crack along the strake repair??
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crack along the strake repair??

  1. #1
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    Default crack along the strake repair??

    background story first: when i first got my boat i pulled it off the trailer and found that the seats were through drilled from the keel side in and bolts were used to hold them down. when i finally got on the water i had quite a bit of water coming from the front to the rear and expected it to be the bolts. i replaced the hex head bolts with a cone style that fits flush with the keel and epoxied over them. back at the water, water is still coming in at an uncomfortable rate. back on the trailer and inspect the repair and its solid. back in the water and get under it with some goggles and find there is a crack in the bend at the strakes on both sides near where the seat bolts were. its not visible on the trailer that there is a crack here as its all pushed together. took it home and grind out the inside and outside and repair it with poly resin and 3m coarse mat. CSM i believe from home depot, and the poly resin is napa house brand. this was done on the trailer. this was last december. its been together for 9 trips so far without issue. an out of town friend came out with me today and had to open his big fat yapper and ask "does this boat take on water" i said no as it hasnt since that repair fixed the issue. well guess what has cracked right in the same spot through the repair. not as bad as before, but i feel its just time. i have a bit more glass experience now and found my prep wasnt satisfactory back then. ill attention that much better this time.

    question time next: since the crack is only visible when the boat is floating, should i try to suspend the boat somehow to have the crack pull away before i try the repair, or try to get it mushed together and add a better layering of feathered edges on the glass, and quite a few more layers at that?

    i may be using the wrong term as far as what i call strakes. i am talking about the runners under the boat closest to the keel that run from the front to the rear of the boat
    Last edited by $uperJoe; 05-19-2013 at 10:46 PM.

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  3. #2
    DEG
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    Senior Member DEG's Avatar
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    I need pics..

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    Senior Member PuraVida Victory's Avatar
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    Im fixing the exact same thing on my boat right now. what i did was level the boat on the trailer and then trimmed my motor(outboard) down to where it just barely put a load on the transom. then i checked the bottom with a straight edge and level. then i did the glass work. ill see how it turns out when i finish it tomorrow. Good luck with it though.
    1998 Advantage 27 Victory BR
    1985 Commander 18' Closed Bow, 200HP Merc Outboard
    2012 Seadoo GTI130
    1993 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1994 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1995 19' Celebrity (sold)

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  6. #4
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    DEG do you need trailer pics or in the water pics? i may have to peel off the epoxy i smashed into the crack to get back to the trailer before i can get them so it might be a day or so

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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by $uperJoe View Post
    DEG do you need trailer pics or in the water pics? i may have to peel off the epoxy i smashed into the crack to get back to the trailer before i can get them so it might be a day or so
    We would like to see pics of the area of concern and to tell you the truth...........if you do not address this concern most likely water will wick into the crack causing more damage or de-lamination making a small problem even bigger .

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    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    delam was a concern of mine. thats why i was hoping to hear that trailer cracks would suffice. i didnt really wanna take it back to the water as it sits. ill get at that tomorrow

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    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    not the best pics cause the battery died. ill get that epoxy peeled off and some more soon
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    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    got the epoxy off and put the screw driver into the crack. it doesnt show much more but will give an idea what im up against. any thoughts how to repair this correctly? i plan a full stringer conversion but thats not for a while and would like to know this area is secure before i add that on top of where its cracking.
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    Senior Member PuraVida Victory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by $uperJoe View Post
    got the epoxy off and put the screw driver into the crack. it doesnt show much more but will give an idea what im up against. any thoughts how to repair this correctly? i plan a full stringer conversion but thats not for a while and would like to know this area is secure before i add that on top of where its cracking.
    When I get home from work today ill post the pics of what i did. I had the same exact thing happen to me. Haven't been able to test it out yet but I'm taking it this weekend to bullhead, so we will se what happens. Definitely not the easiest fix though. lots of prep work.
    1998 Advantage 27 Victory BR
    1985 Commander 18' Closed Bow, 200HP Merc Outboard
    2012 Seadoo GTI130
    1993 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1994 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1995 19' Celebrity (sold)

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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    My buddies boat did the same thing. He ground it out from the inside till it was paper thin. Then he glasses it in till it was nice and thick and spread out into the surrounding area. Then from underneath after the top was cured, he ground off the thin remaining original layer till he got back to NEW glass and then built up the bottom till it was able to be finished and painted it.

    Pretty sure thats how he did it.

    Maybe I can get him to chine in here!

  13. #11
    Senior Member PuraVida Victory's Avatar
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    Well im having problems uploading my pics, but i did the same thing. Vd out the crack, glassed from the inside then used gel coat repair to fix the crock on the outside. didn't turn out perfect, but not bad for my first time. i took it out today in Laughlin and it work perfect. not a single drop of water in the boat. took me about a week to do it.
    1998 Advantage 27 Victory BR
    1985 Commander 18' Closed Bow, 200HP Merc Outboard
    2012 Seadoo GTI130
    1993 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1994 Seadoo GTX (sold)
    1995 19' Celebrity (sold)

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    Senior Member jyeager's Avatar
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    Best way to take care of that would be to grind out all the bad (delamed) glass and chase any and all cracks till they are gone. even if you go through to the other side. repair with glass from both sides. If you only get it from one side it will most likely crack again.
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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Great thread , and very interesting ......................

  16. #14
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
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    i had mine done professionally two times & had a friend help me do it once ..then after that cracked i did it by myself & ground the hell out of it. look in the beginning of turbo wogs thread in jet boats if you havent already seen it. mine was under the stringer though. if yours is not you are real lucky. . first unbolt the damn seats from under the boat & glass that up too. its gonna plobably recrack with a hole there in the middle with all the flex. gotta find the cause . i used vinyl ester from composit one . this is what one of the boat manufactures uses. $100+ for a whole 5 gal bucket 1 gallon goes so fast sanding & relaying glass( you might not need that much ). if you have left over someone can buy the rest. the pics are small you sent i cant really tell what it looks like but i sanded all the way through & had to put tap on the inside. i was told you can soften the old glass up with Styrene Monomer. i would find the 16 grit sanding discs & hand sand too because it seems rougher than when its spinning on a grinder etc. for the final prep step that is. then use the liquid styrene monomer, lay matt down first which sticks better than woven to the old hull . i am not a pro , just so you know but got my hands pretty dirty .

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