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nitrous help

  1. #1
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    Default nitrous help

    Motor shuts off when the system is activated. I'm thinking my fuel pump isn't strong enough to feed the carb and nitrous. Edelbrock 110 gph fuel pump.
    If you idle up and activate the system is sounds like 400 midgets are hitting the cylinder walls with ball pein hammers. I taped into my main fuel line to feed the fuel side of the notorious Running over to a regulator and then to the solenoid. Would the regulator at the end cause the cause the total fuel psi to be the same. I'm not feeding the carb off the regulator but its still inter graded to the system. I know it has to be because of the pump not being able to feed the motor and notorious system. Any ideas

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    You running a fuel saftey switch?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Quote Originally Posted by 71hallett View Post
    You running a fuel saftey switch?
    Not yet.

    It caught me off guard. I hit the toggle switch and wham motor dies. Takes a bit to fire back up hit the arm switch wham dies. Idle up hit the switch and start detenating like a mofo

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    man, stop what you're doin and take a step back. nitrous can blow da shit outta a motor fositty, the tunin curve is tight with it and ya never want it to activate at less than wot, you'll lean the motor and kabbbbooooommmmmm

    i'm uploading some schemetics i drawed out for my taylor sj when i wired it up, pm me your email and i'll send em to ya in the mornin man. don't mess with the nitrous again till you have a fuel pressure safety switch. just making sho you don't pop a motor.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    man, stop what you're doin and take a step back. nitrous can blow da shit outta a motor fositty, the tunin curve is tight with it and ya never want it to activate at less than wot, you'll lean the motor and kabbbbooooommmmmm

    i'm uploading some schemetics i drawed out for my taylor sj when i wired it up, pm me your email and i'll send em to ya in the mornin man. don't mess with the nitrous again till you have a fuel pressure safety switch. just making sho you don't pop a motor.
    I never opened the bottle. This happened when I armed the system. Never did crack the bottle. Its was acting like the motor was running out of fuel when it started feeding the solenoid

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fo Sitty View Post
    I never opened the bottle. This happened when I armed the system. Never did crack the bottle. Its was acting like the motor was running out of fuel when it started feeding the solenoid
    ohhhh, so when you armed the system, the fuel solenoid opened and started dumping in fuel buy 2 relays tommorrow and a fuel pressure safety switch and rewire fositty. i'll email ya a easy wiring diagrahm that'll protect the hell outta your motor and make your switches last(you remember the convo about sparks inside switches). i've got it uploading now to my email. 110gph otta hold up to a 150hp shot if its a true 110gph pump, most that are rated 110 aren't really doin that at 7psi and stayin up with a motor runnin 5500-6500.

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    If you activated the system with the bottle closed you were flooding the crap out of it....that bangin poppin is prob fuel lighting in your exhaust aswell as plug fouling exc. exc. What size kit are you running?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Also make sure your nitrous and ignition have there own power sources. When you open the nitrous circuit if you have then together you will also get a voltage drop for a sec in your ignition which can also (not always)lead to nitrous pops and carb backfires.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Fo, where are you drawing 12vdc power from to operate the solenoids?

    Do NOT pull it from teh power feed to the ignition coil.

    If you have a short, it'll drop violtage to the coil and kill the engine.

    Some of those solenoids draw a fair bit of amperage when triggered, and can again, drop voltage to the coil and kill the ignition.

    Insufficient fuel flow will NOT just "turn off" the engine, it will starve it over several secconds to kill it. You are, for some reason, loosing power to the ignition when you trigger it.

    It caught me off guard. I hit the toggle switch and wham motor dies. Takes a bit to fire back up hit the arm switch wham dies. Idle up hit the switch and start detenating like a mofo
    OK, now, wait a seccond, you need 2 switches, are you running both?

    They are in series so BOTH must be pressed to "fire" the system. This is precisely so that you CANNOT inject nitrous at any setting below full-throttle.

