Plywood for seat frames
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Plywood for seat frames

  1. #1
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    Default Plywood for seat frames

    Need to update some seats. Old Seats had 1/2 acx with
    a resign coat.
    What Type and thickness is best to build new seat frames.
    thanks for all input

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  3. #2
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    Can be expensive but Starboard/Marineboard/Seaboard might be an option. Won't ever rot. trouble is finding a place local that carries it - shipping is very expensive.

  4. #3
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    Default Plywood

    AC plywood is all that you will need for seat frames. It has the same glue as marine ply. The only difference is that marine usually has more plys and most of the core voids are filled. If you want to get really fancy you can use 4x8 Baltic Birch. It will be extremely strong and looks really nice. If you use the Baltic Birch, make sure that you use 4x8 and not 5x5 because the 4x8 has waterproof glue and the 5x5 does not have waterproof glue. Most hardwood plywood is made with interior (non waterproof) glue.

    When you coat the frames, make sure that you coat the edges along with the face and back. Coating the edges will keep moisture from entering the plys , causing the wood to swell. The swelling, due to moisture, is usually what causes delamination in plywood.
    Last edited by Checkmate21; 04-10-2015 at 05:37 PM.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    How long did the existing int. last? Are you going to duplicate what's there or change it up a bit? Have any pics of the boat/int. currently? How much work do you want to put into the rebuild? Lot's of options, questions and routes to go with.

  7. #5
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    jetjunky
    thanks for the info
    decided to use 1/2 birch from box store says glue water resistant? looks good i am only
    recovering front seat-[full bench front/rear]rest of the seats should make a few more years.
    then i will have to do a full rebuild. at that time boat will need full restoration
    should be a good test. Next question ran out of resign but have 2 quarts duretic
    top shield left from floor-out of date manuf 5/1/14 [kept indoors and cool]
    any comments if it would work for a sealer?
    When i get done i will post some pictures
    thanks for any info

  8. #6
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    Default Be Careful with Birch

    Be real careful and check out the birch plywood. Most all of the hardwood plywood is made with interior glue. Check and see if it has a poplar core. If it does, DO NOT use it. It WILL come apart. If it is Chinese plywood, it most likely has a poplar core and should never be used in a permanent installation. Most box stores carry chinese birch.

    The reason that hardwood plywood uses interior glue, is because the exterior glue will transfer thru the thin veneers when it is stained and finished. Exterior glue is much darker in color.

    If the birch that you bought is Baltic Birch, you should be good to go. If the plywood that you bought has any core overlap when looking at the edges, do NOT use it. It most certainly is from China, with a poplar core. Baltic Birch is about the nicest plywood that you can buy!

    If the Birch that you bought is not Baltic Birch, DO NOT USE IT! Baltic Birch is around twice the price of regular birch plywood and comes from the Russia area. To be waterproof, Baltic Birch has to be 4x8, the 5x5 generally is NOT waterproof.

    Go to a real lumberyard or a plywood company and you will be able to get the correct material for your intended use. Not trying to be a downer, just don't want you to do all that work and expense of upholstery to have it come apart. Skip

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    thanks for the good info. Says its from oregon, let u know what i find

  10. #8
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    did some checking-of course i cut first piece rootered sanded started to seal.
    thanks for helping me before i went to far. Any body need a slightly used pc of
    plywood?
    Going to call local lumber yard in am and get real wood.
    thanks for all the info saved me a big mistake

  11. #9
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Default duratec

    I'm not familiar with that product to say with any certainty. I would think it might be ok as a final coat if it uses mekp as a curing agent. I like to use a pre-impregnate coat of resin to seal the wood deeper into the ply's. I start with a 50/50 mix of gen. purpose poly resin and acetone and double the hardener per volume. I apply that generously until the wood stops absorbing it, then let it cure. Then top coat it with 2 coats of resin and adding wax to the final coat for complete air cure. The duratec would likely work as a good finish coat. OG or EE would likely have the best info on that products application for your purpose.

  12. #10
    Senior Member 787chuck's Avatar
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    X 2 on the Baltic birch

  13. #11
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    jetjunky
    went an pickuped piece of marine plywood. What a difference in quality[and price]
    Thanks for the info on thinning the resign. Tried before but it took a long time to dry.
    Had to put it in heated room.I figured because it wasn't thick enough to catalyze.
    thanks for the info will try tonight.

  14. #12
    Seriously off center slowride's Avatar
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    I used 3/8" Birch ply from Home Depot when I made replacement frames. Long lasting wasn't really a concern as I knew it would be gutted and new installed in a season or two, but after 2 years it was still in great shape. I resin washed everything before reinstalling the vinyl, so there were no moisture problems.
    '89 Commander open bow jet... high and dry






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