Wiring Issues With Amp? HELP PLZ
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Wiring Issues With Amp? HELP PLZ

  1. #1
    Member BuddaMan's Avatar
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    Default Wiring Issues With Amp? HELP PLZ

    Hey guys need some help here, Ill try and keep it as short as possible, bought a 1971 Sleek Craft and the original owner built a system that has 12" sub and 2 6x9's, plus 1000watt amp powering the sub and 6x9's. I had to remove the sub enclosure for some fiberglass boat repairs and seems once I wired the speakers back together Ive had issues. I thought I didnt connect the sub and mids up correct since they were playen at one time then on a weekend test run recently all sound was gone, but the head unit had power. I had a good Sony head unit I replaced the old with in the boat, Re wired it all back up, yellow to live 12v, red, ground, and blue amp remote all hooked up, with the radio on I can find a station that comes in clear since I have no antenna, the sub works, 6x9 work on radio, sounds fine to me. But when I try to play a cd in the new installed unit, it kills the amp and green power light on the amp? why would switchen to CD or AUX kill the amp, the green power light on the amp slowly dims withen 7 seconds, then amp is off, head unit still on and playing CD, just no sounds coming out, then if I switch back to radio, the music and amp and green light will come back. Ive never heard music when a CD is playing however, but when I switch to play CD, I can see it playing on the unit, time is counting, I can hear the CD spinning? but withen seconds it amp is dead and no sounds? Here some quick pics of the system, they are mounted down where the gas pedal is, but facing out.Click image for larger version. 

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    grab the blue/white wire behind the deck, you have the power ant lead, so whats happening is when you play the cd its shutting off the blue wire (ant lead)... so disconnect the blue and hook up the blue white instead!!!!!

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    Member BuddaMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audio Options View Post
    grab the blue/white wire behind the deck, you have the power ant lead, so whats happening is when you play the cd its shutting off the blue wire (ant lead)... so disconnect the blue and hook up the blue white instead!!!!!
    Isnt the all blue, kinda dark blue the remote amp turn on wire?

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    nope it is the ant wire, blue white is the remote turn on

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    Also over the weekend I re wired the system, The original owner had the system wired to the ignition switch, and there was no ACC option in my ignition, So I added a Perco dual battery selector switch and wired the battery's and system the same for each battery, Just now I can select which battery I only want to run, before the switch the 2 batterys were tied/combined together. Now I wired it so I dont need the ignition switch on for my system. So I added what I thought was the BLUE remote amp wire to the POS IN Pwr to the amp, Yellow goes to constant power supply and Red went to Ign Pwr source. SO i need to combine the BLUE and BLUE/WHITE and run it to the amp?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Audio Options View Post
    nope it is the ant wire, blue white is the remote turn on

    My bad man, I re-read the instructions, I was reading ant rem not amp rem, thanks again. Do you know anything about wiring the Perco switches? In particular running the Positive from Amp to the Common on the Perco Swtich, Is that Right? Makes since why only the radio was working, Was I ruining my amp running it off the REM ANT wire the last day or so, total of 20 minutes
    Last edited by BuddaMan; 05-22-2011 at 10:52 PM.

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    I would dedicate the stereo (and amps) to one battery, that way, it will keep the other
    battery as a backup for starting, if you play the thing to long in the cove switch the
    perko switch to batt #1 when floating, and bumping, then you are only draining that
    battery- if it won't start, then you switch it to 2 to start, then to both when running


    Out With The Old, In With The New.......Goodbye Blinding Acceleration, Hello Sustained High Speed (in comfort)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blowncat 509 View Post
    I would dedicate the stereo (and amps) to one battery, that way, it will keep the other
    battery as a backup for starting, if you play the thing to long in the cove switch the
    perko switch to batt #1 when floating, and bumping, then you are only draining that
    battery- if it won't start, then you switch it to 2 to start, then to both when running
    I think thats how I have it now right? The system can run off eaither battery depending on the selector switch.

    Also I thought I was not supposed to drive to operate the boat on BOTH battery's unless one is dead and need both for starting? Can I drive with BOTH on to charge both battery's without it hurting anything?

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    AKA Blownjet 468 Blowncat 509's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddaMan View Post
    I think thats how I have it now right? The system can run off eaither battery depending on the selector switch.

    Also I thought I was not supposed to drive to operate the boat on BOTH battery's unless one is dead and need both for starting? Can I drive with BOTH on to charge both battery's without it hurting anything?
    yep, both batteries when running- I have my audio stuff going directly to one battery,
    the other to the starter, when floating I set the switch to #2, which is the one with all
    my audio power, then if it wont start, turn the switch to #1 starting battery, fire the engine, then set to both-


    Out With The Old, In With The New.......Goodbye Blinding Acceleration, Hello Sustained High Speed (in comfort)

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