    With the WOT switch "open", the arming switch does NOTHING except provide power to the contacts of the WOT switch.

    You can drive arround, all day long, bottle open, arming switch on, cruise all you want, and never use a drop of nitrous, as long as you never floor the throttle.

    At idle, or even a fast idle, any setting below the wide-open-stop, the WOT switch will be open and the arming switch will have no effect on anything.

    If it does, something is mis-wired, or shorted.

    Now, if for some silly-assed reason you have the WOT switch depressed at idle, and trigger the arming switch, you flood the engine with fuel, and kill it.

    If you ever do the above with the bottle open, you are very likely to break things, expensive things.
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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    If you are running one of the smaller systems, 150HP or less, you have plenty of fuel suply.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
    H.L. Mencken

    OBAMA: Some people deserve this.
    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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    thats the way to brake your pistions or wash the rings out of it sound like you need to flow the fuel system to check the psi. who kit and what size jets you running? theres a great site for nitrous called YELLOW BULLET.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    Fo, where are you drawing 12vdc power from to operate the solenoids?

    Do NOT pull it from teh power feed to the ignition coil.

    If you have a short, it'll drop violtage to the coil and kill the engine.

    Some of those solenoids draw a fair bit of amperage when triggered, and can again, drop voltage to the coil and kill the ignition.

    Insufficient fuel flow will NOT just "turn off" the engine, it will starve it over several secconds to kill it. You are, for some reason, loosing power to the ignition when you trigger it.



    OK, now, wait a seccond, you need 2 switches, are you running both?

    They are in series so BOTH must be pressed to "fire" the system. This is precisely so that you CANNOT inject nitrous at any setting below full-throttle.

    With the WOT switch "open", the arming switch does NOTHING except provide power to the contacts of the WOT switch.

    You can drive arround, all day long, bottle open, arming switch on, cruise all you want, and never use a drop of nitrous, as long as you never floor the throttle.

    At idle, or even a fast idle, any setting below the wide-open-stop, the WOT switch will be open and the arming switch will have no effect on anything.

    If it does, something is mis-wired, or shorted.
    U
    Now, if for some silly-assed reason you have the WOT switch depressed at idle, and trigger the arming switch, you flood the engine with fuel, and kill it.

    If you ever do the above with the bottle open, you are very likely to break things, expensive things.
    I have both a toggle to arm and wot switch. I have to power tied into the
    circuit board at the back. Its instant like a kill switch.

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    Nos powershot 125 fixed.

    Quote Originally Posted by nascar97 View Post
    thats the way to brake your pistions or wash the rings out of it sound like you need to flow the fuel system to check the psi. who kit and what size jets you running? theres a great site for nitrous called YELLOW BULLET.com

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    Glendale Arizona Squirtcha?'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fo Sitty View Post
    I have both a toggle to arm and wot switch. I have to power tied into the
    circuit board at the back. Its instant like a kill switch.
    Something's obviously wired incorrectly. Re-check everything with the manufacturer's diagram.

    Here's a quick n easy, down n dirty operational check for just the nitrous end of things.

    Turn the ignition keyswitch on to the run position (don't start the motor).

    Bottle valve closed.

    Turn the arming switch on (nothing should happen at this point, no solenoids click or activate).

    With the motor still off but the keyswitch in the run position, bottle valve off, and nitrous system armed, activate the microswitch (WOT switch) manually with your finger. Every time you hit the WOT switch both solenoids should click until you release it. Once the microswitch is released you'll hear another click as they go closed.

    If anything other than this happens, something is wired wrong. The relays can be a bit tricky if you haven't wired them up before.

    Be aware that many of the WOT microswitches have three terminals on them. You have to be connected to the correct two ternimals.

    What circuit board are you referring to Tyro? I'm not familiar with your particular kit, but I've seen a few and never saw any circuit boards.
    Last edited by Squirtcha?; 03-15-2009 at 09:13 PM.

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