Bbc blower manifold bolt torque
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Bbc blower manifold bolt torque

  1. #1
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    Default Bbc blower manifold bolt torque

    I am looking for thoughts on BBC intake manifold bolt tightening.

    I have a 540 BBC with Dart Pro 1 heads and run a blower using a INDY Cylinder blower manifold. My question is how much torque is needed for the bolts that hold the manifold to the heads. The Dart instructions recommend 35 Ft. lbs. of torque for the intake manifold. My issue is that I use stainless steel socket head cap screw bolts to prevent rusty bolts, however the maximum recommended torque for stainless socket head 3/8-16 bolts is 20 Ft. lb. What are the thoughts of the experts? Is 20 Ft. lbs. enough?

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    Senior Member jimclauss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsplace View Post
    I am looking for thoughts on BBC intake manifold bolt tightening.

    I have a 540 BBC with Dart Pro 1 heads and run a blower using a INDY Cylinder blower manifold. My question is how much torque is needed for the bolts that hold the manifold to the heads. The Dart instructions recommend 35 Ft. lbs. of torque for the intake manifold. My issue is that I use stainless steel socket head cap screw bolts to prevent rusty bolts, however the maximum recommended torque for stainless socket head 3/8-16 bolts is 20 Ft. lb. What are the thoughts of the experts? Is 20 Ft. lbs. enough?
    yes

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    Senior Member wizbang's Avatar
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    IMO, waste your money on the ARP and torque to 35 ft lbs.

    ( not to be an asshole, but, you bought an intake that cost twice as much as a "reg" intake
    then you use Ernst Hardware to hold it on ? )

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    I am mostly with Wizbang, HOWEVER... ARP has a selection of SS bolts that are stronger. They are pricey, but they are also shiney and have higher tensile strength. Look in their catalog in misc fasteners section.
    Wags

    OR, I will send you my manifold and you can use your arp bolts. I will then put your manifold to good use with ugly bolts. ROFL

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclauss View Post
    yes
    I did buy the more expensive manifold for several reasons. The INDY manifold holds the blower higher than most other manifolds and allows me to remove the distributor while using a 14-71 blower and it would appear to run cooler than many other manifolds, plus it looks good polished. I am into that kind of shinny thing. They also seem to work pretty good.

    I may end up using the ARP bolts as they are stronger, but can you torque the ARP 3/8-16 to 35 lb.? I also use the conventional 1/4-20 stainless set screws as studs for my valve covers and never had a problem.

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    gn7
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    ARP SS bolts will handle that torque EASY.
    But then, so will any 300 series SS bolt that meets Mil Spec(MS) or National Aerospace Spec(NAS). Which means your getting your hardware from a place like McMaster Carr of a respected fastener supplier like Specialty Fastner. Not the import junk from your corner home improvement store.



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    Last edited by gn7; 06-17-2012 at 09:22 AM.

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    Blown, OHBA Member Wild Hair's Avatar
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    Well hell, I just spent $53 to bolt my blower manifold down, 12 point ARP stainless. Seems I remember someone saying, " sometimes overkill is just barely enough. "

    I'd like to know how in the hell your suppose to torque this thing down, I'll be lucky to get a modified 3/8 wrench on bolts under the blower
    Last edited by Wild Hair; 06-17-2012 at 10:30 AM.
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    Anybody tried any chrome grade 8 hardware? I bolted the strut in my deal with 8 - 3/8 16 x2 1/2 chrome countersunk allen heads. I tightened them down "plenty tight' last year, boat was in the water maybe 10 times...pulled 3 out this year for a look and they still look great....not all cheap, but at least the threads don't wad up if i use air ratchet on them. I think arp has stainless header bolts...they work well in tight places..even with open end line wrench...but they 'not at all cheap'.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Hair View Post
    Well hell, I just spent $53 to bolt my blower manifold down, 12 point ARP stainless. Seems I remember someone saying, " sometimes overkill is just barely enough. "

    I'd like to know how in the hell your supposed to torque this thing down, I'll be lucky to get a modified 3/8 wrench on bolts under the blower
    I know what you are talking about. With the Indy manifold there is access to the bolts from the top if the blower is not in place with a socket extension. I also use the socket head cap screws, that helps. I hope the 12 pt. bolts will allow enough room for a socket to be used, there isn't very much clearance between the bolt head and runners.
    I am starting to give in and will spend the extra money for the ARP or 300 grade bolts to go with the pricey manifold.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    You need a 3/8" 12pt swivel socket. NOT a swivel with a 3/8" socket stuck on it.
    Extension.
    Torque wrench.
    Bingo.
    Wags

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    Grade 8 socket cap screws are like 125,000 psi.

    I tested some of the stainless intake 12 points from ARP, they are 170,200 psi.

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    Blown, OHBA Member Wild Hair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    You need a 3/8" 12pt swivel socket. NOT a swivel with a 3/8" socket stuck on it.
    Extension.
    Torque wrench.
    Bingo.
    Wags
    I think I might have to invest in a set of those, always use a good excuse to buy more tools.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Hair View Post
    I think I might have to invest in a set of those, always use a good excuse to buy more tools.
    I have one have Jeff stop by and get it after work. I've never used a torque wrench on it. I just tighten them down evenly.

  16. #14
    gn7
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    These are MS 316 SS socket heads that have been in the boat since I built it. I bet they have been cycled to 35 lbs with anti seize at least 30 times and never came close to failing to yield. If you look low in the pic you will see the same size 3/8 bolts on the bell housing motor plate. They are torqued to 40, and have been in the boat just as long, and are removed and retorqued every time the engine comes out of the boat. Never failed one.
    Click image for larger version. 

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