volvo 290 out drive, how strong ?
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volvo 290 out drive, how strong ?

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    Default volvo 290 out drive, how strong ?

    in my 22 sun runner i have a 290 volvo out drive, and its been recently mated to a built small block 383. im running just a tad over 440 hp, and im curious what the out drive is capable of handling ? i got the boat with the out drive town down ready for a rebuild, but i want to know if i should rebuild it or change out drives? im not too knowledgeable with out drives so any help in this area would be great. thanks in advance.

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffz0rz View Post
    in my 22 sun runner i have a 290 volvo out drive, and its been recently mated to a built small block 383. im running just a tad over 440 hp, and im curious what the out drive is capable of handling ? i got the boat with the out drive town down ready for a rebuild, but i want to know if i should rebuild it or change out drives? im not too knowledgeable with out drives so any help in this area would be great. thanks in advance.

    It is my very humble opinion that the 290 will not be able take full advantage of the added HP, that is unless you swap out the lover leg to a Duo Prop, this will make all the difference in the world as far as overall performance of the boat, and I doubt seriously that your small block could actually tear things up.

    Keep a sharp eye out for a Duo Prop drive and have fun..

    BTW, most of the 290's came with 275HP LT1's...
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Senior Member Sleek Freak's Avatar
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    I run twin 290's in my 36' Sleek with 383 small block chevys with no problems in 6 years. just use your head.

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    if i choose to rebuild the our drive, is there anything that i would want to "beef up" so to speak, to ensure longevity with my engine/ out drive combo? on a side note, how important is it for me to stick with the power steering that the 290 is equipped with ? is there a way around it ? im not sure of the condition of the power steering and if its in need of repair, if possible, id like to just go with out it.

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    Senior Member HALLETT BOY's Avatar
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    It's torque that destroys outdrives , a small block 383 is probably not producing a big block amount of torque . The horsepower # is impressive , but I'm sure the torque # is within limits of the out-drive .

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    well as long as i dont abuse the out drive i should be alright, correct ? im no drag racer and anything over 70 makes me nervous. mostly cruising and pulling tubers is what this boat will be used for. nothing aggressive. im a bit of a nervous nelly and just want things to go as smooth as possible.

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    any ideas on where i can find some information on rebuild kits for the out drive? this will be my first time re assembling an out drive. well i did rebuild an older force bottom end about 12 years ago, so needless to say its been a while

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    Lord of the Drinks Havasu Hangin's Avatar
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    The Bravo was actually patterned after the 290...so the Swedes got something right. The only real problem with the 290 is the lack of performance parts (like steering, drive showers, etc.), but they are as strong as a Bravo...IMO.

    In the 70's and 80's, they put them on everything from fishing boats (even behind diesels), to offshore racing boats.

    In my old boat, I had over 450HP and 460ft-lbs in front of mine, and it lasted fine. The key to making them last is shifting them as low (RPMs) as possible, and keep the prop shaft seals in good shape (a known issue- fishing line will take them out). I was told 500HP is doable, but just don't do anything stupid (like hammering it out of the hole).

    A duoprop is a great idea, but the only way to take advantage and make it go fast would be to raise the x-dimension (and make it a "Swedish Blackhawk"...lol). If you're just pulling tubers, a duoprop will take the torque-steer out of the equation...a big plus.

    I had WPM make me a custom top plate, and put an external steering setup on mine (the stock transom shield bushings never lasted long, and got sloppy).





    I also put a nosecone on mine, but I think that's a waste. Raising the X would have netted more gains. Tubing? Not so much.

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    Last edited by Havasu Hangin; 04-11-2010 at 06:28 PM.
    "Warming the globe...16 cylinders at a time."

