Blown 489 BB Chev

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 08:07 PM

Finally going to take the time to post some pics on the blown 489 I'm building.
The engine is as folows:
Mk IV BB Chev, four bolt, + .030
Eagle 4.25 forged crank
Probe 6.385 H beam rods
Probe SRS forged flat tops w/ JE rings
Clevite H series bearings
Rollmaster timing set
Romac Balancer w/dual keyways
Custom hyd roller, Morel lifters
Stefs aluminum pan, Melling pump (supplied w/the pan)
Canfield 310 heads w/ severe duty valves, hyd roller springs and Ti retainers,
Crane gold rockers and Canfield stud girdle. Heads were done here in my shop...they came with guides and seats unfinished. 5 angle intake valve job, radiused ex, bowls blended, chambers CNC'd by Canfield. Heads flowed in the 360/290 range @ .800. Decent for a simple bowl blend. Ports were untouched.
Blower is a BDS 871 package w/ (2) 850 Holleys prepped by AED. We'll see how that goes.
Ignition will be MSD small dia. dist w/ Crane HiFire 6 w/ rev limiter.

Block prep...remove all the casting flash and blend all sharp edges. Normally I do this before machining. Block was fully machined on a CNC and the final bores were honed on a new Rottler hone. Mains were also aligned. Everything on the block checked dead nuts.

Before:

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 08:12 PM

after:

Shaun · 10-14-2008, 09:04 PM

Wahoo, finally another build thread.!! Aparently me and steel are the only ones who like to post out builds (in my case build)

Scott, looking forward to seeing every detail!

hotrod56cars · 10-14-2008, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaun

... Scott, looking forward to seeing every detail!

X2. What work was done where the oil filter adaptor goes and why? Thanks.

Shaun · 10-14-2008, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrod56cars

X2. What work was done where the oil filter adaptor goes and why? Thanks.

He was removing casting flash and blending sharp area's, my guess here is that he did the same for a couple reasons... Better flow, less hp required by the pump (increase probably so small it wouldnt even matter) but more importantly my guess is that removing the shape edges from this areas reduces the risk of having one of those peices break off and run a muck in the engine! Just my guess, i'm no expert!

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 09:37 PM

After a thorough cleaning with solvent and then hot soapy water I was ready to set the crank and check the thrust. Mind you by this time, I've gone through two different sets of main and rod bearings to get my clearances. The Eagle crank wasn't very consistant from journal to journal, but I finaly settled on what I had.

The cam is next. This is a Bullet steel roller with an iron gear.

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrod56cars

X2. What work was done where the oil filter adaptor goes and why? Thanks.

I blend all the sharp edges in the oil passages and try and help the flow in the direction it's going. Just helps the oil flow easier, helps keep oil temp down, just makes a happier engine.

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 09:47 PM

NOrmally I do all the mockup and measuring before the final assembly, but in this case, I assembled as I went. Since this is a relatively mild longblock, I didn't anticipate any problems. Of course, that usually bites you in the ass. We'll see.

Here I stick a piston in the hole and check the deck height. I do this with no rings.

Then I degree the cam at the lifter. I needed to make a 2* adjustment here to get the intake c/l at 112*. It actually ended up at 113.5, but with a little chain stretch, it'll be closer to 112.

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaun

He was removing casting flash and blending sharp area's, my guess here is that he did the same for a couple reasons... Better flow, less hp required by the pump (increase probably so small it wouldnt even matter) but more importantly my guess is that removing the shape edges from this areas reduces the risk of having one of those peices break off and run a muck in the engine! Just my guess, i'm no expert!

All good reasons.

steelcomp · 10-14-2008, 10:28 PM

At this point, the rings have been gapped, I've done a liquid measure on the piston dome (sorry I didn't get pics of that) and I've assembled the rack of pistons. Once I'm convinced everything is ready to go together, it's time to paint.

rIVERtRASH · 10-14-2008, 11:03 PM

Thanks for sharing this build!

What kind of paint did you use?

71hallett · 10-15-2008, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rIVERtRASH

Thanks for sharing this build!

What kind of paint did you use?

And who used it for you?

71hallett · 10-15-2008, 05:06 AM

Hey Steel, whats your take on the ring location on these? I cant say I like them much on an a/n deal....maybe its just the srp pistons I shouldnt like...?

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 06:45 AM

Quote:

What kind of paint did you use?

Just NAPA spraycan gloss black engine paint. It got a couple coats of SEM Prime first.

Quote:

And who used it for you?

Ouch...that wasn't nice.

Quote:

Hey Steel, whats your take on the ring location on these? I cant say I like them much on an a/n deal....maybe its just the srp pistons I shouldnt like...?

