couple quick questions from a v drive newbee, could use some help please

**OUTLAW HALLETT** · 07-18-2012, 10:41 AM

first, i just bought myself a sanger runner bottom, and i have a couple questions about how things should be....

prop shaft seal... seems to be bolted from the top side down. is this normal ? if so how do you tighten up the bolts? when i try they just spin, and i see no nuts on the bottom of the hull??? shouldnt they be the other way with nuts on the top side?

v drive unit... is not water cooled, and gets pretty hot, i would like to run a water line to it, on the driver side of the box it has a standard plug into the water jacket , but on the other side it has what appears to be brass pressed in plug it the hole ,,, again is this normal? can i just pop it out and put a hose fitting in it for an output????

thanks for the help in advance..

**Rattle Can Lou** · 07-18-2012, 10:53 AM

The shaft log is threaded into glass...so they strip easy...if it was mine...I would drill down through from the top and counter sink the bottom and bolt through...use either 3m 5200 fast cure or sea goin putty...end of problems..

water cooling the v-drive is a choice...make sure fluid is good...it takes 16 oz of 90 wt. if it's a split case box.....yes there are inlet and outlet opposite each other and it doesn't care which is in or out...I don't know about a pressed in plug...they should both be 1/4 in pipe thread...you can drill and tap your shaft log for exit of water from v-drive...

and your a lucky SOB to be able to boat at Shasta...haha

**the bandit** · 07-18-2012, 11:06 AM

Cicgrats on your new boat & welcome to the zoo! Be glad ta help ya if i can. Pm sent with my #,s andy

**ptc** · 07-18-2012, 11:06 AM

One note about v-drive water cooling is make sure your center plate is made for water cooling.

**steveo143** · 07-18-2012, 11:13 AM

Make sure the water jacket hasn't been removed.

**OUTLAW HALLETT** · 07-18-2012, 01:01 PM

Originally Posted by Rattle Can Lou

The shaft log is threaded into glass...so they strip easy...if it was mine...I would drill down through from the top and counter sink the bottom and bolt through...use either 3m 5200 fast cure or sea goin putty...end of problems..

water cooling the v-drive is a choice...make sure fluid is good...it takes 16 oz of 90 wt. if it's a split case box.....yes there are inlet and outlet opposite each other and it doesn't care which is in or out...I don't know about a pressed in plug...they should both be 1/4 in pipe thread...you can drill and tap your shaft log for exit of water from v-drive...

and your a lucky SOB to be able to boat at Shasta...haha

that is exactly what i was thinking i should do,, but didn't want to go punching holes in the bottom of the boat if there was another answer,,,,thank you guys , is there any way to tell if the plate is made for water without splitting the gear box? and or checking to make sure the jacket hasn't been removed? i asume i can get that plug out and tap it,,, if i knew that it was going to be ok?!

and i grew up on this lake and love it to death!!!thank you guys for your help!!!

**Desperado** · 07-18-2012, 05:59 PM

this is just an idea about checking for a water jacket or not. Pull the threaded plug where you would tap in for water and put some air to it. Pull the oil fill plug and if air comes out then your water jacket is not intact. If no air comes out the oil fill pull the other water plug, tap it and add some npt to AN adapters to plumb for water. I also have a 77 sanger runner bottom and use a pickup near the v-drive and dump it into the shaft log. If this is not a good method I am sure Steveo or others will have their say

**boat 569** · 07-18-2012, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by OUTLAW HALLETT

that is exactly what i was thinking i should do,, but didn't want to go punching holes in the bottom of the boat if there was another answer,,,,thank you guys , is there any way to tell if the plate is made for water without splitting the gear box? and or checking to make sure the jacket hasn't been removed? i asume i can get that plug out and tap it,,, if i knew that it was going to be ok?!

and i grew up on this lake and love it to death!!!thank you guys for your help!!!

I think an easy way to tell if your water jacket is still intact would be to remove one of the water jacket plugs and the plug in the front of the case where you add oil. Put a little air pressure into the water jacket hole and see if you get any airflow out of the oil fill. You could pressurize through the oil fill but might force oil past the seals.

**Desperado** · 07-18-2012, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by boat 569

I think an easy way to tell if your water jacket is still intact would be to remove one of the water jacket plugs and the plug in the front of the case where you add oil. Put a little air pressure into the water jacket hole and see if you get any airflow out of the oil fill. You could pressurize through the oil fill but might force oil past the seals.

great minds think alike

**058** · 07-18-2012, 06:40 PM

How hot is hot? Is it just hot to the touch or is it smoldering? Considering "hot to touch" can be as low as 130-140F which is not too hot for a gearbox. IMO I would just leave it as a dry box, switch to a synthetic gear oil such as Red Line 75-90 and run it.

**"Flat" foot'n** · 07-18-2012, 06:44 PM

Mmmmmmmm.... Shasta.......many great memories from that lake. Spent many summers camping at Hirtz Bay, getting lunch and ice cream at Holiday Harbor and slalom sking from sun up till sun down. Someday I'll get back there.

**OUTLAW HALLETT** · 07-19-2012, 08:09 AM

" hot" is just hot enough that you cant lay your hand on it for more than a second or two,, i wouldnt thing its dangerous hot, but the cooler i keep it the better right ? good idea withe the air pressure, thank you guys,..

whaile i have you all here , what other things should i keep an eye on and or check out with the v drive? and or the rest of the parts

**058** · 07-19-2012, 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by OUTLAW HALLETT

" hot" is just hot enough that you cant lay your hand on it for more than a second or two,, i wouldnt thing its dangerous hot, but the cooler i keep it the better right ? good idea withe the air pressure, thank you guys,..

whaile i have you all here , what other things should i keep an eye on and or check out with the v drive? and or the rest of the parts

Not really...gear oil is made to run in the 210-230 range to evaporate moisture/condensation from the box and to flow properly. With a good synthetic the box may run cooler because of the better properties of synthetic oil. I'd try the oil before I go drilling holes where they may not be needed.

**VDRIVERACING** · 07-19-2012, 09:14 AM

Well...there's always the pureists. I prefer comfort and would cool it in a heartbeat. It's a matter of a couple tiny hoses and fittings.

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couple quick questions from a v drive newbee, could use some help please

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