Thread:

nitrous help

You running a fuel saftey switch?

man, stop what you're doin and take a step back. nitrous can blow da shit outta a motor fositty, the tunin curve is tight with it and ya never want it to activate at less than wot, you'll lean the motor and kabbbbooooommmmmm

i'm uploading some schemetics i drawed out for my taylor sj when i wired it up, pm me your email and i'll send em to ya in the mornin man. don't mess with the nitrous again till you have a fuel pressure safety switch. just making sho you don't pop a motor.

Originally Posted by Fo Sitty

I never opened the bottle. This happened when I armed the system. Never did crack the bottle. Its was acting like the motor was running out of fuel when it started feeding the solenoid

ohhhh, so when you armed the system, the fuel solenoid opened and started dumping in fuel buy 2 relays tommorrow and a fuel pressure safety switch and rewire fositty. i'll email ya a easy wiring diagrahm that'll protect the hell outta your motor and make your switches last(you remember the convo about sparks inside switches). i've got it uploading now to my email. 110gph otta hold up to a 150hp shot if its a true 110gph pump, most that are rated 110 aren't really doin that at 7psi and stayin up with a motor runnin 5500-6500.

If you activated the system with the bottle closed you were flooding the crap out of it....that bangin poppin is prob fuel lighting in your exhaust aswell as plug fouling exc. exc. What size kit are you running?

Also make sure your nitrous and ignition have there own power sources. When you open the nitrous circuit if you have then together you will also get a voltage drop for a sec in your ignition which can also (not always)lead to nitrous pops and carb backfires.

Fo, where are you drawing 12vdc power from to operate the solenoids?

Do NOT pull it from teh power feed to the ignition coil.

If you have a short, it'll drop violtage to the coil and kill the engine.

Some of those solenoids draw a fair bit of amperage when triggered, and can again, drop voltage to the coil and kill the ignition.

Insufficient fuel flow will NOT just "turn off" the engine, it will starve it over several secconds to kill it. You are, for some reason, loosing power to the ignition when you trigger it.

It caught me off guard. I hit the toggle switch and wham motor dies. Takes a bit to fire back up hit the arm switch wham dies. Idle up hit the switch and start detenating like a mofo

OK, now, wait a seccond, you need 2 switches, are you running both?

They are in series so BOTH must be pressed to "fire" the system. This is precisely so that you CANNOT inject nitrous at any setting below full-throttle.

With the WOT switch "open", the arming switch does NOTHING except provide power to the contacts of the WOT switch.

You can drive arround, all day long, bottle open, arming switch on, cruise all you want, and never use a drop of nitrous, as long as you never floor the throttle.

At idle, or even a fast idle, any setting below the wide-open-stop, the WOT switch will be open and the arming switch will have no effect on anything.

If it does, something is mis-wired, or shorted.

Now, if for some silly-assed reason you have the WOT switch depressed at idle, and trigger the arming switch, you flood the engine with fuel, and kill it.

If you ever do the above with the bottle open, you are very likely to break things, expensive things.

If you are running one of the smaller systems, 150HP or less, you have plenty of fuel suply.

Originally Posted by Fo Sitty

I have both a toggle to arm and wot switch. I have to power tied into the
circuit board at the back. Its instant like a kill switch.

Something's obviously wired incorrectly. Re-check everything with the manufacturer's diagram.

Here's a quick n easy, down n dirty operational check for just the nitrous end of things.

Turn the ignition keyswitch on to the run position (don't start the motor).

Bottle valve closed.

Turn the arming switch on (nothing should happen at this point, no solenoids click or activate).

With the motor still off but the keyswitch in the run position, bottle valve off, and nitrous system armed, activate the microswitch (WOT switch) manually with your finger. Every time you hit the WOT switch both solenoids should click until you release it. Once the microswitch is released you'll hear another click as they go closed.

If anything other than this happens, something is wired wrong. The relays can be a bit tricky if you haven't wired them up before.

Be aware that many of the WOT microswitches have three terminals on them. You have to be connected to the correct two ternimals.

What circuit board are you referring to Tyro? I'm not familiar with your particular kit, but I've seen a few and never saw any circuit boards.