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    you think torque steer might be an issue with my setup? would running the power steering resolve that if it were to come into play ? i guess all i can do rebuild it and see what happens. any idea what i might be looking at for speed wise with this out drive, not taking the prop into consideration. what is this out drive capable of with me turning say 7700 rpm ? i dont know anything when it comes to props to be honest. i believe im going to want something for mid range since ill be doing more tube pulling and ski pulling than ass hauling.

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    Lord of the Drinks Havasu Hangin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffz0rz View Post
    you think torque steer might be an issue with my setup? would running the power steering resolve that if it were to come into play ? i guess all i can do rebuild it and see what happens. any idea what i might be looking at for speed wise with this out drive, not taking the prop into consideration. what is this out drive capable of with me turning say 7700 rpm ? i dont know anything when it comes to props to be honest. i believe im going to want something for mid range since ill be doing more tube pulling and ski pulling than ass hauling.
    I'll bet you're gonna get some torque-steer with that much power. There is a torque tab on the underside of the cavitation plate, but the problem I had was that different props, speeds, and trim settings caused different levels of torque-steer. The tab is fixed, so it's tough to completely eliminate it the the torque tab.

    Power steering solved it for me.

    I personally would not turn that drive that high. What RPM does your motor make max power? Anything over 5K, and I'd put synthetic oil and a drive shower on it, but that's just me.

    A couple pieces of advice:

    1. Keep the drive left-hand rotation. Since it's easy to switch the drive's rotation, many guys switch over to RH, since there seems to be more props available. However, LH rotation keeps the majority of the stress on the (stronger) upper gearset, while RH moves alot of stress to the lowers. I believe all the diesels were setup this way, along with a different topcap?

    2. Don't reuse the lock bolt on the prop cone everytime you remove a prop. There is a nylon insert on the end of the bolt that acts like Locktite. If you re-use it, the nylon wears out, and the bolt will eventually back out and end up on the bottom of the lake. Once that happens, a few times putting the drive in forward and reverse (like when pulling a tuber), and the cone (and brand new stainless prop) will be at the bottom of the lake shortly thereafter. Let's just say I learned the hardway...as there wasn't anyone on the internet telling me these things...lol.
    "Warming the globe...16 cylinders at a time."

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    Perhaps I'm gay...

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    i believe my motor make max power in the 4800 range. ill have to dig out the dyno sheet for that. and as far as the RH LH rotation, how do i find out what direction its set up for? besides fully assembling everything and turning her over. i appreciate all the helpful advice.

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    Lord of the Drinks Havasu Hangin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffz0rz View Post
    i believe my motor make max power in the 4800 range. ill have to dig out the dyno sheet for that. and as far as the RH LH rotation, how do i find out what direction its set up for? besides fully assembling everything and turning her over. i appreciate all the helpful advice.
    I would prop that boat so that the max RPMs are right at the top of the dyno sheet. As light as that boat is with that much power, you'll have lots of low-end and midrange (as long as the prop doesn't cavitate). I don't know if Hill will let you demo stainless propellers, but I bet they'll get you close on the first try.

    The direction is easy- just look at your prop. In forward, the prop will spin either RH or LH to make the boat go forward.

    There's a Volvo guy in Newport who used to rebuild drives, along with selling alot of 290 stuff on Ebay.

    Grant
    Sea And Ski Marine
    740-A Ohms Way
    Costa Mesa, CA 92627
    Tel: (949) 646-7813

    Sea and Ski on Ebay

    EBAY
    Last edited by Havasu Hangin; 04-11-2010 at 08:17 PM.
    "Warming the globe...16 cylinders at a time."

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    oh the reason i asked about the direction is the drive is torn down right now so i cant put anything in gear. i can how ever just look at the prop correct ? how its pitched will tell me what drive direction it is for. or am i wrong ?

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffz0rz View Post
    oh the reason i asked about the direction is the drive is torn down right now so i cant put anything in gear. i can how ever just look at the prop correct ? how its pitched will tell me what drive direction it is for. or am i wrong ?

    You are correct, but it is a three minute changeover regardless..
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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