Thread:

Shifter issue

Most common issue is too fas of an idle speed..

You did not get specific on drive system, but could be something as simple as an interrupt switch being faulty or a quick sync and linc if the controls.

Have also seen it when the throttle cable is adjusted too tightly toward throttle close and it puts pressure on the whole works.

I would recommend going through a preliminary synchronization of the controls before looking for something broken or worn out...It sounds like it was just dicked around with.

Originally Posted by Scapegoat

old model, 3Liter volvo with a volvo outdrive. Has a large rubber bellow on the transome around the drive.

Thanks for the insight.

How certain are you it's a Volvo? The old stringer model OMC I/O's had th big (24") bellows...1976 to 1986

The shift on the older ones (white drive) was a POS when they were new. Still could be idling too high...


If it truly is a Volvo Penta it will be baby poo green and be very simple to work on...The OMC, not so much.
Check for tightness in the 33C cable and there is a potential the centering ball is worn or a rusty spring, it should all be in the upper housing.

This is a cone clutch dealio not too unlike a Bravo from Mercruiser. There is one cable from the rear cover of the out drive all the way to the control...Cable length will accentuate any goofy issues...

Good luck.

Originally Posted by Scapegoat

Your right, its an OMC

Things to check...


lower unit have oil? is there water in the oil? this uses a pull pull control box, has oil been pushed into it?
with the boat running on a flusher (or in the water) disconnect the control cable and shift it forward/reverse manually...

Idle literally cannot be above about 750RPM.

Check to see if it has an interrupter module (identified by the two micro switches on the control box at the back of the engine)

If it has an interrupter, press one of the switches in at idle and see if the engine starts to die. It may or may not stay running depending on how well the engine runs. (the module cuts out cylinders to slow engine speed.).

There is a funny looking apparatus at the back of the control box where the pull pull cable comes into the control box (on the back of the engine) stick a small screwdriver in there and push the cable (black rubbery pull pull) inward about 1/2" then pull out the screwdriver and let go of the cable simultaneously, this resets the tension on the little cables...

Above that, it needs to com apart....Good luck finding pieces.

I have a full on service manual at the shop if you need to see some pages let me know..

Was an Obsolete Marine Company (OMC) master technician for over 15 years....I can pull one apart and put it back together drunk and hungry.

Originally Posted by Scapegoat

I can get ya drunk.......JK
Any pics of the above statements would be great. I plan on starting the trouble shooting Sunday. that is if I can find the flush/hose kit that mount on the drive. Would it be the typical clamshell style for bravo one? or is it completely different.



Thanks for all the info, much appreciated

Yup, just a regular old Bravo flush muff...

Gather some info and I will check for updates on this thread...Just subscribed to it...

Originally Posted by GT Jets

Yup, just a regular old Bravo flush muff...

Gather some info and I will check for updates on this thread...Just subscribed to it...

Originally Posted by bart@nordicboats

is it mechanical shift or hydromechanical the oil pump may be bad

True, still don't know what we're workin' on though


Gonna be waitin' on pins and frikken needles til' Sunday...

Some pics to help establish what I'm dealing with.

Thanks guys

Originally Posted by Scapegoat

Some pics to help establish what I'm dealing with.

Thanks guys

Piece O cheese, mechanical shift with all the right junk on it...As stated before, check the oil in the lower....

First things first.

Disconnect the shift cable at the box on the back of the motor by removing the small cotter pin. Once that is done, start the motor on a flusher and attempt to shift it to forward and reverse. It should move quite easily with just your bare hand. (make sure the kids, dog, cat and wife are nowhere near the propeller when doing this)...

If it moves smoothly and goes into each perspective gear without drama, slowly start to move the shifter (engine still running) toward forward and note the sticker at what position it starts to engage (ratcheting sound from the drive). There are numbers to note on that sticker. Then do the same for reverse, note the number...Neutral will be right in the middle, so make any adjustments to the cable to make sure this is correct.

If the arm is difficult to move, the first thing to do is to pull the box all apart and inspect the pulleys and cable guide for issues.

Step two (with motor still running) press the little arm and v-notched actuator together actuating the interrupt micro switch, there is a little bitty button on the switch. The engine should shudder, fart, bitch, piss and moan with the button depressed but not die. This tests the interrupt box and the switch.

Step three would be to ensure the interrupt switch cancel switches are adjusted properly. They should be depressed when the arm is in full forward or reverse. Adjust as necessary with a standard screwdriver. If you can, it is probably box time...

Good hunting. You are working on a mid 80's 400 series stringer motor BTW...

Too bad I don't have any more 800 series lowers...Make that toon work mo betta

You could swing a 14 1/4" prop.