Spare Carb Anyone??
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Spare Carb Anyone??

  1. #1
    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    Default Spare Carb Anyone??

    Hey guys.. ran my boat for the first time this weekend. didnt end too well. came to the conclusion that the carb is dumping too much fuel in the motor. It has a 750 holley vacuum secondary on it right now. A lot of guys are saying that carb is fine, the guy i bought it from is saying there could be a problem with it. I trust his judgment, but live far away from him and am curious to see if anyone has a spare carb they would let me test. I got a bone stock sbc 350 motor. Have no problem loaning the money as a deposit, just want to rule out if thats the problem before i spend money buying a new one.
    I live in Corona, if any of you know Mouzer, im right down the street and am close with him.
    Let me know if you have anything for me...
    Thank you very much

    Troy Moore

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  3. #2
    AKA Blownjet 468 Blowncat 509's Avatar
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    check your needle and seat assemblies/float levels and power valve!
    these carbs are simple and modular, if your power valve is blown, it will go
    into full rich mode, and probably foul your plugs- first thing I would do is pull your bowl level plugs and see if you have fuel pouring out! if you do,
    it's your n&s- if it loads up at idle, prob your PV- CHECK IT OUT better to
    learn how it works than to keep swapping out carbs! good luck

  4. #3
    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blownjet 468 View Post
    check your needle and seat assemblies/float levels and power valve!
    these carbs are simple and modular, if your power valve is blown, it will go
    into full rich mode, and probably foul your plugs- first thing I would do is pull your bowl level plugs and see if you have fuel pouring out! if you do,
    it's your n&s- if it loads up at idle, prob your PV- CHECK IT OUT better to
    learn how it works than to keep swapping out carbs! good luck
    Yea defiantly want to learn how it all works. Float bowl levels are fine and runs fine at an idle. Only craps out at around 3k but never clears up. And yes, plugs are fouled.. The guy I bought the motor from was thinking power valve too but it doesn't really backfire through the intake, mainly through the exhaust

  5. #4
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItOn1 Productions View Post
    Yea defiantly want to learn how it all works. Float bowl levels are fine and runs fine at an idle. Only craps out at around 3k but never clears up. And yes, plugs are fouled.. The guy I bought the motor from was thinking power valve too but it doesn't really backfire through the intake, mainly through the exhaust
    Backfire through exhaust is from fouled plugs! Or a flat lobe on the cam! The Holley carbs are pretty easy to work on! You can do it lay out a towel and start taking it apart checking jets for trash, water in fuel gunk etc. Take your time and blow through all ports. Then put it back together! They have a good Holley book that has good info.too!
    Last edited by Widetrack; 11-16-2010 at 04:01 PM.


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  6. #5
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    82% of all fuel problems are electrical

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    You are way over carbed for a "bone stock SBC 350." You should be in the 600 cfm range!!

  8. #7
    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by submakr View Post
    You are way over carbed for a "bone stock SBC 350." You should be in the 600 cfm range!!
    motor ran with the exact same carb on it.. this one was just on the shelf.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Rvrrat350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by submakr View Post
    You are way over carbed for a "bone stock SBC 350." You should be in the 600 cfm range!!
    my boat has a 350 with a 600cmf holly and runs great
    my old jet boat had a mildly built 360 with a 650 and also ran great
    i think a 750 is a lil to big for the small block
    Good luck with the boat

  10. #9
    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rvrrat350 View Post
    my boat has a 350 with a 600cmf holly and runs great
    my old jet boat had a mildly built 360 with a 650 and also ran great
    i think a 750 is a lil to big for the small block
    Good luck with the boat
    Yea ok.. Rebuilt the carb last night. We'll seemhow it works this weekend. If all else fails, I'll throw a 600 or 650 on and see what happens

  11. #10
    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItOn1 Productions View Post
    Yea ok.. Rebuilt the carb last night. We'll seemhow it works this weekend. If all else fails, I'll throw a 600 or 650 on and see what happens
    You should be just fine. I ran a 327 with a 3310 780 vac sec for YEARS. No problem at all. If it were a double-pumper (mech sec), I could see it being a bit much. But, for a boat, you're fine. The vac secs only open AS THE ENGINE NEEDS IT. So, if it doesn't need FULL secs, it won't.

    Don't forget the electrical - as mentioned earlier. If you are losing voltage, the ignition system won't support much RPM. You could just be losing spark starting near 3000.
    Originally Posted by gn7 Its amazing any of us can even get back to shore each outing with those old tech POS we use.

    [IMG]MVC-039F.jpg[/IMG]
    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Don't forget the electrical - as mentioned earlier. If you are losing voltage, the ignition system won't support much RPM. You could just be losing spark starting near 3000.
    How would i check that? Is there a way? The distributor was given to me so it could be a possibility. I'm not running an altinator, but the battery has 12.70 volts and keeps it when running.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItOn1 Productions View Post
    How would i check that? Is there a way? The distributor was given to me so it could be a possibility. I'm not running an altinator, but the battery has 12.70 volts and keeps it when running.
    Mainly, you SHOULD be running 14.1-14.7 volts whilest underway. So, I would suggest running an alternator.

    If you have an electric fuel pump, this is also drawing current and could hinder your ignition.

    What type of distributor? If large-cap HEI, the module OR coil OR both could be breaking down. Since you are fouling plugs, I would say coil.

    If points-type: Same thing, would likely be coil. However, I would get a Pertronix IgnitorII or III module if that were the case along with matching coil. It bolts in place of the points, you DITCH the voltage reducing resistor (12v to 9v) AND it has a built in rev-limiter!
    Originally Posted by gn7 Its amazing any of us can even get back to shore each outing with those old tech POS we use.

    [IMG]MVC-039F.jpg[/IMG]
    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

  14. #13
    in the works MAD GREEK's Avatar
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    1st off, my bad.. I meant it holds the 12.7 after running, not during.
    2nd, it's the HEI style

    It's kinda all makin some sense.. Carb seemed fine when I rebuilt it last night. I guess I'll look into the ignition. Any way of testing it, or just put a new one on?
    Last edited by MAD GREEK; 11-17-2010 at 12:28 PM.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItOn1 Productions View Post
    1st off, my bad.. I meant it holds the 12.7 after running, not during.
    2nd, it's the HEI style

    It's kinda all makin some sense.. Carb seemed fine when I rebuilt it last night. I guess I'll look into the ignition. Any way of testing it, or just put a new one on?
    HEI tune-up kits are cheap and available at your local parts store. It'll have a cap, rotor, module. Coil would be extra. MSD and ACCEL have "performance" tune up kits. Pertronix also and Davis Unified Ignition (DUI).
    Originally Posted by gn7 Its amazing any of us can even get back to shore each outing with those old tech POS we use.

    [IMG]MVC-039F.jpg[/IMG]
    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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