Question about prep between layers of glass
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Question about prep between layers of glass

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    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Default Question about prep between layers of glass

    I'm shortening the pod on my jet boat, and I've got a question regarding the prep work required between coats. I'm using some "Boater's Resin" from West Marine, which is a waxed resin. I understand that I have to sand between coats. I'll probably be doing 2 layers on each side of the material. Is grinding 100% of the surface absolutely necessary, or will a wipe down with acetone dissolve remove the wax from the surface as well? I'm just concerned about some of the corners that are hard to get to and will not be finished and painted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    I'm shortening the pod on my jet boat, and I've got a question regarding the prep work required between coats. I'm using some "Boater's Resin" from West Marine, which is a waxed resin. I understand that I have to sand between coats. I'll probably be doing 2 layers on each side of the material. Is grinding 100% of the surface absolutely necessary, or will a wipe down with acetone dissolve remove the wax from the surface as well? I'm just concerned about some of the corners that are hard to get to and will not be finished and painted.
    Yes it would be a problem if you do not hit the surface with an abrasive and the reason being is because there is wax in the resin which will cause a major bonding issue and if you do not want to grind use a D-A with #36 grit. Just my 2 cents
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 08-26-2010 at 06:22 PM.

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    There are two kinds of bonds, chemical and physical. If you let the resin set up...but it's within a window of time...then the next layer will chemically bond and will essentially be one piece...no sanding required. If the resin cures past that point, there will be no chemical bond...so you now are relying on a physical bond. The acetone will remove the wax...but it's still too slick to get a strong bond. You need the 36 grit to rough the surface to give the resin something to hold onto...

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    Hey guy personaly i would not rely on a chemical bond with wax in the resin after it has kicked and gotten hard . I have to say that in my opinion a physical bond would be your best bet just to have piece of mind and besides whats a little grinding or sanding with #36 grit
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 08-26-2010 at 03:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
    Hey guy personaly i would not rely on a chemical bond with wax in the resin after it has kicked and gotten hard . I have to say that in my opinion physical would be your best bet just to have piece of mind and besides whats a little grinding or sanding with #36 grit
    I plan on grinding all I can, but I've got some inside corners, and there are going to be some low spots that will be hard to get to with the grinder without making more low spots, so I was just wondering if Acetone would suffice for the little speckles here and there that won't catch the grinder...say around the edges of where I've applied mat. I understand now that it is not. I'll grind it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    I plan on grinding all I can, but I've got some inside corners, and there are going to be some low spots that will be hard to get to with the grinder without making more low spots, so I was just wondering if Acetone would suffice for the little speckles here and there that won't catch the grinder...say around the edges of where I've applied mat. I understand now that it is not. I'll grind it.
    Just curious can you show any pics and just wondering can you hand sand those area's or use a die grinder and come in and fill those low areas making a resin putty with Cabosil using a hobby stick making a nice radius in those areas mentioned and then doing your layup ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
    Just curious can you show any pics and just wondering can you hand sand those area's or use a die grinder and come in and fill those low areas making a resin putty with Cabosil using a hobby stick making a nice radius in those areas mentioned and then doing your layup ?
    No pictures, sorry. I can get 'em with a die grinder...I've got some 36 grit rolls I've been using for the tight spots. I'm gonna try and laminate 2 layers of mat on the inside in one shot, then 2 layers on the outside in one shot, then fill/block/paint.

    I've got a couple can's of the long strand bondo fiberglass stuff (aside from being an absolute bitch to work with...seems damn strong)...is this OK to use as filler or should I go get some cabosil or microballoons?

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    "Liquid-Open time
    Open time (also working time or wet lay-up time) is the portion of the cure time, after mixing, that the resin/hardener mixture remains a liquid and is workable and suitable for application. All assembly and clamping should take place during the open time to assure a dependable bond.
    Gel-Initial cure
    The mixture passes into an initial cure phase (also called the green stage) when it begins to gel or "kick-off." The epoxy is no longer workable and will progress from a tacky, gel consistency to the firmness of hard rubber, which you will be dent with your thumbnail.

