Floor? Blueprint? Duratech? ArmorCoat? sorry if double post...
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Floor? Blueprint? Duratech? ArmorCoat? sorry if double post...

  1. #1
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    Default Floor? Blueprint? Duratech? ArmorCoat? sorry if double post...

    So i'm thinking of restoring my 67 stevens... im a paint and body guy (fiberglass trucks) so the exterior of the boat shouldnt be a problem for me... but am i mistaken? the nice wood floors in these flatty's are just laid in and then glossed?? what kind of wood/plywood do you use? and then do you coat it with fiberglass resin? gelcoat? duratec? im a newby at all this so sorry for the idiocy.



    also, in your guy's opinion... what products work best for fixing dings/stress cracks in the deck and sides of the boat? grind out the damaged glass, lay shredded new glass in and resin, then cover with fibertech/kitty hair, then small amounts of pollyfill, then (if using paint for the refinish) use a 2k surfacer or even a featherfill (polyester high build filler)????? all that sound close, or are boats different than automotive (or rather heavy duty trucks smc/fiberglass) applications.

    also.... was thinking of using ArmorCoat for the clear coat on this thing (bottom and top)... anyone tried this or used this? the stuff is a thick clearcoat that is almost a little rubbery but still has awesome gloss and leveling. (cant really buff it though) however, it seems that it isnt as "slick" as normal clear (DCU2021 or the like) . so it might cause restriction in speed on the bottom of it? so just seeing if anyone has used it or not.

    when you blue print the bottom... just sand/fill all imperfections? then make it as flat and "true" as possible?

    i have 2 fins toward the front on the bottom that seem to be slightly bent... any way to straighten these or just have to replace? (boat pulls to the left harder than i think it should)

    also,,,,, i live in MT so getting these products are not the normal thing to do,,, any recommendations on where to get these online? which leads to my next question

    i want to replace the strut bushing and some other v drive specific parts... recommendations on where to get these also?

    thanks for all the help

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  3. #2
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    First off have you taken a straight edge to the bottom of the boat #2 Why would you want to use a clear coat that is hard to buff and rubbery # 3 Might I suggest grinding out all cracks that are a concern / re-glassing them with fabric , CSM .........depending on what resin you are going to use , Epoxy / Poly or Vinyl , and skipping all Tiger hair all together #4 if you are going to use a filler I .............would use a filler that is good above and below the waterline , and do your floors really need to be replaced or is there some rot or de lamination going on because pics would really help before I go any further .

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    No I haven't taken a straight edge to the bottom... I haven't even flipped it over... As I stated im thinking about starting this project. I'm not anticipating alot of work on it but in the event I need to "blue print" the bottom then pointers would be awesome. Nothing is rotting on the floor and it has all actually been done not to long ago by a previous owner, however, there is not "wood" in the floor. The stringers and floor are just the fiberglass and have been painted with some kind of marine grade paint. Almost like what a guy would use in the automotive world as an "undercoating" (not saying the paint is an undercoat, just an equivalent example... The paint on The floor has.been applied with a roller or brush and is clearly not like a ppg base/clear or single stage). My question of how to do a floor was because I would like to black out the stringers and then make the floor that nice wood look with a fairly acceptable gloss on it. How do I do this? Are all floors this wood? Someone's just painted mine? Or is it just a lay in wood that is put in almost like "aftermarket". How do I do this? Or am I way confused here? The reason for a "almost" rubbery clear (that yes is hard to buff) is because im not doing a show boat here, just want a finish that will last a long time and be durable... Armorcoat is WAY more durable than clear coat and still has an almost perfect match to the quality of gloss in most high end clears... You just don't buff it, but it lasts FOREVER (or at least way longer than clear does) it resists dings profoundly... I was thinking it would be a great product for a boat, but having never tried it I figured I would ask to see if anyone has had experience with using it in marine applications. As I mentioned, I'm not looking for a show boat, just a nice boat for many future years of abuse. Also, its still in storage so I don't have any pics. Just to put any confusion I have about glass and resin and repair procedures... Can you give kinda a pro/con of the different types of resins and why one over the other? Also, what would you recommend for a filler that is good below the water line? Examples? Preferences'? Thanks. sorry if post is messed up, this is from a mobile device

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  6. #4
    Senior Member uniboarder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melinko09 View Post
    No I haven't taken a straight edge to the bottom... I haven't even flipped it over... As I stated im thinking about starting this project. I'm not anticipating alot of work on it but in the event I need to "blue print" the bottom then pointers would be awesome. Nothing is rotting on the floor and it has all actually been done not to long ago by a previous owner, however, there is not "wood" in the floor. The stringers and floor are just the fiberglass and have been painted with some kind of marine grade paint. Almost like what a guy would use in the automotive world as an "undercoating" (not saying the paint is an undercoat, just an equivalent example... The paint on The floor has.been applied with a roller or brush and is clearly not like a ppg base/clear or single stage). My question of how to do a floor was because I would like to black out the stringers and then make the floor that nice wood look with a fairly acceptable gloss on it. How do I do this? Are all floors this wood? Someone's just painted mine? Or is it just a lay in wood that is put in almost like "aftermarket". How do I do this? Or am I way confused here? The reason for a "almost" rubbery clear (that yes is hard to buff) is because im not doing a show boat here, just want a finish that will last a long time and be durable... Armorcoat is WAY more durable than clear coat and still has an almost perfect match to the quality of gloss in most high end clears... You just don't buff it, but it lasts FOREVER (or at least way longer than clear does) it resists dings profoundly... I was thinking it would be a great product for a boat, but having never tried it I figured I would ask to see if anyone has had experience with using it in marine applications. As I mentioned, I'm not looking for a show boat, just a nice boat for many future years of abuse. Also, its still in storage so I don't have any pics. Just to put any confusion I have about glass and resin and repair procedures... Can you give kinda a pro/con of the different types of resins and why one over the other? Also, what would you recommend for a filler that is good below the water line? Examples? Preferences'? Thanks. sorry if post is messed up, this is from a mobile device
    Blue printing the bottom means straitening the runners and pulling any hook out of the transom.
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  7. #5
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uniboarder View Post
    Blue printing the bottom means straitening the runners and pulling any hook out of the transom.
    AND square up all edges, not big round crap. Look at the bottom of any fast, real offshore boat. Big round edges are big, slow, and suck.
    Wags

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