Thread:

My tow rig gets a lot of looks....

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

I do like the sound the Qaud makes though. The looks people give me at stop lights are priceless. I've even had a few people ask "what is wrong with your truck".

That's the VVT. It's not the tuner, it's just the open exhaust with Variable Vane Turbo. Sounds like a tiny jet engine.

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

A friend of mine has an LMM with the Edge and it rumbles rather than hiss, kinda sounds like an LBZ. Mine will hiss with an occasional rumble (vanes). Yours does the same right?

Yes, hiss with occasional rumble. Yes, Edge and some other tuners knock back the vanes at idle for normal sound. At the loss of some bottom-end tq, of course. If you listen when it cycles, you can hear the turbo actually spool a little at idle. That means boost is available right off-idle.

Originally Posted by Beer:30

Yes, hiss with occasional rumble. Yes, Edge and some other tuners knock back the vanes at idle for normal sound. At the loss of some bottom-end tq, of course. If you listen when it cycles, you can hear the turbo actually spool a little at idle. That means boost is available right off-idle.

That's good to know! I've thought about changing programmers but I just don't really see a benefit. The Edge I'm not a fan of because of the digital screen (I already have gauges). EFI Live just seems like too much of a PITA to go through the install. I kinda thought about PPE but I just don't see the point of "upgrading". I would think the money could be better used modifying something else.

Did you notice any improvements with the intake? I hear it's not worth it. Did you go paper filter or rechargeable?

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

That's good to know! I've thought about changing programmers but I just don't really see a benefit. The Edge I'm not a fan of because of the digital screen (I already have gauges). EFI Live just seems like too much of a PITA to go through the install. I kinda thought about PPE but I just don't see the point of "upgrading". I would think the money could be better used modifying something else.

Did you notice any improvements with the intake? I hear it's not worth it. Did you go paper filter or rechargeable?

I agree on the tuners - although I know another LMM owner that just switched to PPE (non-DPF like me) and he noticed it's cleaner on their +100 tune than the +90 Quad. However, you are locked into either their NON DPF or WITH DPF tuners. That's why I chose the Quad (back in 2008), because I can load either tunes with the same box.

At our HP levels, we probably won't notice the intake. I notice a BIT more turbo zing, but probably more psychological than anything. I mainly wanted it because everything else I own has washable filters. Once a year I just wash them, put on a minimal amount of their oil, and keep driving. Not a SPEC of dirt in the intake tract(s).

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

Same reason I narrowed my choice to quad!

I probably wont to the intake. So far I've done the PCV re-route, egr block, and Transgo JR. Next I'm going to install a Mag Hytec deep trans pan and diff cover.

I have the TransGo Jr., but haven't stuck it in yet. Won't do a deep trans pan, as it doesn't run hot anyway and I don't want the reduced ground-clearance. I changed to RaptorBlood synthetic trans fluid and dropped 10-degrees while towing, so I never even get over 190 anyway. I don't pull heavy enough to warrant a HyTech rear cover. Plus, it has Torco synthetic in it anyway.

I still have to smog mine, so I steered away from the EGR block and PCV. At this point, all I have to do is swap my exh (45 minutes) go get it smogged, and swap it back.

Originally Posted by Beer:30

I have the TransGo Jr., but haven't stuck it in yet. Won't do a deep trans pan, as it doesn't run hot anyway and I don't want the reduced ground-clearance. I changed to RaptorBlood synthetic trans fluid and dropped 10-degrees while towing, so I never even get over 190 anyway. I don't pull heavy enough to warrant a HyTech rear cover. Plus, it has Torco synthetic in it anyway.

I still have to smog mine, so I steered away from the EGR block and PCV. At this point, all I have to do is swap my exh (45 minutes) go get it smogged, and swap it back.

My truck is on some pretty tall tires and I'm going 2" taller pretty soon here. I was coming home from the river last week when it was 118 out and coming up the grades out of needles my trans was at 205 without towing. If I had my boat behind me it would have easily been 220 (done it several times). Just coming up the streets home if I get hot on the throttle up hills I'll heat the trans up to 185-190 on a warm day. I'm in need of it. I usually shift down to 5th or 4th on grades to keep the EGTs down.

I changed my fluid not too long ago, however next time I do I'm going to switch to synthetic. I kinda feel like a cheap bastard for not already doing it on a truck I plan on keeping awhile. I'm really looking forward to see how much my trans temps decrease after a deep pan and synthetic fluid. I'm hoping for 20-30 degrees. Well see.... I'll likely add a trans temp gauge to the a-pillar to get a more accurate reading too.

