Thread:

Removing A/C on 454 in Winnebago

I've got a 1983 Class A RV with a BBC 454. It's the original engine with at least 75k miles on it and the A/C unit no longer pumps cold air. I'd like to remove the A/C unit all together because I'm not using it and it's just one more component the engine has to turn.

So what's the proper way to remove the A/C system? I'm not so much interested in knowing how to unbolt the unit from it's mount on the engine, but rather which hoses to disconnect/cap and is there anything special I should do or know to accomplish this task?

I've also read somewhere that removing the mechanical fan off the front of the engine and replacing with an electric fan will also lessen the load on the engine. Do you think this is a good idea?

I appreciate any feedback you engine guru's can provide.

Thank you!

Well....I'm not really looking for weight reduction, but considering my mph....I'll take the 30lbs gain. The real reason I want to get the A/C unit off the engine is for better engine access. My RV's temp gauge spikes up to 3/4 guage on any hill I hit whether I'm towing or not. On flat runs the needle is in the middle of the gauge, and because of her age, I'd like to do anything I can to keep the motor running cool/longer. I've had the RV for 3 years and she runs good and strong....even passed CA smog test after a tune up....and she handles well. I live 7 miles from the Beach and that's where we go most often; but we also hit the dessert with toys in tow each fall/spring and these trips is when the work out really happens. So besides the A/C removal, my list of tasks includes:

thermostat
radiator serviced
water pump
air damn from front bumper to radiator
carburator air intake extension to fresh air

I figure with the A/C out of the way I'll have better access to the front of the motor to accomplish some of these tasks and a little more power being saved not turning a usless pump.

So what are the environmental concerns you speak of? I was told on another board I could just go buy some plastic plugs to cap the lines.

Instead of electric fans , you might want to consider adding a super -duty thermal fan clutch ...they move a lot more air , but do make a little more noise

Some more things to check.
Timing(maybe to retarded for smog or cheap gas), carb settings (check if air door is opening on Q jet?), fan clutch, bad gas, tranny( is not overheating pulling the hill and causing the radiator to absorb it), bad thermostat( not opening all the way/old), no coolant( if you have just water it can climb) water pump, radiator (is not flowing like it used to from sitting),partial plugged muffler.
Or slow down up hills, it is a 83 after all and what do you consider hot up a hill Hope some things here helps.

Years ago I had a moho with heating issues.
My solution was to tap into the coach water line (left the pump while traveling), ran the added line next to driver seat with an inline valve, routed new line to top of radiator, and across the radiator, punched a bunch of holes into the bottom of the line.
When temp went up, open the valve, water drips across radiator, fan and air speed pushed/pulled water thru radiator, instant 30* drop in engine temp.
Kinda McGiver-ish but hey, it worked!
Carl

If it's not charged, then spinning the belt takes no hp at all. If it's low on charge then the clutch is not engaged anyhow (low pressure cutout switch).

Biggest thing to do is upgrade cooling system, get an aluminum aftermarket radiator, a OE delco STOCK thermostat (needs this to keep the ancient feedback carb working properly) and a heavy duty aftermarket electric fan set up.

If you remove/cut up all the pieces you'll regret it, there are aftermarket gasses that are 1/10th the cost of R12, have it charged every summer.

I think you will find with the upgrades I have listed you'll be able to run the air again (charged with freeze 12) cheaply, and gain some HP/cooling performance.

Then again I am not there, have no idea what the mechanical state of the engine is....

EM

Carl has a great add-on idea as well, I used to use a similar system to cool my Nova when I lived in Vegas, hard to cool anything when it's 120 out

It's nice to have something like that for older vehicles, especially if you are towing with them.

As well what the earlier guys posted, you could have tranny issues causing all your problems, best take it to someone who knows their shit.

Trust me, it's cheaper. But only if you find a good mechanic and don;t get soaked.

I can tell you sob stories all day long of new customers that just get HOSED. Ask around, find someone reputable, and yes, there is a REASON they cost 3x what pep boys charges...

You can gain 10-30 HP depending on the motor removing the belt driven fan. Biggest boost he's going to get in my opinion is going to an aluminum radiator...they dissapate so much more heat than a copper one.

You can run a 2 core in place of a 4 core and have it cool 3x as well. A high volume pump and stat is a great idea too.

Contrary to popular opinion, that little condensor does not affect airflow at all really, it's finned too that is unless it's plugged up with bugs/debris

The older I get the more I love A/C, leave it in and charge it!

EM

I pulled the a/c and somehow poked a hole in the radiator when I was removing the a/c condensor coil . The radiator looks to be in good shape and I can't image putting a bigger one in as I barely got this one out. The a/c condensor coil had an electric fan attached which I believe was helping ristrict natural air flow. I also do have a trans cooler that's run through the radiator, and so now the plan is to:

have radiator serviced - any shop suggestions in Oside/San Diego area?

change fan clutch

change thermostat

change water pump

I like the idea of putting a bottom loop in the radiator hose.

Thanks for the feedback.