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Blown injected e85

14K views 69 replies 19 participants last post by  ICDEDPPL 
#1 ·
Who all is running a roots blown, hat injected, e85 setup? Even with years of popularity and success, I still can't find much info on blown injected mfi setups on e85. And yes, efi and turbos are better, but I love the old school blown injected deal
 
#3 ·
It shouldn't be a problem.
I run a roots with e85 and carbs, but it certainly shouldn't be any different than any other fuel, other than getting the ratio correct.
Keep in mind that e85 is used in automobiles coming from Detroit, and other places that are just conventional cars.
It looks like it would be easier than Methanol, other than many people have worked out the kinks to using that over the years.

It's just another type of fuel.
You'll like it.
 
#9 ·
I dyno'd my 11:1 n/a 540 on e85 and picked up over 30hp and the torque curve was super flat. Good stuff

My next build will be a blown injected, non-intercooled, iron headed, 500+ inch deal.
I haven't decided on bore and stroke yet. I'm going to be using some Engine Quest iron heads and will choose the bottom end based on their flow capabilities. More than likely going with an 8-71. My goal is a large tuning window, a mild tune, low maintenance and longevity. I don't think 1,100 is unrealistic.

8-71, no idea which intake, 80a pump, bug or bird, all new and flowed by GORR or Good Vibrations or ? New Dart block 4.500 bore, undecided on deck height. New blower crank from Callies, Lunati, Crower, or ? undecided on stroke. Good steel rods. Good blower pistons, undecided on compression.

Thoughts?
 
#49 · (Edited)
Since no one replied to you, I'll give it a stab. The fuel system (tank fittings, supply hoses, pump, etc.) needs to be large enough, as you'll use at least 30% more than you would on gas. Also, the carbs will have to be modified or if purchasing new carbs, there are several choices of new e85 carbs from Holley and Quick Fuel. With that being said, you'll be able to run more boost and make more power than you would on pump gas
 
#16 · (Edited)
So, this is a guy I work with. I talk to him daily. The ONLY issue he has had is MAINTENANCE TO CARBS.

An engine is an engine. It is not a secret. You can run more compression..... etc.
CARB MAINTENANCE.... He occasionally drives the truck. He does NOT use a fuel additive like pro blend. I have encouraged it. But, he bought a cheap Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner to clean metering blocks.
That is HIS only issue.
As soon as it starts running crappy.... clean carbs...runs its ass off again.
Wags
 
#20 · (Edited)
Without starting a pissing match, what are y'alls short block recommendations in regards to stroke and deck height using these Engine Quest 360 iron heads and the other info I previously provided. I'm pretty sure I'd like to do a 4.500" bore.

CH454B = GM 454 HEAD RECT PORT 360 INTAKE RUNNER WITH A 2.300 INTAKE VALVE EXHAUST 1.88, 11/32 DIA STEMS. BRONZE GUIDES. 24 DEGREE HEAD

TESTED AT SEA LEVEL AT 28”*ON A SF1020 BENCH

********INTAKE *****EXHAUST

.100 ***77.7 *********72.9

.200 **141.5 *******128.3

.300 **209.4 *******169.9

.400 **271.9 *******206.2

.500 **325.6 *******228.1

.600 **359.4 *******251.2

.700 **371.2 *******268.4

.800 **375.7 *******278.9

These are out of the box flow numbers. From what I understand there are a couple of places that can really make these heads perform, but I have not checked their porting prices yet. The main reason that I want to try these heads is because you just can't beat the bang for buck on these

Keep in mind I don't need a high revving motor here. Just a maintenance friendly, long lasting, mild tune deal
 
#22 · (Edited)
That head has a lot of potential but will cost $$. Why an iron head? You can get an aluminum head that out flows those heads by a mile and make plenty of power right out of the box plus, you don't need a head that big to make good power. For a blower engine your best bet is to start with bare castings and build a set of heads. If you have an 8-71 then you don't want to get too carried away on cubic inches and cylinder heads. I'd build a 509 (4.50 x 4.0), start about 10:1 static, keep the heads in the 320-330cc range and go form there.
 
#23 ·
I would agree with Scott about the need for the 360cc heads. If you wanted to stay with the iron heads I would go with the EQ 320 heads or the Dart 308 heads. I would also stay with a moderate stroke. 4" would be just fine, and you can let the blower do the work for you. As you increase the stroke (as a result the cubic inches) the blower either needs to be spun faster or you need a bigger blower to keep up with the engines demands. Keep it simple and you may be surprised with how good the results are.

I like iron heads as I was able to keep more consistency when bracket racing and the engine performance was not as dependent on engine temp. There are some AWESOME aluminum heads out there, but I still like the durability of iron. But that is just me.

Paul
 
#24 ·
The previous posters have given very good advice, however if you are starting fresh, I'd go with a longer stroke, but you would need a larger blower.
A longer stroke only costs a little more, and a larger blower doesn't cost much more either.
However,if you already have any of those pieces lined up, or have access to them, your original concept is a very good one.

Many of the parts only cost a little more, but usually other parts are needed to match, often costing a little more also.
The little more can end up costing quite a bit more totally.
A "combination" is the seceret word.
Good luck
 
#26 ·
I don't have a blower yet and I'm not opposed to running a larger one. I was thinking in terms of not having to run an offset distributor or mag. The iron heads was for cost savings and durability (I run in brackish water).

I don't have any parts for this build yet. I could go with smaller heads or maybe the 360's on a 540-572 tall deck with a bigger blower?

Loving the input guys!
 
#30 ·
I have also been kicking around the idea of running an Electromotive Xdi distributorless ignition, in which case blower size shouldn't matter. I already have a data logger.

I guess I should've started this thread a little differently and just asked what ya'll would build for a blown injected e85 deal from the ground up
 
#45 ·
I use a Indy blower manifold on a tall deck BBC with an MSD Crab distributor and a 14-71 Blower shop Blower.
No clearance issue at all, and by removing the replaceable parts (rotor), the distributor can be removed without removing the blower.
Using a 90* drill, the motor can be primed.

The Crab distributor does requires use of a crank trigger.

Motor vehicle Engine Vehicle Auto part Car
 
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