Some guys really don't like these pistons, but I didn't see anything terrible, just not an expensive piston. Rings were far down enoug to not worry me. Expansion groove between top and second ring.
JE makes the SRP, these are Probe SRS...the SRP's are definitely a nicer piston, but more expensive.

I'll have more pics later today.

hotbo · 10-15-2008, 06:52 AM

very nice steel thanks for sharing

hope everything goes well on the assembly

travis

71hallett · 10-15-2008, 08:44 AM

I have just had some trouble were the valve relief is. That piece is major thin and have lost it a couple times. I is while pushing the pump gas limits but I still hate them.

rIVERtRASH · 10-15-2008, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71hallett

And who used it for you?

Trying to be an asshole?

71hallett · 10-15-2008, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rIVERtRASH

Trying to be an asshole?

Pretty sure Steel knows I am joking with him.

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71hallett

Pretty sure Steel knows I am joking with him.

LOL...hey, ya never know who's feathers I might have ruffled...

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 02:44 PM

OK...so where were we...oh yeah, all painted and ready to go. Pistons are all done, rackced, and ready to load. After the paint, I go through and install all the freeze plugs and galley plugs I can. So now I assemble the short block.

Here's a little detail work on the rear cap...

gn7 · 10-15-2008, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71hallett

I have just had some trouble were the valve relief is. That piece is major thin and have lost it a couple times. I is while pushing the pump gas limits but I still hate them.

see, now you have me confused, do you hate JE's SRP's, or Probe SRS's? next time try KB "premium forged", the ring is way down there. Don't confuse these with the KB forged FRS pistons

gn7 · 10-15-2008, 03:01 PM

[QUOTE=steelcomp;388188]

QUOTE]

I never noticed before, but the Eagle 4.25 also has a center counter weight also. Nice work there Steelcomp.

fc-Pilot · 10-15-2008, 03:10 PM

I think you may have inspired me to show the build-up of my next project. It is always fun to follow along with someones build. My only concern is having everyone point out all the things I forgot to do, or did wrong.

Paul

gn7 · 10-15-2008, 03:13 PM

that's what we do best

I think I'll run a thread on what let go in our 300 enduro motor after the race

can almost gaur -an-tee it won't be that purty when snaps.

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 03:34 PM

At this point I like to get the bottom end closed up so it stays clean, so I get the front cover on and set the cam thrust, then the oil pump, check clearances on it, and button it up with the pan.

And there you have it. The completed short block, ready for the top end. Heads are next.

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 03:39 PM

[QUOTE=gn7;389200]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steelcomp

QUOTE]

I never noticed before, but the Eagle 4.25 also has a center counter weight also. Nice work there Steelcomp.

Thanks GN...yeah, but it's only on one side of the main, so you really can't call it a fully counterweighted crank. What's interesting is, I think they build these on the heavy side, like for stock rods and pistons or something (even though they wouldn't fit)...look at how much weight they had to take out of the rear counterweight on this deal. It didn't need most of that big external counterweight with a "fairly" light set of rods and pistons. If I was doing the balance, I'd start hackin' on that hing.

edit:...no, actually, it looks like it IS on both sides of teh main...just a small weight...

steelcomp · 10-15-2008, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gn7

see, now you have me confused, do you hate JE's SRP's, or Probe SRS's? next time try KB "premium forged", the ring is way down there. Don't confuse these with the KB forged FRS pistons

Talk about confused...the cheap KB is called FHR...

gn7 · 10-15-2008, 04:02 PM

[QUOTE=steelcomp;389269]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gn7

Thanks GN...yeah, but it's only on one side of the main, so you really can't call it a fully counterweighted crank. What's interesting is, I think they build these on the heavy side, like for stock rods and pistons or something (even though they wouldn't fit)...look at how much weight they had to take out of the rear counterweight on this deal. It didn't need most of that big external counterweight with a "fairly" light set of rods and pistons. If I was doing the balance, I'd start hackin' on that hing.

edit:...no, actually, it looks like it IS on both sides of teh main...just a small weight...

yeah, it didn't look like a full blown center weight, I agree about wacking at the rear weight instead of drilling the last inside weight. That's exactly what went thru my mind on the one I removed from a tear down and saw the last inside weight drilled. They are weighted for a 2300 bob, last 496 I did came in at 2288 but that was with a .500 long crower rod and a 13to1 piston that was no lite weight

gn7 · 10-15-2008, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steelcomp

Talk about confused...the cheap KB is called FHR...

just toooooo many S's and R's and then a damn "F" shows up along with an "H". and you wonder why we drive in circles.

71hallett · 10-15-2008, 05:09 PM

They were srp pistons. Said so on the box. Problem is always were I tried to circle. Looks good btw.

