balsa replacement??
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 20

Thread:
balsa replacement??

  1. #1
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default balsa replacement??

    taking the floor out of the boat i find a few bubbles in the bottom. i poked them for inspection and found the balsa inside is almost black and has no integrity left at all. been cutting and sanding it out for a few days now. careful not to cut through the hull to the water side. its quite the process and patience is a virtue. its hard to tell but it appears as it was only 1/4" to 3/8" thick. when i push on the glass with my thumb on the outside shell it can be distorted fairly easily.

    does the balsa give strength to the hull?

    i was just gonna add more layers of glass to the bottom side to replace strength, but should i consider laying new balsa and covering that instead?

    is there a composite cellulose style product that would work in its place and be impervious to water?

    this boat is from 92 so its made it 20 years. i could do it with balsa again and easily expect 20 more but i really would like to have it be a never again job for me or the next guy either

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    valley springs, ca
    Posts
    1,244

    Default

    use balsa againm cut at a end of the blocks and add another section when old is out, its a bitch job but wurth it

  4. #3
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sangerfan76 View Post
    use balsa againm cut at a end of the blocks and add another section when old is out, its a bitch job but wurth it
    whats going on sanger?

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Mich
    Posts
    1,571

    Default

    They make Balsa core that is very contourable which is called scrim and they also make a foam core that is scored or double cut that conforms to curved surfaces or flat , and depending on the manufacturer foam core can also be had in scrim opposed to double cut which are all great materials to use when strength , & stiffness is desired .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 02-04-2013 at 01:04 PM.

  7. #5
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    thanks ginger. it appears the reason almost all of the balsa is rotten is because it is one continuous piece from front to back. then it was covered with glass and the bulkheads were attached to the top of the glass, covering the wood. once it started to rot it just kept going under the bulkheads to the next section. i was thinking it would be better to glass in the floating bulkheads with a bed of poly beads mixed with resin first, and then lay in the wood in the cavities between. then if one section failed it would be confined to that area. is there a reason not to do it this way? maybe the bulkheads need to have a balsa buffer so they dont stress the outside of the hull and crack it. would it be better for strength to replace it as it currently is or do it in sections as i have described?

  8. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    valley springs, ca
    Posts
    1,244

    Default

    You can do it , take your time. I have found water gets in floor wicks its way either to rear or bow through gaps. Not putting anyone one a pedestal but offshore Ginger has been a great source of info. I've read threads and learned alot. I have replaced balsa in sections . Not easy but after grinding fitting and good adhesion I can look back and say it wasn't to bad. I've learned to work with vacuum a little and it helps. Good luck. It's not as hard as it sounds . Cleaning the mess is harder.

  9. #7
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sangerfan76 View Post
    You can do it , take your time. I have found water gets in floor wicks its way either to rear or bow through gaps. Not putting anyone one a pedestal but offshore Ginger has been a great source of info. I've read threads and learned alot. I have replaced balsa in sections . Not easy but after grinding fitting and good adhesion I can look back and say it wasn't to bad. I've learned to work with vacuum a little and it helps. Good luck. It's not as hard as it sounds . Cleaning the mess is harder.
    sounds good. thanks

  10. #8
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Mich
    Posts
    1,571

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by $uperJoe View Post
    sounds good. thanks
    Joe ,like Sangerfan mentioned it really will be a walk in the park and to tell you the truth i think you just might suprise your self on how easy it really is , and beside's if you run into any problems from prep to finish feel free to ask because we can and will talk you thru the whole project if need be, and for starters could you please post up a few pics and have you given much thought on what resin you just might want to use (Epoxy , Poly , or Vinyl ) ,along with the core / Balsa or foam , because one will be cheaper then the other with Balsa being the cheapest . Sanger thank you for the complements because it is always nice to hear something of that nature if you know what i mean .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 02-05-2013 at 04:58 PM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Mich
    Posts
    1,571

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by $uperJoe View Post

    does the balsa give strength to the hull?
    Joe , i apologize for not answering this question , and yes the Balsa is there for added strength and stiffness .

  12. #10
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    i was just thinking of doing a poly resin with multiple layers of glass. add about 6 more layers to the bottom of 1.5 oz mat and 3 more to the sides up to the water line. i wasnt going to use wood if it isnt necessary. i dont like the sanding and potential for rot later. i will if its necessary, but would rather not. i have some pictures on my phone i will transfer over soon so you can see my progress. its slow and tedious but in the end i should have a naked shell to start over with inside

  13. #11
    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    I'm going to be closely watching this thread. Ian and I have a balso floor replacement project to do. Can't wait

  14. #12
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    bow to stern im about 4/5s complete on the balsa removal. i get to the back and find i should replace the transom wood since im this far into it. i should have a new boat when im done. i might need some advice on this as well ginger. i have been watching videos on youtube and there is a very complete log from one guy in texas. his videos are long and there are many. shows the complete process on his I/O. having an outboard though i would like to know if the process is different, and how do i determine how thick of wood to add back in. pics later today. from what ive done so far

  15. #13
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Mich
    Posts
    1,571

    Default Boat ?????

    Joe , maybe i missed something but what kind of boat ( make ) are you removing the Transom and Core on ?
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 02-11-2013 at 08:37 AM.

  16. #14
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
    Joe , maybe i missed something but what kind of boat ( make ) are you removing the Transom and Core on ?
    i may not have posted it. im in a few threads at this time and even though my brain can make the connection it would be impossible for you to guess. its a 1992 convincer tunnel. its only 10'2" long. im building and maybe over building so it will hold the 75hp chrysler i have. i was told it had a 75HP on it before but it looks like it was at its limits based on what ive found. i am beefing it up and rearranging the load so i do not have to keep 150 lbs playground sand in the bow as it had before
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	miniproblems 003a.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	19.5 KB 
ID:	216938   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	miniproblems 002a.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	20.5 KB 
ID:	216946  

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93