Thread:

22 Daytona setup

Numerous brands out there, Overtons, West Marine has them. NSF

Where do you have the tabs set in comparision to the bottom of the boat?

Have you tried running them in different positions? Because they're mounted over the tunnels you should try running them level with the bottom of the boat if you haven't already. I wouldn't suggest that setup for a sponson mounted trim tab, but being over the tunnel, at higher speeds your controlling air flow, so it shouldn't put the nose down too much. It might do the trick. Just be cautious and make sure to feel the boat out before going out and running 100 mph.

Originally Posted by PLACECRAFT20

I have an 2003 22 Daytona with 496HO. The boat runs a constant 80mph and I have seen 82mph on a couple of times with a labbed 28 bravo. The boat has a High X dimention and is very hard to plane. I added Dana fixed tabs last year to cure a porpoise problem and it worked but did not help the slow speed. I was told there is a fin that you add to the bottom of the drive similar to the ones on a fishing boat to help planing and low speed porpoise.
Have you tried these and do you sell them?
I am going to add a whipple and would like to cure the problem before I have props done again.

Here is a pic of my boat running. I have the plate on my drive. This is the same one that others have mentioned on DCB's. They call it a Whale Tail. I would call Teague Custom Marine. Bob put this on my baot when he was doing a bunch of prop testing with my boat. This is different than those Air Foils you see at overtons, etc. I can say this has made a big difference in planing time. You can see in the pic what it looks like.

Thanks guys,
I will call Bob on the whale tale.
Hey Dana, when you guys sent my fixed tabs out you sent me the long ones instead of the short ones in the picture. Are thses correct for my small boat? That is why I wanted to be carefull about setting them level with the tunnel.

Generally speaking the tunnel tabs would be purchased per the width of the tunnel. Our single turnbuckle units are for 12" and smaller wide tunnels and the dual turnbuckle units are for 14" and wider tunnels. The length change just comes naturally with a bigger plane.

Every boat reacts different to changes. There's a hundred variables, x-dimension, type of drive, engine placement, HP, boat weight, prop style, etc.. There is no one answer to this inquiry. That's exactly why tunnel tabs are made with adjustment.

As previously stated, take caution in changes, I wouldn't go out and blast 100 mph pass without feeling the boat out.

The bottom line is if the boat is still hopping, the nose is still driving up, so you can afford to put a little more down pressure on the nose. PLEASE READ CAREFULLY "A LITTLE". These types of problems need to be addressed in small incriments.

If I were in your shoes, I would go down to 1 degree, run the boat, document your changes. IF necessary go to level with bottom of boat and try again.

As mentioned, these tabs are above the tunnels, at higher speeds they're only controlling air flow. They are not in the water. Alot of times, a continuance of the bottom of the boat (being level) will solve the problem.

All big Eliminators that run our MT4800 tabs actually benefit on top end speed from slightly lowering the tab into the tunnel at high speeds. Packing the outgoing air from the tunnel provides some tail lift and improves top end performance.

Again, every application is different. I wouldn't spend another dime on any other products at this time. I think you have the solution already mounted on the boat. You just need to spend a few hours on the lake and do some fine tuning.