Best Wax For a Boat
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Best Wax For a Boat

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    Senior Member JetBoatCop's Avatar
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    Default Best Wax For a Boat

    This may have already been discussed on here, but I didn't see a thread. I'm in the process of wetsanding and want to know what is the best wax to use on a boat. I know some are bad to use. I want to know what will protect it. Also, I've never used a buffer and I'm planning to go buy one, but I'm confused sort of about something. Do you put the compound or polish on by hand and then buff it with the buffer, or do you put the compound on the wheel, apply it, then switch wheels and buff it? Thanks
    '78 Taylor SS 460 BBF, Under Construction
    '03 Glastron SF 185 18', 4.3 Volvo Penta
    '95 Dodge Cummins 3500 4x4 Single Cab, Dually, Triple Gauges, and some pump work!

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    Senior Member JetBoatCop's Avatar
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    Also, are you supposed to wash the surface after you use the rubbing compund, but before you use the polish? Sorry for all the questions guys. I just want to make sure I'm doing this right while I'm just doing this swim step before I start on the actual boat. Thanks
    '78 Taylor SS 460 BBF, Under Construction
    '03 Glastron SF 185 18', 4.3 Volvo Penta
    '95 Dodge Cummins 3500 4x4 Single Cab, Dually, Triple Gauges, and some pump work!

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    i heard if the boat is painted, its a bad idea to use the buffer. if it is gel'ed then its no problem. just my .02 of what i heard from a couple guys

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    Senior Member JetBoatCop's Avatar
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    how do you tell if it's gelled or not? Im still not sure how to tell. I know gel is thicker, but thats it. Thanks
    '78 Taylor SS 460 BBF, Under Construction
    '03 Glastron SF 185 18', 4.3 Volvo Penta
    '95 Dodge Cummins 3500 4x4 Single Cab, Dually, Triple Gauges, and some pump work!

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JetBoatCop View Post
    how do you tell if it's gelled or not? Im still not sure how to tell. I know gel is thicker, but thats it. Thanks
    i've seen pics of your ss, its gel. start out with 1000 grit, wet sand the whole thing with it, go back with 1500, then 2000, then buff the shiat outta it. if there's any swirls, use swirl remover, then hand or machine glaze. then i seal it with carnuba wax. after that its shiny as its gonna get, i use turtle wax "ice" liquid detailer and liquid wax to keep it shiny. the ice was makes everything shiny, rubrail, vinyl, rubber, don't matter what ya get it on, it doesn't turn white like wax. hope that helps, i know its alot of work, but the end result is always worth it.

    when i pull outta the lake, i spray the boat down with the turtle wax "ice" detailer spray, then wipe it down. it keeps it shining and clean. i only wax once a summer.

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    Senior Member ClassicBoats's Avatar
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    keep the rpms low on the buffer so you dont burn the gel.

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    DON'T USE CARNAUBA! It starts off "yellow-ish" and turns slightly more yellow after it's cooked on (sun).

    The boat detailing guy from Havasu that was on HB (Doug? Dan? a D-name I believe) had mentioned that just before HB went down. It makes sense, if you look at Carnauba wax in paste or liquid form, it is yellow.

    Without going into "professional" clear waxes/sealants, I have been trying the new TurtleWax ICE synthetic. I first tested it on the boat while standing around at the SandBar. You can apply it in direct sun!

    I just put it on the truck before a show and it really perked up the red.

    With as much work as you are putting into it, I would apply that to it.

    Just my experience.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Default In Fact,

    This is a shot right after I had ICE'd it. No trick photography with the sunbursts. It is just plain glossy.



    Seems to protect really well. I went out to Dumont with it and it was absolutely FILTHY. The drive home took most of the dirt right off!
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCal Detail View Post
    Not true. Pure Carnauba is yellow. And it will not yellow your gel as long as you wipe it all off. Use 100% terry cloth towels not microfiber, microfiber clogs the gels pores. Start off by wet sanding 800-1200 finish with 2000-3000. Compound with 3M wool pad at about 1200-1400 rpm. Follow up with a good quality Carnauba wax, the reason being is gel is a porse surface, so you need to condition the surface with a oily wax to keep the surface "moist" Synthetics and teflons will dry out your gel over time and make it chalky.
    Wow. Great, now there's conflicting info.

    And, I am sure you meant porous (having pores).
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    SoCalDetail, let me ask you this:

    I grew up working in bodyshops, so sanding and buffing are old-hat to me.

    GELCOAT is somewhat new to me as far as care. The Sleek is showing just a light haziness in a "blotchy" fashion.

    Is sanding necessary? Or would a wool pad with compound take that off? I know you can't see it, but it is real light and only can be seen if you are looking for it. If it needs sanding, fine, I've got 1500 and 2500 and a Milwaukee polisher with all three pads.

    If it will just take a good compounding and polishing, it will leave me some more gel for later.

    Thoughts, if you will?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    TRG
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    For wax's i always use bananna and cherry's (Wax), they are natural oil bases, and do absolutly no harm to your gel'd surface and provide the wet look as opposed to the many coats applied and reapplied when using a carnuba.
    I am a shop that houses Absolutly no carnuba, because FACT, carnuba yellows all colors of gel mostly whites and blues, a couple of years ago i layed up two parts of sheet glass, simulating the top of a boat (white) one polished and finished with a carnuba wax, and the other with Auto magic's bananna wax
    both were cut with "yacht brite's" buffing compound and finished with 3M's grey foam pad polish w/ grey foam pad, both were placed on my roof at the shop during a winter month (Not busy at the time! LOL) i pulled the parts down a month or so later and the carnuba was dried out and yellow, Just from one polishing session and the other finished with the Banana wax was pretty bad as well!....i washed them both and applied the same wax as used before and the carnuba would not shine, but the banana wax'd sheet shined up and could have used a bit of polishing where as the carnuba needed a w/sand and polish because of the yellowing, proof that i dont need that kind of a headache coming back to haunt me, i do know that all of the polishes will make anything shine but as for durability and longevity im gonna stay with the banana's and cherry's!
    I dont wish to ruffle any feathers on this subject, but, i deal with finishes in my Boat repair facility (TRG fiberglass 626-991-9031) on a day-in day-out basis, i am a one man shop and get my hands on every single project that comes in the door, the way i see it, if you dont mind a bit of yellowing, use carnuba, if you want a nicer looking piece in the long run use something other than carnuba, but in the bare minimum, keep your boat wax'd it will keep a longer life.
    Todd

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    TRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCal Detail View Post
    Todd I have used Banana wax the problem I have with that wax is it is a SOLVENT based wax. Trust me I have used waxes on cars with kerosine in it and the results are amazing but long term you are just harming the finish. As far as Cherry's wax (which I do use on cars) the ingredients are premium grade carnuba and detergent resistant polymers for a wet-look shine. I have been in the detailing business for 21 years now, I have seen, used and given so many products and in my opinion teflons and polymers cant touch carnauba. But again different strokes for different folks. I always advise people to try every product they can get there hands on but most importantly look at the ingredients. Mark
    Mark, what are your thoughts on Yacht brite's "Buff magic" for cutting after w/s? and at what grit do you start your polishing.
    Todd

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCal Detail View Post
    The "blotchy" is coming from gel dry out. I would try using the compound and wool pad first. If it is not buffing out then go to wetsanding.
    Thank you, sir. I feel the same. It appears to be "surface oxidation", if you will. Should just buff off.

    Thanks again.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Sounds like a good discussion.

    These were done by hand.
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