More about oxidized gel coat.
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More about oxidized gel coat.

  1. #1
    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    Default More about oxidized gel coat.

    Put some serious time in on my cousins boat over the weekend. The red gel on the deck and swim platform are badly oxidized and faded. Used 1500 grit to wet sand. 3M marine rubbing compound. Then Finess it followed by 3M marine wax. All with an orbital polisher. We didn't get much improvement. It still looked pretty bad when we got it out in the sun.

    Not sure if we should have been much more aggressive the wet sanding?

    Also read about using pledge to put oils back in the gel. Does that really work? Are there other products that do the same thing?

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    I know others will call me crazy but the pledge works to keep em shining.old guy at the ramp was cleaning his with it and i followed his lead.

    I wet sand with soapy water(wash n wax style soap, not detergent soap!), 1500 followed by 2000, then i use a meguires gelcoat restoration kit(ebay), then i keep it clean with turtle wax ice detail spray and occassional pledge.i only wash gelcoat with wash n wax, otherwise its sucking any moisture the freshly exposed gelcoat mite have. thats my routine, seems to work for me.

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Oh i only use foam buffing pads too on gelcoat no wool period

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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  6. #4
    TRG
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    Not arguing here but why not anything other than foam? I personally finish with foam but when it comes to first and second cut I'll typically start with a synthetic pad then finish up with a finess-it II then the blue finish polish. Works that way with quite a few finishes. Just my personal preference.
    If you could Impatient give a list of steps? I'd be willing to try your 100% foam application, it would save on clean up from those pesky cotton balls from the cut pads

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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    LOL............ well when is the last time any of you have been to a boat Co building production boats that are in Gell Coat , and not to mention that most likely you will only see Wool pads being used because the are more durable , can be washed , and last longer then Foam .

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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    I know others will call me crazy but the pledge works to keep em shining.old guy at the ramp was cleaning his with it and i followed his lead.
    In the last 48 years i have always used Pledge on everything from Classic wooden boats , Fiberglass boats , to cars .....................very cheap shine with little work ..........

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    Senior Member almost busted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRG View Post
    Not arguing here but why not anything other than foam? I personally finish with foam but when it comes to first and second cut I'll typically start with a synthetic pad then finish up with a finess-it II then the blue finish polish. Works that way with quite a few finishes. Just my personal preference.
    If you could Impatient give a list of steps? I'd be willing to try your 100% foam application, it would save on clean up from those pesky cotton balls from the cut pads

    Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk
    i dont work on gel coat that much but i do alot of car work body paint ect restorations and i finnaly tossed all my wool pads. the foam pads have came along way to the good since they first came out. i think stuff is way easyer to buff and looks way better. if you go with foam start to finnish way less buffing marks like wool pads will leave in the finish especaly darker colors. I do know that gel is way harder to buff than paint and more sanding if its sprayed on for repair /restoration so foam may not work for the first round or two but maybe worth a try not like they are to expencive we have all takin bigger gambles than that pad cost LOL . It took alot for me to change over but happy i did and my shop stays way cleaner . just my 2 cents
    Last edited by almost busted; 06-01-2014 at 05:36 PM.

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    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Quick mention when i was with S-2 Yachts the out the door shine before shrink wrap was Johnsons Floor Wax which always seem to last longer then Pledge.

  11. #9
    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    Thanks for the responses. Which Pledge do you guys use? For wood? or Vinyl? Liquid or spray?

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Regular old school pledge or ya can get fancy and go with lemon scent lol

    todd ive jus had better luck with foam bud.as mentioned it seems to leave a better shine and much less swirl.sure they dont last long but I
    not in the biz , so they dont have to for me but i totally get what your sayin bud.

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  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bocco View Post
    with an orbital polisher.

    This is your problem, been there done that.

    The 3M stuff is incredibly sophisticated. It is designed for professionals, and must be used with professional tools because the heat makes it work.

    If you use an orbital, you will never build up the heat to have the compound break down and polish as it has been designed to do.

    I love "3M Marine Fiberglass Restorer and Wax" specifically.

    I use an inexpensive polisher from Harbor Freight, and a foam pad, and I am AMAZED at how good my boat looks after 40 years.

    If you look carefully at the instructions, 3M has specified an rpm range, and they mean it. Just like your camshaft grinder.

    Machine Application:
    1. Apply with an air or electric buffer (1500-2500 RPM) equipped with
    a 3MTM SuperbuffTM, P.N. 05700, 3MTM SuperbuffTM 2 plus 2, P.N.
    05701 or 3MTM HookitTM SBS Compounding Pad, P.N. 05711.
    2. Apply a sufficient amount of material to boat surface to work a 2’ x
    2’ area.
    3. Before starting machine, spread the material with buffing pad. This
    will reduce slinging of material and simplify clean up.
    4. Buff using light to medium pressure in a consistent uniform pattern.
    5. Reduce pressure when material begins to dry.
    6. Repeat if needed.

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