splatter paint technique
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splatter paint technique

  1. #1
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Default splatter paint technique

    Can anyone give me some pointers on how to do a splatter paint finish in my engine compartment/bilge area. Unless I come to my senses I will be using gel coat since I have some left over from doing the bottom work. I will be doing a white base with orange & yellow splatter and then clear over all of it. Do I need to thin the material to get nice even thin paint line? do I use a brush, stir stick or ? Would a pressure pot with only fluid pressure and the flow volumn pinched way down to a fine'r stream work? Anyone have any more modern styles of engine compartment dress up ideas? I am doing a primer coat today.

    Thanks,

    Warren

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    I have done this a couple different ways. If you are using Gel there is a webbing agent you can add to the gel thin it to desired effect and shoot. I have also shoot unthinned Laqure over Gel and clear this results in a spider web look very fine. I also did a old flat bottom with a white flow coat then took a dagger brush like pin stripers use dip the brush in can and flicked the brush. This leads to a random series of drips and long lines of color.really a neat looking effect. I have also just finished a motor compartment I used a tintable bed liner Urthane then shot clear urthane over it left a heavy wrinkle type of finish you could use one of the above methods to add spatter over the top of the bed liner and then clear.
    Last edited by doubleeagle; 10-12-2013 at 07:46 AM.

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    Default My 2 Cents

    Webbing solution is the way to go, I'm guessing you want the look that some of the boat manufactures use, and Webbing solution is how they do it. Call Sherfab @ 909-923-2200 they can hook you up

    TDS
    LRC90006
    WEBBING SOLUTION
    PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

    LRC90006 Webbing Solution is a clear liquid added to gel coat to obtain "spatter" or "cobweb" effects. It is mixed with gel coat of one color, and sprayed onto a contrasting colored surface.

    Decorative effects produced by the webbing mixture will vary, and relate directly to techniques or gun adjustments. A fine hairline spider web pattern results from plenty of air and a scanty material flow. Coarse and splotchy patterns are created by fuller material flow and decreased air volume. Experimentation will help determine the desired effect.

    TYPICAL PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS (all tests at 77 F.)


    Weight Per Gallon: 6.95 pounds


    Flash Point: - 5 Fahrenheit


    DOT classification: Flammable liquid

    VOC (EPA Method 24): 0 pounds/gallon 0 grams/liter

    Shelf Life: One year from date of shipment

    APPLICATION SUGGESTIONS:

    Stir well before using. The proper mixing ratio is one part gelcoat to three parts LRC90006 by weight. It is then catalyzed based on the gelcoat amount and sprayed over a contrasting colored surface. Alternatively, it can be sprayed into a mold and then over sprayed with a contrasting colored gel coat.

    WARNING! Vapors may cause flash fire. Use only with adequate ventilation. Keep away from heat, sparks, or open flame. Prevent build-up of vapors. Avoid prolonged contact with skin and breathing of vapors or spray mist. Close container after each use.

    Please see the Material Safety Date Sheet or call your local representative for more information.
    Last edited by GelCoatMan; 10-16-2013 at 02:15 PM.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Default

    AWESOME.... Thanks GCM! I really appreciate the tech. data. I'll add this to my order @ Sherfab. Do I use the 2.5 tip or change to a smaller tip? I have a 2.0 as well. Do I trigger the gun differently than when spraying a typical solid coat? Maybe on/off, on/off etc. to get more/less material in areas? Do I use a random or waving type gun pattern or use a typical long smooth spray stroke and the material additive does the work? And thanks again too all that replied. I sprayed a primer coat the other day to fill in voids etc. I forgot about the tack coat requirement on the transom so I have some fixin to do there. haha Thanks again.

  7. #5
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    It's actually really easy your 2.5 tip will work just fine continue to use a sweeping pattern, just do a continual triger pull. the only thing you should worry about adjusting is your air pressure. The higher the pressure the closer the web effect will be to eachother, the lower the pressure the more spread out the effect will look. Either way it's going to look good

  8. #6
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks guys for the responses. Doubleeagle, those sound like some really good ideas. Thank you. If I had more time and patients I would experiment with some of your recommendations but they sound like they're geared more toward experienced boat paint tech's and I'm just a beginner in this arena. Maybe I will try one of those after I get this one under my belt. I have a couple more projects including a Syndicate runner bottom to do next.