    Because the mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it, so the surface may still be bonded to or recoated without special preparation. However, this ability diminishes as the mixture approaches final cure.
    Solid-Final cure
    The epoxy mixture has cured to a solid state and can be dry sanded and shaped. You should not be able to dent it with your thumbnail. At this point the epoxy has reached about 90% of its ultimate strength, so clamps can be removed. It will continue to cure over the next several days at room temperature."

    I took this from the west website...better than I can say it...but since yours has already cured...

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    ptz
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    use laminating resin you will be much happier.
    save the sanding resin for surfboards.
    monkey love

    "why is my stuff shit... and your shit stuff ?"

    "If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." Samuel Adams

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    I would use laminating resin, but the closest place I know of that sells it is Shurfab, and I can't make it there and back on my lunch break. West Marine is on the way home, but they don't really sell the good stuff....plus I already had a mostly full gallon can of the boatyard stuff from a previous project on the boat I crashed. Performance should be same if I prep it correctly between coats right?
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 08-26-2010 at 05:23 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lebel409 View Post
    "Liquid-Open time
    Open time (also working time or wet lay-up time) is the portion of the cure time, after mixing, that the resin/hardener mixture remains a liquid and is workable and suitable for application. All assembly and clamping should take place during the open time to assure a dependable bond.
    Gel-Initial cure
    The mixture passes into an initial cure phase (also called the green stage) when it begins to gel or "kick-off." The epoxy is no longer workable and will progress from a tacky, gel consistency to the firmness of hard rubber, which you will be dent with your thumbnail.

    Because the mixture is only partially cured, a new application of epoxy will still chemically link with it, so the surface may still be bonded to or recoated without special preparation. However, this ability diminishes as the mixture approaches final cure.
    Solid-Final cure
    The epoxy mixture has cured to a solid state and can be dry sanded and shaped. You should not be able to dent it with your thumbnail. At this point the epoxy has reached about 90% of its ultimate strength, so clamps can be removed. It will continue to cure over the next several days at room temperature."

    I took this from the west website...better than I can say it...but since yours has already cured...
    Hey guy not to be rude but you can send all this text book BS down the pike you want and claim to be an expert but the bottom line is............unless you have actually done this other then reading it ....there will always be a prick like me ....that has been there and done that other then reading it on a website and the bottom line is..... he is going to use a boaters resin that he purchased from WEST MARINE which most likely is Poly or Vinyl and not Epoxy and seeing that you are quoting things from the makers of west System WHO are the Gougeon Brothers out of Bay City Mich which is a web site designed for there product and that is EPOXY RESIN ( which ) is not Boaters Resin from West Marine ! Dugh .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 08-27-2010 at 07:52 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ptz View Post
    use laminating resin you will be much happier.
    save the sanding resin for surfboards.
    Iagree

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    Man Ya gota love this guy, wont give anyone a break;
    "Hey guy not to be rude but you can send all this text book BS down the pike you want and claim to be an expert but the bottom line is............unless you have actually done this other then reading it ....there will always be a prick like me ....that has been there and done that other then reading it on a website and the bottom line is..... he is going to use a boaters resin that he purchased from WEST MARINE which most likely is Poly or Vinyl and not Epoxy and seeing that you are quoting things from the makers of west System WHO are the Gougeon Brothers out of Bay City Mich which is a web site designed for there product and that is EPOXY RESIN ( which ) is not Boaters Resin from West Marine ! Dugh .

    I thought maybe it was me presentation, now I know, "I'm OK"

    Sorry for the jack, Be safe. schick
    Half the people in the world are below average.

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    Shick , i always try to give people the benefit of the doubt just not you and in a sense i am no better then you, as far as being rude and if you .... would have not quoted me on post #11 i would have re written the post in a more tasteful manner and the bottom line is i owe lebel #49 an apologie for being so rude in my last post. Shick i see you still have that message on your sig line that states half the people in the world are below average and does that still mean you fall into that catagory and if you think you are OK you are sadly mistaken ? Shick , just curious have you gotten any answers to your questions about your boat at this time and the funny thing is i could help you with some of those anwsers but ...........i wont !! LEBEL #49 I apologize to you Sir
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 08-27-2010 at 12:35 PM.

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