10-14-2008, 08:07 PM	#1
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	Blown 489 BB Chev Finally going to take the time to post some pics on the blown 489 I'm building. The engine is as folows: Mk IV BB Chev, four bolt, + .030 Eagle 4.25 forged crank Probe 6.385 H beam rods Probe SRS forged flat tops w/ JE rings Clevite H series bearings Rollmaster timing set Romac Balancer w/dual keyways Custom hyd roller, Morel lifters Stefs aluminum pan, Melling pump (supplied w/the pan) Canfield 310 heads w/ severe duty valves, hyd roller springs and Ti retainers, Crane gold rockers and Canfield stud girdle. Heads were done here in my shop...they came with guides and seats unfinished. 5 angle intake valve job, radiused ex, bowls blended, chambers CNC'd by Canfield. Heads flowed in the 360/290 range @ .800. Decent for a simple bowl blend. Ports were untouched. Blower is a BDS 871 package w/ (2) 850 Holleys prepped by AED. We'll see how that goes. Ignition will be MSD small dia. dist w/ Crane HiFire 6 w/ rev limiter. Block prep...remove all the casting flash and blend all sharp edges. Normally I do this before machining. Block was fully machined on a CNC and the final bores were honed on a new Rottler hone. Mains were also aligned. Everything on the block checked dead nuts. Before:

10-14-2008, 09:04 PM	#3
Shaun I'm No Expert Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: San Clemente, Ca Posts: 2,507	Wahoo, finally another build thread.!! Aparently me and steel are the only ones who like to post out builds (in my case build) Scott, looking forward to seeing every detail! __________________ Popular Boating Forum Archive 18' Anthony 10' Mini Jet

10-15-2008, 05:06 AM	#13
71hallett Cantard Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: snow bank Posts: 4,661	Hey Steel, whats your take on the ring location on these? I cant say I like them much on an a/n deal....maybe its just the srp pistons I shouldnt like...? __________________ Billett Brothers Hydraulic Cavitation Systems

10-15-2008, 06:52 AM	#15
hotbo Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: lake Ouachita AR Posts: 1,665	very nice steel thanks for sharinghope everything goes well on the assemblytravis

10-15-2008, 08:44 AM	#16
71hallett Cantard Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: snow bank Posts: 4,661	I have just had some trouble were the valve relief is. That piece is major thin and have lost it a couple times. I is while pushing the pump gas limits but I still hate them. __________________ Billett Brothers Hydraulic Cavitation Systems

10-14-2008, 08:12 PM	#2
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	after:

10-14-2008, 09:37 PM	#6
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	After a thorough cleaning with solvent and then hot soapy water I was ready to set the crank and check the thrust. Mind you by this time, I've gone through two different sets of main and rod bearings to get my clearances. The Eagle crank wasn't very consistant from journal to journal, but I finaly settled on what I had. The cam is next. This is a Bullet steel roller with an iron gear.

10-14-2008, 09:47 PM	#8
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	NOrmally I do all the mockup and measuring before the final assembly, but in this case, I assembled as I went. Since this is a relatively mild longblock, I didn't anticipate any problems. Of course, that usually bites you in the ass. We'll see. Here I stick a piston in the hole and check the deck height. I do this with no rings. Then I degree the cam at the lifter. I needed to make a 2* adjustment here to get the intake c/l at 112*. It actually ended up at 113.5, but with a little chain stretch, it'll be closer to 112.

10-14-2008, 10:28 PM	#10
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	At this point, the rings have been gapped, I've done a liquid measure on the piston dome (sorry I didn't get pics of that) and I've assembled the rack of pistons. Once I'm convinced everything is ready to go together, it's time to paint.

10-14-2008, 11:03 PM	#11
rIVERtRASH One Man Wolfpack Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 4,217	Thanks for sharing this build! What kind of paint did you use?

10-15-2008, 02:44 PM	#20
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	OK...so where were we...oh yeah, all painted and ready to go. Pistons are all done, rackced, and ready to load. After the paint, I go through and install all the freeze plugs and galley plugs I can. So now I assemble the short block. Here's a little detail work on the rear cap...

10-15-2008, 03:10 PM	#23
fc-Pilot Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 1,038	I think you may have inspired me to show the build-up of my next project. It is always fun to follow along with someones build. My only concern is having everyone point out all the things I forgot to do, or did wrong. Paul

10-15-2008, 03:34 PM	#25
steelcomp ... Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: central coast, CA Posts: 5,532	At this point I like to get the bottom end closed up so it stays clean, so I get the front cover on and set the cam thrust, then the oil pump, check clearances on it, and button it up with the pan. And there you have it. The completed short block, ready for the top end. Heads are next.

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