    Gcm- If I understand you correctly (and the mfg. tech info.) I could use a low pressure for one color and a higher pressure for another color to gain a balanced color pattern effect? (adjusting material flow accordingly of course) is that correct? I am spraying with a new ES Manuf. G860 hvlp gravity feed spray gun (decent $130.00 import deal). In my mind I envision a 70/30 ratio of white to color (colors- orange/red at 15/15%=30% in total). The mfg. states the webbing solution mix ratio as 3/1 by weight not volume. Is this a critical factor? I have a low budget postal scale I can use if necessary. Thanks again for the advise.

    I am just about done sanding out all my initial oh shits from my first failed attempt, filling pin holes, etc. and am prepairing to spray a primer coat of Prestec 2081 white primer (slightly tinted yellow for base coat contrast) to even out the foundation color. I will follow with white base, org./yel. spider coats and top coat with clear. All color coats will be Lilly/Ram prod. Clear top coat will be Prestec 27x-6.

    Some questions: If I spray pva over the primer and white base to cure, as opposed to mixing with 27x-1 for air cure and sanding between coats, will I have sufficient inner coat adhesion for my subsequent applications? Does gel coat remain open/tacky like laminating resin? If I don't sand between coats will I end up with a lumpy finish from multiple org. peel coats? This is all under an engine hatch so it doesn't need to be as flat as a deck, however I don't want to compromise at this point, invest all this time and effort and end up with a low quality lumpy finish that resembles something of a line-x bed liner building org. on org. peel. The primer lays down pretty smooth and glossy (at least mixed with 27x-1 and sagging down the transom ha hah). When I sprayed the bottom and sides with the white mixed 50/50 with 27x-1 it had a slight org. peel finish. With Offshore Ginger's guidance I learned how to color sand and buff that out to nice a finish. I have no intentions of color sanding and buffing the whole transom, bilge and floors here. I'm tired and need to just get'r done. This rebuild started 2 years ago as a low budget, simple clean up n get'r wet deal that I some how ran off course and turned into the project from hell. Go figure. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

    Warren

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    So you want to do 2 different colors for the webbing effect? yes you can definitely hit it with different pressure's to get a different webbing pattern for each color that way it doesn't all just blend in to one. Those ES guns work pretty well I have used one for years.

    As for your other question, if you spray PVA over your solid color it will cure completely and you will have to sand before you apply anything over it in order to get a mechanical bond. Gelcoat is just like laminating resin in terms of curing under the presence of air, it will stay tacky for a very long time. unless you use PVA or Surfacing agent or Prestec Additive.

  10. #8
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    so here's a couple pics. of the prep and first application of primer that I sagged the shit outa. I also had quite a few pin holes and fish eyes in this appl. so I used a polyester glazing putty to fill the holes after sanding this primer coat and prior to the next primer appl. I also filled a couple 3/4"-1" holes from plumb./rigging that I initially ignored but have decided to relocate and some low areas I wasn't fond of with a filler putty made from iso resin, aerosil and 1/8" milled fibers since I was fixing this other shit now too. Are the pin holes typical or am I doing something wrong here during lamination, prep, or ??? I didn't have this much trouble when I sprayed the bottom with 2080 primer and white/orange gel as can be seen in my avatar. That was done at another facility with a brand new sharpe filter I rigged up to work there. Guess I should either service my existing filters (cheapy oil/water separator followed by a older binks desiccant canister) or add the sharpe here too. Any other recommendations to my process as described here would be greatly appreciated. Would adding a disposable filter right at the gun be beneficial for any of these issues?
    Prior to this primer appl. the boat was very dirty from all the grinding/sanding and glassing I did under the bow and other areas so I vacuumed all the dust that would come up, then washed the whole inside down bow to stern thoroughly with a hose, then drained, wiped and let air dry for a couple days. Prior to applying the tinted 2081 gel primer I wiped all areas to be primed with clean acetone and white cloth's until clean and then followed with a tack cloth immediately before applying primer. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.
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  11. #9
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Here's a couple pics. of the pin holes and fisheye's I was talking about previously and the second more successful application of the 2081 tinted primer. Both appl. of the primer were mixed 50/50 with 27x-1 to help the material lay flatter with less orange peel. I also used a 2.0 tip assembly on this appl. I think it helped slightly with the org. peel conditions. I decided to just suck it up and sand as necessary so I went with the 27x-1 mixture. Click image for larger version.

