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  1. #43
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivieraracing View Post
    No sir, the original one was what came with the housing kit, and the new one is a direct replacement for the kit!! Both high flow marine ones!
    but do they have the hole in them?

    curious to see if bypassing it has any effect
    #55

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  3. #44
    Cas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivieraracing View Post
    No sir, the original one was what came with the housing kit, and the new one is a direct replacement for the kit!! Both high flow marine ones!
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    but do they have the hole in them?

    curious to see if bypassing it has any effect
    it will. It'll lower the temp reading the sending unit is picking up due to there being a little bit of water flow. It will most likely help that spike in temp he's seeing not happen. Since he has 2 operable thermo's, it sure wouldn't hurt to give it a try.....real cheap experiment, that's for sure.
    The other little thing I've seen cause false readings is having too much teflon tape on the sending unit threads.

  4. #45
    JetBoat Marine Parts&Svc jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivieraracing View Post
    Gotcha, didn't think about looping the top of the T's together, way easier to do it that way and just plug the top inlets of the thermostat housing!! I'm going to probably take it out for another short trip on the river here in the next few days to test a few things out and this will be one of the things I will do as well!! Thanks for the help!!

    And yes, I had to clarify the painted nails were not mine before it was mentioned from someone else!! ahahhaha

    So, is this what you were getting at? I looped the T's and all I would need to do now would be to plug off the top ports of the housing or loop them with the other hose I took off, all of this with the thermostat out, correct?


    Yes however I'd temporarily bring the water directly from the jet to the water inlets and then have the exit water from your modified thermostat housing to the manifolds and then loop back out to the snails

  5. #46
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cas View Post
    it will. It'll lower the temp reading the sending unit is picking up due to there being a little bit of water flow. It will most likely help that spike in temp he's seeing not happen. Since he has 2 operable thermo's, it sure wouldn't hurt to give it a try.....real cheap experiment, that's for sure.
    The other little thing I've seen cause false readings is having too much teflon tape on the sending unit threads.
    yeah I used to enlarge the hole just a little so that the temp wouldnt swing so much during a good run

    also never been a fan of pre heating the water prior to entering the engine
    #55

  6. #47
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    Do you have a pressure relief valve comming off the pump ? To me it sounds like when at WOT the jet is pumping way to much water in and out of the block to quickly to absorb alot of the heat. With out a pressure relief valve your pump can and will put WAY to much pressure into the engine. Pumps can build 100 + pounds of pressure leading to blown hoses, head gaskets and even blow out the soft plugs. Been there done all the above.
    No more Mr. Nice Guy !

  7. #48
    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with a bypass thermostat kit, temperature stayed at 160* on hose, but as soon as I ran the boat on the lake the temp would cycle between 160 - 200+*, tried just about everything you did.

    I decided to have a look at the head gaskets and found that it blew between a water port and cylinder. No water in the oil.

    I came to the conclusion that the thermostat could not cycle fast enough to keep up with the super heated water coming from the cylinder and that made the temp fluctuate.

    I had the block decked and the heads resurfaced, fitted everything new, and the problem was solved.

    Wikus


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  8. #49
    JetBoat Marine Parts&Svc jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Just a though for your saftey, considering some of the "heating" issues your dealing with , highly suggest you peak in at the exaust hoses (inside) to check for "bubbling and delaminating" , exaust hoses can look perfect externally and be failing on the inside from heat Tom

  9. #50
    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Dang, talk about the responses today I've gotten on this, much appreciated and I will try to answer all that I can!!

    For Outlaw, yes both do have bypass holes in them, they are small but for 6 years or so that I've ran the thermostat it's usually made for a boring gauge that was pretty stationary at 160 degrees most of the time!! Might try to enlarge them a fraction bigger, just gotta figure out the temp fluctuation problem first before I do something else to disguise the problem at all!! Great idea on making them bigger though!
    I'm almost pretty sure that by taking out the thermostat all together is gonna make the gauge barely register like it use to pre-thermostat and I probably won't see anything out of the ordinary in the gauge due to pretty much no restriction for the water flow!! Flow in and out fast, but we shall see!

