Over spray removal
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Over spray removal

  1. #1
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
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    Default Over spray removal

    I don't know how the fuck my Tahoe got over spray all over it but it does, white to be exact. Is there anyway to remove it by cutting and buffing? I've wet sanded the hood with 3600 and tried a swirl remover to get rid of the fine scratches but that didn't work. I'm guess I need a fine scratcher remover or something a little heaver, Any suggestions?

    I don't want to wet sand this whole car, can I just pick up a compound to get rid of the over spray? Or is wet sand and Buff the entire truck the only way?
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

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    Senior Member customtouch's Avatar
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    Try using a Clay Bar on it. That will normally take off most over spray. Here is an informational link for the Meguiars version but 3M and a lot of other companies make it also.

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    Last edited by customtouch; 07-06-2013 at 06:55 PM.

  4. #3
    Senior Member almost busted's Avatar
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    yea the clay bar should do it I used them before and had great results.any autobody supply should have it just keep it clean dont drop it on the floor or it may get a chunk of dirt and then it will scratch the hell out of the paint

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    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    You might think this is all wrong....cheap lacquer thinner. I watched the guy who made $50 a year as a detailer at a GM dealership wash an entire truck with a 5 gal can of thinner...It had tar all over it from asphalt repair....and not be frugal with it either. Washed it with soap and water and power waxed it...Truck was white and looked great when he was done...got rustoleum overspray on my 03 buick...the kind you can't really see but feels like crap..even windows...hd cutting compound wouldn't touch it, wiped right off with laquer thinner...and leaves no residue..

    Your results may vary, try it on a place that doesn't show first....GM paint is plenty tough, break fluid carb cleaner, oven cleaner....might even be bullet resistant...it's the metal that gets damaged..lol
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    metalwax mike sangermike's Avatar
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    first figure out if you have a water base or oil base paint. yes lacquer thinner works great but rub it on and off with a soft rag don't let it run or sit on the paint. the clay bar you want to buy is the purple heavy bar from auto majic.

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    Default 3M Perfect It

    I had the roof of my '88 Chevy painted a while back and overspray was all over the hood and bed rails. I was working for West Marine at the time and the 3M rep happend to stop by a day or two later. I was complaining to him about the overspray and asked if 3M had any tricks. He gave me a quart of the Perfect-It and the extra cut version. The regular version didn't do much on the overspray, but the extra cut worked miracles! I have demonstrated the product to dozens of friends/family members since then and they have all been amazed.

    If you go to an auto parts store, they might be able to let you try a sample from a bottle. If it works, buy the bottle.

  9. #7
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
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    Lacquer thinner or the clay bar did nothing.

    I need to find a rub now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

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    Senior Member almost busted's Avatar
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    Hmmmmmmmmm bummer you might have to get some 1500/2000 grit wet /dry sand paper and go to town then 3 step 3m compounds and buff. this may sound crazy but a single sides razor blade ( new) and hold it at an angle and see if you can cut it down and keep changing blades often and then sand and buff I have gottin line paint off that way and that stuff is hard as hell to get off. good luck next stop a detail shop and empty wallet!!

  11. #9
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by almost busted View Post
    Hmmmmmmmmm bummer you might have to get some 1500/2000 grit wet /dry sand paper and go to town then 3 step 3m compounds and buff. this may sound crazy but a single sides razor blade ( new) and hold it at an angle and see if you can cut it down and keep changing blades often and then sand and buff I have gottin line paint off that way and that stuff is hard as hell to get off. good luck next stop a detail shop and empty wallet!!
    I don't think I need to go that coarse with the paper. I did the hood with 3600 and it took it right off. I just need to find a good compound to remove the fine scratches then a finshing compound like a swirl remover. I tried the swirl remover on the 3600 stuff but it didnt clean eveything up.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

  12. #10
    Senior Member almost busted's Avatar
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    ok might have missred that sorry. here it what I use it works really good. I just helped a guy paint and buff his car and he had cheep products and I used mine and picked a side and I ended up going over his side . If you cant get the swirl marks out you cant try waxing it in a straight line to kill the circular scratches from the buffer but go from one end of the panel to the other with the wax dont stop in the middle and go back. The circular scratches are the swirl marks. hope this helps!!
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    ptc
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    Try ACRYSOL.... get it at a body shop supply store... stuff works great and NO WORRIES about it like laquer thinner.

    Last edited by ptc; 07-16-2013 at 12:30 PM.
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  14. #12
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by almost busted View Post
    ok might have missred that sorry. here it what I use it works really good. I just helped a guy paint and buff his car and he had cheep products and I used mine and picked a side and I ended up going over his side . If you cant get the swirl marks out you cant try waxing it in a straight line to kill the circular scratches from the buffer but go from one end of the panel to the other with the wax dont stop in the middle and go back. The circular scratches are the swirl marks. hope this helps!!
    I've read good things about the perfect it.

    What I meant was I tried a swirl remover to get out the 3600 scratches and it didn't go over to well. It helped but didn't remove all the scratches. (Took a shot) ill have to get a light compound then go with the swirl remover.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

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