I get you on the clearance issue. You can get a GM pan they make for the Kodiak. It holds roughly 1-2 more quarts and is about $100. There another company and I can't remember if it's B&M or someone else that also makes a more shallow pan.But if your only running under 190 why bother!

On the smog deal: My mom works for a dealer so they just smog it there for me.

How's pricing on that RaptorBlood compared to Amsoil or Royal Purple (the two I planned going with).

Beer 30 and I agree once each year. Today's that day. I've had one Duramax or another for over a decade and expect to always have one.

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

My truck is on some pretty tall tires and I'm going 2" taller pretty soon here. I was coming home from the river last week when it was 118 out and coming up the grades out of needles my trans was at 205 without towing. If I had my boat behind me it would have easily been 220 (done it several times). Just coming up the streets home if I get hot on the throttle up hills I'll heat the trans up to 185-190 on a warm day. I'm in need of it. I usually shift down to 5th or 4th on grades to keep the EGTs down.

I changed my fluid not too long ago, however next time I do I'm going to switch to synthetic. I kinda feel like a cheap bastard for not already doing it on a truck I plan on keeping awhile. I'm really looking forward to see how much my trans temps decrease after a deep pan and synthetic fluid. I'm hoping for 20-30 degrees. Well see.... I'll likely add a trans temp gauge to the a-pillar to get a more accurate reading too.

I get you on the clearance issue. You can get a GM pan they make for the Kodiak. It holds roughly 1-2 more quarts and is about $100. There another company and I can't remember if it's B&M or someone else that also makes a more shallow pan.But if your only running under 190 why bother!

On the smog deal: My mom works for a dealer so they just smog it there for me.

How's pricing on that RaptorBlood compared to Amsoil or Royal Purple (the two I planned going with).

That's one of the other reasons I prefer lowered instead of raised.....TIRES. One of our family businesses is a tire shop, so I can get whatever I need. But for the truck's sake, just going to 245/70s, I have stayed at around 31.25" overall. It doesn't even want to downshift going up 6% grade with 9000 lbs of boat/trailer, plus four adults / ice chests / etc. I tap it down to 5th to reduce the smoke, but other than that - it's happy.

The more tire you ask it to pull, the more work it's having to do BEFORE you start to actually work it. Bigger tires are heavier, have more rolling resistance, and are paddling against the open-air. Nothing is free, though. Bigger tires look better, but you gotta pay to play.

I just ordered 4 more gallons of RaptorBlood and it was $116. I don't know how that stacks up against others, it's just what I run in my 28+ other vehicles.

Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie

28+ cars? Wow. I need to get into whatever business your in! I remember a thread a while back showing that massive garage/shop you built.

I'll try the RaptorBlood. I just ordered the diff cover and trans pan combo from Alligator Performance. I'll let you know how the temps change.

I assume you run synthetic oil too? Which oil do you run? I'm also sitching over to synthetic oil at the same time. Which means I'm going to order the oil filter bypass kit and oil psi gauge. I figure if I'm going to buy a new pillar pod for the trans gauge, I may as well buy one with one more hole and add the oil pressure gauge too. I've read about a few guys having issues with their factory gauges saying low oil pressure.

Thanks for all the info! My next truck will be a defiantly be a DRW and most likely lowered rather than lifted, but that will be years from now.

Yes, I run syn in the motor as well. I started with Mobil-1 Delvac-1 5-40. It's a bit hard to get, so I just started using Rotella T6 Syn 5-40. It's available at AutoZone or O'Reily's or pretty much anywhere in town.

I get all of my trans stuff from www.transmissioncenter.net . They have all of the pans, coolers, etc. I am always upgrading the several TH700R4 overdrives I have, so I whenever I get a servo, shift kit, or springs, I order another gallon or 4 of the RaptorBlood. I would never expect much more than 5 or 10 degrees of temp drop from syn trans fluid - as that would mean the stock stuff was absolutely in-adequate. I have witnessed a solid 10 drop, so I am perfectly happy with that. I used to get to 205 at most leaving Havasu at 116 ambient, pulling their first hill on the I-40 (7%) with AC and all the aforementioned stuff.

Don't trust the stock oil gauge? Gonna replace the speedometer, tach, volts and water too? Personally, I don't run the truck hard enough to worry about the stock gauges. They are more than sufficient for me and the ECM will shut things down if there's an un-read problem anyway.

You do realize that's a ONE HUNDRED TWENTY POUND gauge we're reading, right? I thought it looked low also, but then started really looking at the gauge. I realized the pressure is not "low", the scale is BIG. Besides, even if you go by the "race motor" scale of 10psi per 1000rpm......we only need 30psi MAX.