Thread:

Shovelhead im working on...

While you're in the primary do your friend a solid...eliminate the stock inner primary chain oiler system and convert the primary to a 'sealed primary' wet-clutch system.
What this does is eliminate all that dirty, clutch dust filled oil with starter/ring metal etc from being sucked back in with the engine oil. Once all the proper set-up is done you'll need Barnette wet/dry clutches and add 30wt or 10/40 oil up to the bottom of the clutch hub.
I did mine over 10 years ago works nice.

Originally Posted by NO BUTT NO PUTT

...Hammerdown, Have you ever had this problem with yours?
If you let it sit for a couple days, then go to start it, it pumps oil out of the oil pump dump line untill it warms up. The guy that owns it said its the brass ball in there. But I dont see one. It only has a gear drive.

I never saw a "brass" ball used...it's always steel.
I know exactly what's doing on >...oil is weeping past the check ball in the pump and collecting in the lower end...once the engine is fired the flywheels are pulling the oil up and it's being scraped off by a casting scraper in the left/right side of the case halfs...there it's being picked up by the breather gear/cavity and loaded into the carb or the driveway via hose >if that's where the owner has his breathing tube routed as most of us do....the check ball in the pump is out of round and/or the seat for that ball needs to be resurfaced.
1)The fix...JIMS sells a tool to re cut the seat>the pump must be off to do this.
2)You can 'lap' the seat by tacking a new check ball to a long rod and go at it with a few turns of lapping compound. Pump must be removed and flushed clean of laping compound!
3)Also...what I've done several times with great results it to > purchase two 'new' check balls, remove the spring and with a long magnet pull out the existing check ball >toss it.
Drop in a new check ball and with a long skinny drift/punch and a steady hand give the check ball a solid yet gentle tap-tap-tap. Extract the check ball and toss it...drop in the 'virgin' check ball with a good spring and if done right, problem solved. DON'T wack it like you're driving a 20 penny nail or you'll crack the seat...and need a new pump body.

What happens is the soft aluminum seat will conform to the new round ball and tap-tap and make a surface that stops the oil bleed down problem. Now if his seat is that bad (rare) it will need to be cut.

ALSO that breather hose most people have pointing towards the ground MUST have a filter on it...so road debris isn't drawn back into the engine.

Originally Posted by NO BUTT NO PUTT

What do you need to convert it? Whats the cost to do this?

The only "cost" is the Barnette wet/dry clutches and...time to do it.
Now keep in mind (if) the bike is a "leaker" where the inner primary mounts to the the left case (large 0-ring) or around the trans main shaft to the backside primary seal it will continue to leak and, the oil in the primary must be kept after.
Also keep in mind there will only be some 16 oz's lubricating the inners and if it leaks out will cause damage!
Before I go into details on how to do it and the inner primary should come off (just easier)...make sure the owner wants it done, you have the time...then get back to me.