Thread:

Oil pressure and mechanical gauges

Originally Posted by slowride

Put an T in the block and run both with the mechanical gauge on the T. There is pressure loss in extended lengths that make them react slower, and (in extremes) inaccurately. The mechanical gauge on the block will give the best reading possible. Compare the 2 gauges until you're comfortable with their readings. Watch them and enjoy the summer.

Thanks guys.

Mike that's the way I wanted to do it, and will. I need to pick up the proper fittings etc. The only reason I ran the capillary is because everything I needed was in the kit for a quick and easy diagnostics check. Also cut the tubing down to 2' (just long enough so I could put the gauge up front and watch it from the seat for the test.

Hopefully that's all it is and I can nurse another season out of it. I believe I'll try to rest my foot on the gas pedal just a bit lighter though........

What weight of oil and what brand filter? Are you running a front sump pan?

I run Valvoline VR1 20/50. Run only Wix filters

466 BBF M84D Mellings stock truck pump. Idles 35-40 psi....65-70 psi @ 3000 rpm electric gage. 8QT full sump pan.

Also, Cut the filter open and check that before you do a teardown

I did run 10/40 castrol......Now I run kendall SAE 50 GT-1 High Performance.
Still have a few cases left. The good old green oil.
I run a wix filter.....51060R, Best filter that I have found, Constant flow, No blocker.

Dan Olson pan rear sump, custom cut for starter.

Originally Posted by katchenup

I did run 10/40 castrol......Now I run kendall SAE 50 GT-1 High Performance.
Still have a few cases left. The good old green oil.
I run a wix filter.....51060R, Best filter that I have found, Constant flow, No blocker.

Dan Olson pan rear sump, custom cut for starter.

see post #10

Once again...........I appreciate everyone's input.

I've started it a couple times per day over the past few days with the mechanical gauge, and oil pressure is solid now. Looks like it was just a sender. I will pull the filter this week and cut into it to see if anything's going away though.

Thank god cuz I can't afford to rebuild it the way I want right now and don't really want to pull it and tear down for rings and bearings. I'd rather just wait until I can put the stroker together.

Oil and filter is the same thing I've been running for the past 7-8 years. K&N filter and Valvoline 20W50 full synthetic.

I agree that an oil cooler is an excellent idea Pat and when I get the new motor I believe I'll plumb one in. One thing's for sure.........it can't hurt. Also plan to make a pan change.

I think I'll baby it a little more till end of season though. This deal got my attention.......again