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    Except for the pin holes and fisheyes, I'm pretty pleased with the way it turned out. I have a couple sags along the vertical portion of the floor boards between the stringer due to the fact that I tried to spray down into the 2-1/4" void between the two and didn't maintain my gun position correctly. I think I will roll this area and some other very tight areas prior to spraying the white base to help prevent this recurring. Does that sound like a reasonable approach? I regret making that area so tight, I can now see 3" would have been much better for many reasons. I had no intentions of getting this carried away with this deal at the time I made that decision. If I had a brush or roller handy when spraying and creating the saggs in the first place could I have used either of them to spread out the material and minimize or omit the sanding now required or would that just have likely made for a different mess? Thanks again for the help guys.

    Warren

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    What would be the recommended method for dealing with the pin holes at this point? On the last go-around I did fill some of them with a glazing putty. Some of them were clearly small voids in the glass and they were cleaned and filled successfully. Would these be from dust falling onto the surface as I'm spraying? It seems if that were the case by the time it dries it should have accumulated a considerable amount of trash on the surface and I'm not seeing that. These appear immediately as I am spraying the material down and only deepen with more material. Will these fill in with subsequent coats of gel coat? It would be real nice to not have these show up in the white or clear coats. Thanks again.

    Warren

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    Hey JetJunky, Looks like you have some extremely pores glass going on their. I'm not sure what you used for you laminate but I would suggest the next time around to use a low ounce cloth with a tight weave like a 4oz or 3oz just on the last lair so you can avoid all the holes that are appearing. Now that its their you have a few options. You can fill them in with a putty and the respray over the top to blend it in. You can also take the primer your using and thicken it up with aerosil and put that over the holes to fill them in and then spray so you don't have any issues with the color looking different once you respray. Either way your goal now is to fill in the pores areas. If your primer is thick enough I would apply it without using the prestec 27x1 blend and see if it will fill in the holes like that. It's definitely not fisheye from contamination though, you can tell it's different. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions

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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Warren , sometimes filling in the pin holes with glazing putty ( automotive ) is not a very good idea considering that some putties will and often disolve / break down from the different Chemicals or solvents that are used in this type of application , and yes like mentioned above using 4 oz prior to this application is a very good idea but why not just inspect the area of concern and skim all pin holes with a razor blade using a marine filler (Adtec- P-77 ) good above & below the waterline , prep , and or maybe just make a gel coat putty using Cabosil that has a Mayonnaise consistency ( moderately thickened ) which will work very well but often takes more time to cure opposed to the p-77 with a cream hardner .

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. After some thought of my issues I started looking into my inline filters and found the element in my binks was completely deteriorated and non existent. I thought all the water coming out meant the air was more moist than usual and it was still doing a good job, not. haha It did bring my attention to realize I would benefit additionally by adding some drain risers to the system and an additional filter. I have a couple trailers to modify and repaint for friends so now's the time. I now feel pretty certain most all the problems were filter system related except for the obvious glass holes. I haven't had any time to work on it since mid Nov. however I did get it sanded, filled and ready for another shot prior to that. Additionally, since it was a dirty mess from the prep sanding I removed all the dash guages and plugged the holes but haven't had time to finish glassing that up. The guages were so close together I couldn't add angled bezels so after some thought I broke down and decided to move them. The glass on the front of the dash is literally 1/4" thick. Was this material free back in 1978 or what? That seems like a whole bunch to have to fill/build back up. Have a safe and happy new years and I'll be back soon with more questions and hopefully some progress soon. Thanks again for the help.

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