[Question] Drive oil / Gear lube for a Bravo 1 XR
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Drive oil / Gear lube for a Bravo 1 XR

  1. #1
    06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags twinDRAGZ's Avatar
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    Default Drive oil / Gear lube for a Bravo 1 XR

    Ok, I am thinking this is going to be a seriously rookie question but I would rather ask a dumb question as opposed to making a dumb mistake. I have had a boat with a jet drive, and one with twin outboards but this is my first sterndrive boat.

    I just bought a DCB F-26 and it has a Bravo 1-XR drive. I have gotten a service manual for the motor but cannot find one on just the drive and I want to change all the fluids this weekend before I take it out again. I would love to be taking it in for this however I just spent all my money buying the boat so I need to do some service work on it myself this time around. On the motor itself is a resevoir for drive fluid and when I look at the drive itself there doesn't seem to be and drain/fills on it. Where is the gearlube for this? Is it dry sump and located up on the motor? I am at a loss of how to do this and am not a mechanical idiot, or at least I like to think I am not. I can read the service manual pretty well to and it doesn't specify anything about the drive.

    Any help will be appreicated.
    Last edited by twinDRAGZ; 07-25-2011 at 03:22 PM.

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    Senior Member Familycat's Avatar
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    Remove the prop and there will be a slot headed screw below the prop shaft. Remove screw to drain. The will be another similar screw on the side of the upper unit. Remove it when draining. You might have some fluid flowing out of this hole when starting to drain. I will quickly stop and continue to drain out the bottom. Check drain plug for debris. They are magnetic and will collect metal particles. Fine dust ok, larger pieces mean you may need gears, etc. Once completely drained, refill from lower drain. You will need to purchase a pump with plastic screw in hose. Most boat supply houses will carry them. Fill from below until fluid comes out the hole on the upper unit. Quickly remove the hose and replace the drain bolt. Good idea to replace the blue fiber washer on the drain bolts. Use Merc/Quicksilver high performance gear oil. Capacity approx. 3 quarts. Once all buttoned up fill reservoir in motor compartment and run. Keep a bottle on board as it may settle some on the first run. Have fun. Hope I didn't miss anything.

    Rick
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    06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags twinDRAGZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Familycat View Post
    Remove the prop and there will be a slot headed screw below the prop shaft. Remove screw to drain. The will be another similar screw on the side of the upper unit. Remove it when draining. You might have some fluid flowing out of this hole when starting to drain. I will quickly stop and continue to drain out the bottom. Check drain plug for debris. They are magnetic and will collect metal particles. Fine dust ok, larger pieces mean you may need gears, etc. Once completely drained, refill from lower drain. You will need to purchase a pump with plastic screw in hose. Most boat supply houses will carry them. Fill from below until fluid comes out the hole on the upper unit. Quickly remove the hose and replace the drain bolt. Good idea to replace the blue fiber washer on the drain bolts. Use Merc/Quicksilver high performance gear oil. Capacity approx. 3 quarts. Once all buttoned up fill reservoir in motor compartment and run. Keep a bottle on board as it may settle some on the first run. Have fun. Hope I didn't miss anything.

    Rick

    Rick,

    Thanks for your reply. So it sounds pretty much the same as filling the lower unit oil on my outboards. I guess I just need to look harder when I am looking at the drive. As for the res. in the engine compartment what do I fill that with? The gear lube? And will the res drain with the outdrive plugs pulled or is there a seperate one for that?

    Thanks again!

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    When your pumping new gear oil into the drive, watch for oil coming out of the upper drain hole. Once you see oil coming out of this orface, reinstall the slotted screw plug. Then keep pumping oil into the drive slowly until you just start to see the fluid level in the resevior bottle rise. Then stop pumping. Reinstall the bottom slotted screw like FC instructed (quickly)!. Let the fluid level in the resevior stabilize for about 5 minutes. Then top off to the full line in the resevior. Check the level after running the boat for a hour or so. It will probably drop a bit (air in the drive)

    Just don't run the engine without water. You will smoke the waterpump impeller.

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    06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags twinDRAGZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCDave View Post
    When your pumping new gear oil into the drive, watch for oil coming out of the upper drain hole. Once you see oil coming out of this orface, reinstall the slotted screw plug. Then keep pumping oil into the drive slowly until you just start to see the fluid level in the resevior bottle rise. Then stop pumping. Reinstall the bottom slotted screw like FC instructed (quickly)!. Let the fluid level in the resevior stabilize for about 5 minutes. Then top off to the full line in the resevior. Check the level after running the boat for a hour or so. It will probably drop a bit (air in the drive)

    Just don't run the engine without water. You will smoke the waterpump impeller.

    Thanks for all the help. I just wasn't sure how that resevior was going to fill. So I for sure appreciate all the help. I am definitely going to run the Mercury Hi-Performance Gear Lube through it. I will get an extra quart to flush it a little bit I have no idea what's in there now but it looks greenish colored like the merc stuff.

  7. #6
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    The greenish color is Mercruiser High Performance Gear Lube. Be sure to use that when re-filling your drive.
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    Diesel Pimp WINspeed's Avatar
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    Default Oil Option

    I know a lot of guys out here use Redline's Lightweight shock proof (The blue stuff) and have had great luck with it. I've been running it for two years with no problems.

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    Senior Member WMorton's Avatar
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    I just did mine and notice you live in SD. West Marine will have everything you need with just about the best prices.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WINspeed View Post
    I know a lot of guys out here use Redline's Lightweight shock proof (The blue stuff) and have had great luck with it. I've been running it for two years with no problems.
    This is the way to go. Run it in my v-drive too

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    06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags twinDRAGZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WINspeed View Post
    I know a lot of guys out here use Redline's Lightweight shock proof (The blue stuff) and have had great luck with it. I've been running it for two years with no problems.
    I used to use the Redline Heavy Shockproof in my sportmasters but switched to the Mercury stuff after having a few issues with water intrusion. Maybe I will give the lighteight stuff next fluid change as I already bought all the Merc stuff.

  12. #11
    the silver bullet! TUNNEL T's Avatar
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    twin dragz , filll drive just like fc and rc said ,but as soon as it comes out the top hole put plugs back in both .then take cap off res and fill to line ,theres a check valve in line that isn't going to allow you fill res from drive (it might work ) but much faster to just fill res from engine compartment. TUNNEL T
    FINAL TOUCH DETAILING

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    lurker oldtoys's Avatar
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    Does this work on an older (1989) Bravo1? I don't see the slot for the lower plug.

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    Senior Member blefever's Avatar
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    First time around, sense you don't really know what kind of lube you have, drain the resevior bottle too. Next time pinch off the rubber resevior line with a pair of small vise grips before removing the drain plug. Saves some time and no need to drain good fluid, as long as your using the same stuff and do this at least once a year.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twinDRAGZ View Post
    I used to use the Redline Heavy Shockproof in my sportmasters but switched to the Mercury stuff after having a few issues with water intrusion. Maybe I will give the lighteight stuff next fluid change as I already bought all the Merc stuff.
    Redline is great stuff. Here's what I use. Under "TYPICAL USES", the first line says - marine outdrive units.

    I've ran this 75 hours at a time in my Bravo-I, minimal "fuzz" on the magnets and still looks/smells new. My boat is not light, either.

    RTF racing transmission fluid
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    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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