Post "IN PROGRESS" RE-METALFLAKE PHOTOS & HOW TO INFO
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Post "IN PROGRESS" RE-METALFLAKE PHOTOS & HOW TO INFO

  1. #1
    Senior Member A handfull's Avatar
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    Default Post "IN PROGRESS" RE-METALFLAKE PHOTOS & HOW TO INFO

    Hello. I know a lot of us have tried to re-flake a boat in our long list of boat projects. Most of us that have tried, swore that we would never attempt it again.

    We have tried many methods...many guns...many mixing ratios..many intercoat clears for flakes...waited forever for clearcoats to dry...and of course had leftover flakes that remained in the shop for years afterwards.

    I have had a few jobs come out decent but there has to be a tried and true method for spraying flakes and gel coat...and above all..getting those coats to flow out halfway decent...so that we are not sanding a "ceiling texture" surface back down prior to buffing.

    HAS ANYONE USED THE MONSTER SQUARE flake?

    Please give us some insight. NAME PRODUCT LINES, GEL-COAT BRANDS, MIXING RATIOS, FLAKE GUNS, RECOAT TIMES, FINAL SAND GRITS, FINAL COMPOUNDS AND PADS.

    THANKS!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member A handfull's Avatar
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    Cool Here is a large apricot metalflake Diamond/DiMarco splash that I re-flaked

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    Last edited by A handfull; 09-18-2015 at 04:49 PM.

  4. #3
    Senior Member A handfull's Avatar
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    Default Years ago this Sanger was done. Not by me. I tried to buy it before he reflaked it.

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    He said that he gel-coated this boat...not automotive clear coat. It also turned out nice enough that he decided to keep it.
    Last edited by A handfull; 09-18-2015 at 04:50 PM.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member inthecurl's Avatar
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    Default

    My steps I take whether I am painting my own boat or a customers is like this with a base/clear urethane:
    i first start by sanding entire boat with 120 grit. I hate to go any courser unless I have to.
    After entire boat is sanded and any major bodywork performed I spray boat with Feaherfill primer. Usually takes a full gallon. Then I spray a guide coat and longboard hull with 120 grit. Fix any imperfections as they show up, then spray another gallon of Featherfill. Depending how straight it is (which usually pretty good after 2 gallons on Featherfill and most sanded off for a straight boat) I move to longboard once more between 180-280 grit. After I am happy with shape of hull I then spray hull with a urethane primer surfacer. I spray the surfacer to prep base coat and because I want to wet sand to prep for paint (Featherfill acts like a sponge when water is applied and takes a long night time to dry - not worth risking wet spots at this point). I then wetsand hull to 600. Let dry at least overnight. My prep may be overkill, but I have never had any issues so I stick with it cause it works for me.
    I then lay by base coat with usually a slow to medium reducer. I like slow for anything over about 75 degrees. After last coat has dried at least for a hour I get my inter coat clear out. I have had great luck with VooDoo flakes at .015 size. Not massive flake but a decent size and can be sprayed thru my 1.8 tip very easily. I mix the flake with a House Of Color inter coat clear. Spray as much flake as I am happy with - usually 2-3 coats, then let dry to appropriate time. I then start spraying 3 coats of clear. I let clear dry at least 24 hours. I will then come back and sand boat with 1200 grit wet and then spray 3 more coats of clear.
    yes, super time consuming, but very happy with results so far... Again, this is what works for me. I am sure guys have other ways to doing it, but this is what works for me.
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