Zinc addatives
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Zinc addatives

  1. #1
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Default Zinc addatives

    Does

    Didn't read it. Just throught someone with more time could. It is a testimony of NOT ADDING STUFF to oil.
    Wags

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    WTF... real info on addatives and it doesn't get a second look. Link is to speedfreak site.
    Wags

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    WTF... real info on addatives and it doesn't get a second look. Link is to speedfreak site.
    Wags
    Wags, if you are on Amsoils E mail list you get articles like that about once a month. That one was from Amsoil. The bottom line on that and many of the articles they write is, don't screw with the oil. Buy the right oil to begin with, which I tend to agree with. I would never suggest to someone that they buy some cheap oil and add anything. If your going to do that, be sure what it is your adding and how much.

    There are too many oils out there to be playing home chemist. Its stupid.
    If you are going to run a conventional oil, you have Brad Penn, Torco, and Gibbs all making excellent conventional oils. If you have to buy your conventional oil from a local retailer, then VR1 is you best bet, with the straight weight be the perfered oil for flat tappets, then 20/50. Mosty cam grinders will tell you to stay away from 10/30 for a flat tappet. Even VR1.

    If you have to run some Havoline 10/30 in your falt tappet motor, then you better be looking at an additive. But its stupid.

    One reason Amsoil is so against it is, they make very few oils now that require an additive because only their XL line is API certified. So they blend the oil the way they see fit.

    Adding somethng to your oil is ADMITTING you bought shit oil.



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    Very interesting. Thanks. Also found a new forum to check out.

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    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
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    first of all they would not have the stuff in a bottle (from the cam co.)to add to the oil when breaking in a cam if it wasn't detramental. many have lost a new cam. i personally have wiped out a journal bearing in my turbos .often! (turbos too small,spinning too fast)& i resorted to putting the zink additive in my motor. my turbo lasted for a few outings .lots of passes. finally wiped out my bearing in the turbo & threw a new bearing in it & went on my way. with the first wide open full pass i made, i wiped out the bearing!!!!!!!..when i did the oil change at the same time i forgot to put the additive in!..i stand by my first hand experience of additives in the motor. not sure exactly what this tester is or looks like not sure if it just stops a turning wheel under load. stopping a spinning wheel under load would be more of a slippery h.p. test i would think. if more power was produced to force the oiled spinning wheel ,this is when the zinc would funtion is what i would think. its protective but causes resistance,less slippery.i used comp cam engine additive & vr1 20/50.. just my observation.....i did watch a test with a 1 arm bandit & my final thought was he did oil to oil & additive by itself or 50/50 or some other higher than you would actually use mix ratio. he never used the exact mix ratio when comparing. i dont remember him being inconsistant with the pulling but he could have.....in my case i was overloading the turbo above & beyond probably any oil could handle -for what its worth
    Last edited by turbo wog; 07-16-2012 at 04:28 PM.

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    gn7
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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    They will put anything in a bottle to add to anything if they can sell it.
    The article seems to point out that more damage is done than good by adding stuff to the oil companies blend.
    Wags

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Okay may I get opinions on Gibbs oil? Thinking about using it on a new build. Mark

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Okay may I get opinions on Gibbs oil? Thinking about using it on a new build. Mark
    There is a wide variety of Gibbs oils. Both synthetic and conventional. Huge price swing as well.

    Right now Mark, if your thinking conventional, its tough to beat Lucas' new marine oil.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    There is a wide variety of Gibbs oils. Both synthetic and conventional. Huge price swing as well.

    Right now Mark, if your thinking conventional, its tough to beat Lucas' new marine oil.
    Thank you I will check into it. Mark

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    anyone run Kendall- Liquid Titanium
    with added Zinc

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    anyone run Kendall- Liquid Titanium
    with added Zinc
    You have to be carefull with some oils the way they are marketed. Kendall is one of them. There is Kendall GT1 blend and full synthetic, THEN there is Kendall GT1 High Performance blend and full synthetic, as well as Kendall Ultimate GT1 synthetic and Kendall GT1 CONVENTIONAL
    Only Kendall GT1 HIGH PERFORMANCE CONVENTIONAL has a zink and phos over 850. Which is stupid low.
    The 20/50 has the highest, but the straight weights are right up there at around 1200 which is on par with the 20/50 and straight weight VR1

    You just have to be carefull what it is your buying.

    Teague uses it in his unblown engine packages. The blown ones get Amsoil Dominator Racing. Which is some bad ass stuff.



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    Last edited by gn7; 07-16-2012 at 11:07 PM.

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    Good info, thanks for the link wag

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    GN7 Bob, if availability wasn't an issue or even delivery to your door, of the three oils Lucas, Amsoil or Torco, which would you use. And what weight. Considering becoming a dealer, with 5 boats every oil change becomes a pain as far as getting the stuff I prefer.
    steveo143 AKA DiMarco 21 II



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