    For CAS, I agree with your thought on no thermostat will equal little to no fluctuation in the temp due to the lack of restriction for the water to flow!! When I first got the boat, it didn't have a thermostat and alot of times you wouldn't barely see the temp register on the gauge, it was around 100 degrees and wouldn't warm up completely!! For the teflon tape idea, the last time I took it out with the new sending unit I actually didn't put teflon tape on it and it still fluctuated like the old one did!! Since that last run, I put teflon on it and installed it like it is now!! Never heard about the teflon idea, I love learning new things and ideas!!

    For Michigan Daaaaaa, I don't have a pressure relief valve anywhere in the system but am going to install a gauge here in the next day or so to see what it has for pressure at idle and WOT!! What I'm not sure of is why all these years, since new in '75 till today it's never had a problem with pressure causing any problems until now. I know stuff can happen and I can accept that, but I know the complete history of this boat and motor and it's never had a problem with pressure messing something up!! I will be running that gauge and will take it from there, if I do have way too much, I'll be picking peoples brains on the best and right way to reduce the pressure without losing the flow to the motor!! Just trying to diagnose what's causing my temp flux problem right now, fix it, identify what's caused it, and fix that!! It never ends for me lately I guess, always something wrong with something!! hahahaha

    For Jet Mad, before this problem, my boat would run in the driveway and in the river at 160 pretty much all the time except for a long WOT then it would creep up a bit but then would always drop back down to 160. Also would obviously heat up with I would suck something into the jet like I did this time, but what's different about this time was that I kicked out whatever was in the jet but my heating up problem never went with it!! This is new to me, I've had this setup for some time now and this is out of the ordinary!! So now I'm looking at possibly having a problem with a head or both, and thinking I may be having the same problem you described!! Question I have for you is, did that gasket show up in the compression check? Also, after the motor work, I assume you continued to run the thermostat setup and did the fluctuation continue after that or does it do something different now like how I described mine ran like previous to my problem? Is it steady now around 160?

  10. #51
    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Sorry for that long response, your heads probably hurt now from reading it as mine does from typing it!! lol

    Thank you all for your words, keep the thoughts and ideas coming folks, they are much appreciated!!

  11. #52
    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Just a though for your saftey, considering some of the "heating" issues your dealing with , highly suggest you peak in at the exaust hoses (inside) to check for "bubbling and delaminating" , exaust hoses can look perfect externally and be failing on the inside from heat Tom
    Great idea, and I did check all the hoses and fitting out last night and everything looks great for all of that!! Air flows through it all, and for my exhaust water hoses I am using the clear reinforced hoses for them and they also look great inside!! Also called you number a bit ago and left a message with a lady who answered, feel free to call me back at your convenience, my name is Chris and I left a (503) area code number as a return number!!

    Chris

  12. #53
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    Sooo many posts so I might be repeating this but did you pull the frost plugs and check for sand?

    I have seen water come out of the water jacket areas but there was still sand built up in the block when the frost plugs were pulled out.

    I replaced mine with rubber fixit ones that were only a couple bucks and always kept a few extra in the boat in case one would come out but never had that happen, and when you want to flush out the block just loosen the nut and pop out your plugs and get all that sand out and pop them back in...just a thought.

  13. #54
    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fonz69 View Post
    Sooo many posts so I might be repeating this but did you pull the frost plugs and check for sand?

    I have seen water come out of the water jacket areas but there was still sand built up in the block when the frost plugs were pulled out.

    I replaced mine with rubber fixit ones that were only a couple bucks and always kept a few extra in the boat in case one would come out but never had that happen, and when you want to flush out the block just loosen the nut and pop out your plugs and get all that sand out and pop them back in...just a thought.
    Been thinking about popping out the plugs and flushing it, just didn't think about using the removable kind though!!

  14. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivieraracing View Post
    Been thinking about popping out the plugs and flushing it, just didn't think about using the removable kind though!!
    I thought the rubber plugs were a good idea also until I blew one out while under way. Made it back to shore but almost sunk the boat. I think going with brass/copper is the best way to go.

  15. #56
    JetBoat Marine Parts&Svc jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Blue View Post
    I thought the rubber plugs were a good idea also until I blew one out while under way. Made it back to shore but almost sunk the boat. I think going with brass/copper is the best way to go.
    I carry one of these (expandable) rubber in my tool bag for emergencies , but IMO Brass Core/Freeze/Frost/Welch/engine block plugs are the only way to go

    Core plug - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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