im going to get started next week

    Good luck with the install


    John M

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    Senior Member KineticoH20's Avatar
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    How much would it cost for a shop like TPI to install the Whipple and sea strainer?

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    TPI
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    Generally speaking,

    TPI charges about $2200 to install a standard Whipple kit on a 525. Its VERY tedious, and there are a bunch of steps that must be done correctly for it to last. They do last a VERY long time when they are done right and taken care of. Most of the time there are other fees incrued at the time of the upgrade, such as:

    Boost and Fuel Pressure gauges, Added to dash(mechanical, so the hoses need to be secured to the gunnel all the way to the motor, sometimes this means removing seats and side panels).
    Fuel Lines, Do not come standard with the kit, do to the various lengths associated with different boats. Fuel lines are extra.
    Sea Strainer,Also a good idea, at least for the intercooler. Extra charge
    Lab Finished prop, You will want one
    Interior/hatch mods, Another added labor charge if necessary
    Upgraded aeroquip hoses, not necessary but it looks very nice
    O2 bung placement and lake test,TPI now installs an Oxygen sensor in the exhaust on ALL new/upgraded motors and lake tests before final delivery with the customer. I charge approx $100 for the Stainless bung to be welded into the tail pipe, but the lake testing part of the installation is included(no charge). Customer buys gas and lunch

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    Distinguished Member 92562's Avatar
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    For what it's worth $2,200 is a bargain! I realize I am not a "pro", but my install took several weeks of planning and parts acquisition plus 2 full days of labor. I started at 7:00am on Saturday and fired the motor at 4:00pm Sunday (not including interior mods & belt guard fabrication). If it weren't for my masochistic narcissism, I'd have paid $2,200!

    ----Rob

  15. #14
    Ultra26 # 1
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92562 View Post
    For what it's worth $2,200 is a bargain! I realize I am not a "pro", but my install took several weeks of planning and parts acquisition plus 2 full days of labor. I started at 7:00am on Saturday and fired the motor at 4:00pm Sunday (not including interior mods & belt guard fabrication). If it weren't for my masochistic narcissism, I'd have paid $2,200!

    ----Rob
    Rob, I had to laugh, as I fully understand

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