balsa & veneer flooring Questions
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balsa & veneer flooring Questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member cory09's Avatar
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    Default balsa & veneer flooring Questions

    hey guys whats up! i just have some questions about redoing a shovelnose v-drive floor.
    im kinda stumped on how it works any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    so you lay down the veneer or balsa glue it to the floor? and then do you
    fiberglass over this??? then shoot your? gel? duratech? or what do YOU use?

    sorry just curious to how you guys have done it and how you go about it.

    does anyone have pictures of the whole process or laying the veneer or balsa and whatever you do next to it????


    thanks guys!! sorry for the noob questions haha.

    ANY PICS OR ANYHTING IS HELPFUL....
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    Last edited by cory09; 09-08-2015 at 07:20 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Default Glue

    Hi, I'm kinda in the same boat as you are on the flooring. So trial and a lot of errors has slowed my completion down a lot. I used contact cement on the first mahogany veneer. The spray can contact cement. It worked great until I started with the resin top coat. The veneer wouldn't stay down. So I chased bubbles until the resin hardened enough and still there was a lot of small high spots.
    The coat sealed well and knocked down the high spots. I then thought I would do some stripes on the seams of the wood and the floor. The paint went down perfect. HOK Back and silver/blue candy. Cool I thought.... Looks great..... Time for another flow coat, then finish the sanding on the stringers and the final coat is near.
    The weather changed about 10 deg cooler then when I mixed the first flow resin. So it was a little slower to harden. Those stripes started to come up and jump out of the resin, the veneer started rolling again too. So I grab the veneer and pulled it out of the boat and made myself a cocktail.
    A lot of sanding to get back to square one.
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  4. #3
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    Default Glue

    So, I ordered more of the veneer and went with an African ribbon mahogany this time, I figured if I was going to F$$$ it up it might as well be the good chit.
    I discussed the issue of the veneer not laying down on the last try. I was told to use the contact cement but to let it gas out at least 48 hours before flow coating. This is where am today. With 1 flow coat down and ready for the stripes. This time no bumps or bubbles.
    More to come.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member OFFSHORE GINGER's Avatar
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    Default

    Just curious how thick is your Veneer , almost paper thin or ............and why contact cement ?

  7. #5
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    Thumbs up

    Yes it is thin, it has a paper backing. It sure is easy to work with and it cuts nice.
    The contact cement was suggested by a boat guy that has done many floors and stringer raps ect.
    I just finnished the redo floor.. It came out nice. I guess the secret was to have patients and no rushing. It's just so boring watching Paint dry.
    I'll try to post pics later.👍

  8. #6
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    Default Redo

    Here are some pictures of the floor with the first flo coat after all is said and done. Every thing stayed down and did it's job. Now its time to sand and prep the stringers and outer floors for the final coats. Some of the blue candy did wash a little with the first top coat but not enough to worry about. At 60 mph you won't even notice it.
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  9. #7
    '74 Sanger ski hydro the General's Avatar
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    Looks great, anymore pics?
    87 Kustom Kraft open bow cruiser jet
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  10. #8
    Italian-Rage rich's Avatar
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    Default

    That looks great can't wait to see it done ,keep pictures coming

  11. #9
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

    I did a balsa floor in my Hondo flat, it took a ridiculous amount of time and work and I'll never do it again. I used epoxy (US Composites) to redo my floor and I had a lot of advise from Offshore Ginger. I used epoxy because it's easy to work with, light and flexible but glass will work also.

    First I ground out all the old glass, days upon days of standing on my head grinding - it's horrible work.
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  12. #10
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

    After grinding the old glass out I epoxied 1/4" end grain balsa down over the old wood, sorry didn't take any pictures with just the balsa down. I block sanded the balsa a few times to make sure it was perfectly flat. After that I covered the entire floor with 2 layers of cloth and lots of epoxy resin.
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    Last edited by OhHondoGT; 01-06-2016 at 07:19 PM.

  13. #11
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

    Did the rough finish sanding and started fitting up new hardware.
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    Last edited by OhHondoGT; 01-06-2016 at 06:40 PM.

  14. #12
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

    So after hardware mock up it was back to sanding. I redid the black (colored epoxy) because I was totally happy with my lines the first time.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

    After sanding everything again I finally shot the top coats of clear. I used a product called DiamondFinish clear by KBB coatings, it's water based and one component. I have to say it was very difficult to spray but I am an amateur, I sanded and reapplied it a few times to get it right and then I block sanded and colored sanded forever - then I finally buffed the whole floor. In hindsight I wished I would have tried Duratech product but I didn't know about it when I did my floor. Middle pic is my dad helping me buff, the other pics are right after we got done buffing. It turned out pretty good but I will say again, a ridiculous amount of work and time to get it done.
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    Last edited by OhHondoGT; 01-06-2016 at 07:03 PM.

  16. #14
    Senior Member OhHondoGT's Avatar
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    Default Balsa Floor

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ID:	832865Here's a few pics of it going back together with the hardware all powder coated.
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    Last edited by OhHondoGT; 01-06-2016 at 07:15 PM.

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