You can make a boat to stiff???
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You can make a boat to stiff???

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    Default You can make a boat to stiff???

    Awhile back, a few members stated that when repairing/replacing stringers and floors, you could make a boat to stiff.
    i'm just wanting to hear some of the members opinions on this topic.
    so what do you think, can you apply to much fabric, fiber, resin etc and make a boat to stiff?

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldscoolcool View Post
    Awhile back, a few members stated that when repairing/replacing stringers and floors, you could make a boat to stiff.
    i'm just wanting to hear some of the members opinions on this topic.
    so what do you think, can you apply to much fabric, fiber, resin etc and make a boat to stiff?
    That does not explain why aluminum tunnel hulls work so well...... They are stiffer than a morning salute.

    That being said, I am sure there are instances when a little bit of flex and give are a good thing..


    Just don't tell that to a Spectra day cruiser......... The stringer system in those bad boys border on insane.

    Personally I like things to be crazy rigid.

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Off Road Badass Bonzen's Avatar
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    I re-fabricated a new floor, stringer and bulkhead forward of the steering wheel last year. I made everything super tight and stiff, thinking along the lines of zero flex for strength like you would building an offroad vehicle chassis. Well after a few trips, I started to get gel coat spider cracks due to the setup I did not flexing enough. So I would really research all this before you start fitting plywood together and glassing it all in. the main thing I did wrong, was I glassed in the bulkhead that goes driver-passenger side below the steering wheel in too tight to the bottom of the hull. It needs about a half inch gap all the way across it, between the bottom of the bulkhead and the inside of the hull, where it's just glass mat and resin to have a flex zone, as there is a lot of leverage at that point in a boat. Do some research on that area mostly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzen View Post
    I re-fabricated a new floor, stringer and bulkhead forward of the steering wheel last year. I made everything super tight and stiff, thinking along the lines of zero flex for strength like you would building an offroad vehicle chassis. Well after a few trips, I started to get gel coat spider cracks due to the setup I did not flexing enough. So I would really research all this before you start fitting plywood together and glassing it all in. the main thing I did wrong, was I glassed in the bulkhead that goes driver-passenger side below the steering wheel in too tight to the bottom of the hull. It needs about a half inch gap all the way across it, between the bottom of the bulkhead and the inside of the hull, where it's just glass mat and resin to have a flex zone, as there is a lot of leverage at that point in a boat. Do some research on that area mostly.
    I can understand you unfortunately having problems on your deal because of not leaving the gap between bulkhead/hull, but it seems to me if everything was laid up correctly( solid stringers, bulkheads, floors etc) that the stiffer you could make it the better.
    Only thing is, if there was a section of the boat that you could not make stiff, it would take all of the abuse/flexing and you have the dreaded stress cracks!

    I need to replace the "floor" in my SST that is on top of the tunnels and wanted to beef it up since i will have to mount seats, place diverter control, throttle etc to it.
    When i saw 2 members(and only 2 ever stated to stiff was an issue) i figured i better ask some questions.

    thanks for your .02

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    RPB
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    When repairing or upgrading be mindful that the old resin unless epoxy or phenolic was used will absorb water, will have micro and spider cracks that you cant see with naked eye, ie becomes softer/flex...the above "takes all the abuse" comment is pretty darn accurate. Spaghetti attached to steel is just that. hopefully ginger will stop in and explain this all better.
    Last edited by RPB; 06-11-2013 at 11:39 AM.

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    "hopefully ginger will stop in and explain this all better"

    I am also hoping he will chime in on this, it seems he has a ton of knowledge!!

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    Off Road Badass Bonzen's Avatar
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    Yes, basically I made the front half of the boat strong as hell and brand new, but the middle section that butted up against my new side to side bulkhead wasnt...aka natural "hinge" point for the whole hull to flex. So far, it's not too much to worry about, but im keepin an eye on it. No more bashing big wakes at full speed....

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    How are thinking of beefing up the sole? Typically on the SST the tunnels are the stringers. You are not replacing stringers or adding, strengthening bulkheads. I don't think you are going to have an issue. You might get a better answer if you title your thread "Replacing sole in SST". If you main goal is to add strength for seat mounts you might be better off just adding an additional piece of ply for the seat mount. Glass that piece to the floor and use that piece to attach the seat. This way you can mount things to the sole with zero penetration to the actual sole.

    Check this post from my Ambassador thread. I realize your seats mount differently but you get the idea.

    Got a new day cruiser

    I used the same method to mount the go pedal in my Rebel. I should have beveled the edge but since it was so small and under the carpet I didn't bother.


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    Senior Member johnf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldscoolcool View Post
    Awhile back, a few members stated that when repairing/replacing stringers and floors, you could make a boat to stiff.
    i'm just wanting to hear some of the members opinions on this topic.
    so what do you think, can you apply to much fabric, fiber, resin etc and make a boat to stiff?
    Heres how to make it stiff I think Saved old layup epoxied new stringer in and screwed, Put gussets with gaps for drainage in with epoxy and fiberglass yellow tape, epoxy and screws hold down plywood, Then epoxy along outer edge, Then a 6" 6oz cloth on perimeter before 6oz cloth over entire floor. bulkhead I moved forward and left a gap the original had a 4" gap at top! This was my first try at this! Not high quality but adequite I hope. Total investment Epoxy-$16 Cloth-$45 Resin-$125 Plywood and stringer $65 Time for demo and repair atleast 40 hours!! Have much more planned just starting!!!
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