Blown 588 build thread
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Blown 588 build thread

  1. #1
    steelcomp was here
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    Default Blown 588 build thread

    It's been a long build and finally getting near finished. I figured it would be better to start a new thread for the write-up on EdonShanno's blown 588. It's not quite done yet as we're still waiting on a few more parts, but the hard part is done.

    Here are the build details:

    588ci BB Chevy, 1471, pump gas, 8.45:1cr
    4.56 bore x 4.50 stroke
    Dart Big M block 10.2" tall deck w/ billet caps
    Bryant billet crank with a bunch of Mallory
    JE reverse dome pistons
    JE 52S .200" straight wall wrist pins
    Total Seal AP series rings; steel top, Napier 2nd, high tension oil.
    Oliver billet 6.535" rods
    ARP hardware throughout

    Block prep; as usual, lots to be done here:

















    After the block is prepped, it's ready for machining. All our block machine work is done on a RMC V30 4 axis CNC. This block was bored, decked, and had the lifters bored for .903" lifters, while at the same time correcting any location errors (indexing to cam). We also check the cam tunnel for location and straightness. The mains are also checked and honed as necessary.

    Last edited by scott foxwell; 07-12-2012 at 11:55 AM.
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  3. #2
    steelcomp was here
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    While some of that is going on, the rotating assembly gets balanced. This is two days into this balance job, having to add ten slugs of mallory in four different countrer weights. Sometimes that's what it takes to do it right. The machine shop lets me do the balancing on my builds. Note to self: there is no money in balance jobs.



    After that's all done it's back to my shop and time to start with the mock-up and test fitting. Here's what you can run in to, even with the best parts;





    After I get it so the crank will spin, it's time to hang a rod and piston and see how that's working out;





    Everything looks good there with plenty of clearance, so it's time to finish the rest of the block mods. The main caps all get detailed including the rear cap's oil passage (like all oil passages in the engine)...



    ...and with this build we chose to install piston oilers to help keep the pistons cool during those long WOT runs across the lake. Here, I'm detailing the sharp edg that the oil transfer slot leaves in the main bearing oiling passage. I don't like sharp edges in places like this.



    It's kind of a tedeous installation, but if you take your time it can come out nice and be well worth the effort.





    You can see the brass oil squirters sticking out of the top of the main bulk heads:

    Last edited by scott foxwell; 07-12-2012 at 12:56 AM.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
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    Senior Member SHAWN DAVIS's Avatar
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    Nice work

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    Senior Member MBMoseBilt's Avatar
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    Sweet. I really like those Oliver rods. They seem to be one of the nicest set of there. Keep the pics coming.


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  7. #5
    gn7
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    Was it really necessary to let this cat out of the bag? Geez Scott! Is nothing sacred?

    Hey, can you come over a detail a couple blocks for me. You do a much nicer job than I do. I HATE that stuff.



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    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    AS ALWAYS Scott, GREAT JOB Your gonna be a HAPPY Customer when dealing with Foxwell Motorsports


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    Keep the pics coming buddy
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    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Nice work. Isn't this a pump gas stern drive deal?
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  10. #8
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    Nice work. Isn't this a pump gas stern drive deal?
    Thanks Ron. Yes, going in a 26' Daytona.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  11. #9
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post

    Was it really necessary to let this cat out of the bag? Geez Scott! Is nothing sacred?

    Hey, can you come over a detail a couple blocks for me. You do a much nicer job than I do. I HATE that stuff.
    LOL...didn't know that cat was still in the bag.
    Detailing blocks is definitely a necessary evil, so NO.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  12. #10
    steelcomp was here
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    Thanks TN.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  13. #11
    I don't feel tardy Hallett Dave's Avatar
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    Looking good Scott.
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  14. #12
    steelcomp was here
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    More mock up; The rear piston squirter is real close to the oil pump drive shaft, so that needs to be checked;

    Rear cap, oil pump, drive shaft and dist. all installed:



    You can see how close it is:



    Good time to check out the oil pump and give it a once over. Clearances checked and a good blending and deburring of the housing are in order:





    Minor mods to the pick-up were necesary; the bracket needed some obvious clearance:



    Pan fit, and pan to pick-up clearance is checked, and in this case both needed some serious adjustment. This oil pan is as big as a suitcase!



    Pan needed to come forward some and was hitting the rear cap:



    You can use a little clay on the rear cap to check clearance there:



    Pan to pick up clearance was over 1" to start, so I had to cut the basket loose and move it up (down) the pick up tube. Fortunately there was enough tube inside the basket to adjust. Final check with clay showed about 1/2" clearance before tightening the pan. Should net a little less than 7/16".

    Last edited by scott foxwell; 07-12-2012 at 11:51 AM.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Senior Member Franger's Avatar
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    WOW....you're almost as meticulous as a high end finish carpenter

    Beautiful work Scott

  16. #14
    steelcomp was here
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    Now we can move forward to the cam, mocking up the belt drive, checking thrust and degreeing. Thrust was set at about .007".





    I had to make a cam installation tool for the belt drive installation, which has a left hand thread. Degreeing this style Jessel requires removing the cam "gear" and rotating it, so this tool also made quick removal, adjustment, and re-installation that much easier.





    Once that's all done, it's time for bearing clearances and getting ready to install the rotating assy.

    I decided to give coated bearings a try and went with a new company in the coating industry, Power Coaters, a division of our very own Straub Technologies.





    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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