Oil Pump pickup, silicone
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Oil Pump pickup, silicone

  1. #1
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Default Oil Pump pickup, silicone

    I use the c shaped tool thing and tack weld them. Have been doing it that way for years. Never any issues.....
    BUT that doesn't mean there isn't a better way.
    Does anyone use loctite sleeve retainer on them? Or other stuff?
    I worked for a guy that insisted we drill and tap a hole in the pump and have the thread of the bolt just go through the tube. It worked too... what a PITA
    Wags

    And what are you guys using for silicone? I have used ultra black for years. Always good luck. I was drinking with the big boat guys last night and they are using loctite 5900. They say zero leaks. Even with those 3 piece intakes for big chief heads. They swear by it.

    Oh, I went to pick up 1 stock gen 6 windage tray bolt. a 36 pack later we all stubled out of there and I got to look at bad ass stuff. Boat 1 a 42' MTI cat with twin turbos going in... runs 155 ish now... the new engines should push it to 175 ish.!!! The next boat was a miniscule 36 to 40' tunnel and the trailer it was sitting on was a 60K trailer with 6 20" wheels, low profile tires, disc brakes, etc. The boat was cool too...Trailer was a work of art. They probably hadd 5 million dollars worth of boats sitting there. Nice stuff, not cabin cruisers.
    Last edited by wagspe208; 05-19-2012 at 11:58 AM.

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    I've always Brazed my pickups on the pump.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PS&B1 View Post
    I've always Brazed my pickups on the pump.
    x2...only way to go...i also use Ultra black silicone on everything, especially my ATC/ATV toys...never a leak & withstands heat very well...just my .02 cents

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  6. #4
    gn7
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    I have used Loctite 5900. Its OK. Its the approved sealer for Porsche. I like Ultra Black better. I like all the Ultras better.

    The idea if using a bolt poking into the pickup tube right before the pump is nutty. Oil flow is no different that air flow. Why would you stick anything into the flow path, specially just before it enters the pump?

    Silicon bronze and a tig.



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    Senior Member Reservoir Dog's Avatar
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    Right Stuff, its in a cheese squeez can, that stuff is better than any silicone.




  8. #6
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reservoir Dog View Post
    Right Stuff, its in a cheese squeez can, that stuff is better than any silicone.
    I used the stuff one time. You're right, it didn't leak a drop. Of course I could have pulled all the aminfold bolts and thrown them away because you needed a 3 ft pry bar to remove the manifold. And that was with the stuff on the ends only. I can't imagine if I used it around the water ports.
    Thats stuff isn't even allowed in the garage now.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Reservoir Dog View Post
    Right Stuff, its in a cheese squeez can, that stuff is better than any silicone.



    Im a mechanic and thats all we use. And as far as needing a pry bar, never needed any more pressure to get intakes off with this stuff than any other. Personally though if it did grab that good whats the down side?

  10. #8
    gn7
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    Nothing if you never intend to get back in there. Perfect if your a mechanic, never what any chance in hell of a leak. I use the stuff too.
    I don't glue my valve covers down because we need to get back in there every so often. Like EVERY RACE!
    I know some one that used the stuff on a oil pan with studs. Now if he had used bolts, he MIGHT have been able to cut it with a utility knive. With studs it made it much tougher. Needless to say, he doesn't use it anymore either.
    The OEMs use the hell out of it. I can fully understand why.
    MAYBE, just maybe, if you let it skin enough, it might release. I let Ultra skin for 10-15 minutes and it doesn't even stick to the manifold when I lift it off. A little very thin smear of some new Ultra and its ready to reinstall.
    Like I said, if you mean to leave it one their till your grand kids graduate, cool. I think the OP is into his stuff more frequent than that. Just a guess. Personally, I don't need something that bonds so well I could remove my engine by the manifold, AFTER THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN REMOVED. So there is, in some applications, a down side.



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    Last edited by gn7; 05-20-2012 at 10:31 PM.

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    Gn7, what are you talking about when you say you let it "skin"?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fastlife View Post
    Gn7, what are you talking about when you say you let it "skin"?
    you let it cure/sit for a little while before you stick something on it and tighten it down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reservoir Dog View Post
    Right Stuff, its in a cheese squeez can, that stuff is better than any silicone.



    I hate that stuff. Makes it impossible to get an engine apart.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by PS&B1 View Post
    I've always Brazed my pickups on the pump.
    X3, and X3 on the Permatex Ultra seals.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    "Silicon bronze and a tig"
    I am assuming that is a standard rod? Any welding place has?
    This will prevent the cracking of the weld?

    Wags

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastlife View Post
    Gn7, what are you talking about when you say you let it "skin"?
    If you let any room temperature rubber product cure long enough before assembly it cuts down considerably on the adhesion to the part being bolt on.Manifold, timing cover, what ever. It doesn't really effect the sealing all that much and makes disassembly much easier. Look at Felpro intake and head gaskets. The have a silicone bead on them but it isn't "wet".
    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    "Silicon bronze and a tig"
    I am assuming that is a standard rod? Any welding place has?
    This will prevent the cracking of the weld?

    Wags
    Its as standard in a welding shop as any other brazing or welding rod. It can only be used with a tig.



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