Thread:

2 more issues

What did you do to it that might have caused this overheating? Have you touched the plumbing recently? If so, it helps to know what you did so we can help you undo it. If sounds like there is a clog or restriction somewhere. If you have any ball valve/gate valve on the setup, Id start looking there. Did someone turn a valve they shouldn't have? Perhaps the block has a clog in it, try pulling a couple freeze plugs from each side of the block. There are lots of threads on this, so Id start reading up on it. If this is a new to you boat, or the plumbing looks old, sometimes its just easier to start over.

For the oil issue, Id do a compression test for starters. There are probably a few threads on that too.

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

So,, I said screw the diverter for now and took the boat out. It's overheating and I can't figure out why. And it was blowing oil out. Of the starboard side breather.

It has a thermostat and a 4 way t-stat housing with a bassett t-valve..

No pcv valve and 2 breathers.

Thanks

Describe the performance of the boat (sans heating) in general did it feel OK otherwize? also IS there a thermostat actually in the housing ? if so what type ? re the oil maybe a stuck or sticky ring time for a compression a cylinder leak down test ...

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

I put the engine in, but kept the plumbing the way the guy before me had it. Coming from the pump, there is a gate valve plumbed to a pressure relief valve, that goes to a "T" which goes to the water pump ports, and up to the 2 bottom ports on the thermostat housing. There is a thermostat in the housing, its brass, not sure what temp its set to open. Then on the top of the t-stat housing one line goes to a gate valve for the exit through the transom, the other side goes to the bassett "T" valve which then goes to the header lines.
.

Sounds like you got your upper and lower hoses mixed up on your 4 Port T-stat housing. The bypass hoses from the tees on the "water pump ports" should feed the top two ports of the housing for when the thermostat is closed. Another thing, is there a plunger and spring inside the housing also?

Josh is exactly correct. Switch the hoses. Our diagrams below...

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

Welp, I worded wrong, it is plumbed with the block hoses going to the top, the outlets out the bottom. However there is NO plunger and spring.

Absent the plunger and spring it will likley overheat .. Tom

Yes it will, just bypass most the water right out the exhaust w/o going through engine = overheat.

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

Can someone send me a link as to what the plunger is?

Any ideas on the blowing oil?

You will need the plastic valve and the spring. Also the seat and snap ring if they've been removed from inside the housing. Here is a link. Rex Marine Thermostat Kit for Chevy and Olds V8: Automotive Performance Products, Boat & Marine Parts & Hardware

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

So,, I said screw the diverter for now and took the boat out. It's overheating and I can't figure out why. And it was blowing oil out. Of the starboard side breather.

It has a thermostat and a 4 way t-stat housing with a bassett t-valve..

No pcv valve and 2 breathers.

Thanks

Originally Posted by PowerAddict

Can someone send me a link as to what the plunger is?

Any ideas on the blowing oil?

Blowing oil is an indication of too much internal crankcase pressure. It is also an indication that the breathers are, A, too short, or B, not baffled inside the valvecovers, or both... I've had great success by adding a PCV valve on one side and a baffled breather/filler cap on the other.... The old "Offy" breathers look cool, but unless they're baffled inside they will allow liquid oil to the top, and out......A simple PCV valve connected to manifold vacuum MAY solve your problem....
Ray