1150 Dominator 3rd circuit tuning
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1150 Dominator 3rd circuit tuning

  1. #1
    Hit it where you fit it
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    Default 1150 Dominator 3rd circuit tuning

    I have read a few posts of a similar issue on a 1050 a few weeks back. I have a #9377-1 in a single card configuration on my 10.1 496 BBC. I feel I have a clean idle and by plug readings a fairly dialed in top end jetting with (91's to 93's squared with out power valves in either end (metering block castings are blocked off from Holley).

    I have been experiencing a overly rich condition at my 4000 rpm cruise speeds which I read is typical of this style Dominator. So rich to the point of leaving the transon black after a days worth of driving.

    The model I have has the non removable air bleeds and appears to be a 1996 model year if it matters. It also has progressive linkage.

    I was wondering if I can either buy new billet metering blocks and run a power valve to lean out during the mid range without having to go larger on the intermediate air bleeds, or in addition to the PV , drill the air bleeds out to about .073" as I have read in earlier posts.

    Any thoughts on this? Will the leaner jetting to say 84's with a PV be enough to get a clean cruise and an improvement in mileage with out messing with the air bleeds or will a combination of the two be the hot set up?

    Thanks in advance for any replies.....

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  3. #2
    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phat Bastard View Post
    I have read a few posts of a similar issue on a 1050 a few weeks back. I have a #9377-1 in a single card configuration on my 10.1 496 BBC. I feel I have a clean idle and by plug readings a fairly dialed in top end jetting with (91's to 93's squared with out power valves in either end (metering block castings are blocked off from Holley).

    I have been experiencing a overly rich condition at my 4000 rpm cruise speeds which I read is typical of this style Dominator. So rich to the point of leaving the transon black after a days worth of driving.

    The model I have has the non removable air bleeds and appears to be a 1996 model year if it matters. It also has progressive linkage.

    I was wondering if I can either buy new billet metering blocks and run a power valve to lean out during the mid range without having to go larger on the intermediate air bleeds, or in addition to the PV , drill the air bleeds out to about .073" as I have read in earlier posts.

    Any thoughts on this? Will the leaner jetting to say 84's with a PV be enough to get a clean cruise and an improvement in mileage with out messing with the air bleeds or will a combination of the two be the hot set up?

    Thanks in advance for any replies.....
    I would go with the power valve myself. Proform makes nice metering blocks. (ones that actualy work)
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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  6. #4
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    to get a clean cruise a/f ratio you're gonna need to take a vaccum reading under the carb at that cruise speed and install a p/v in accordance with those readings. i ended up removing my bleeds(i realize your's aren't removable) and just getting a good reading at cruise speeds, then i installed 2.5 p/valves, and it made a world of difference. try that before drillin the main body, main body's aren't cheap.

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    With my metering plates being "cast" without a PV port should I go with a billet set in the front and rear or just the front? Any advantage to PV's in both ends or is it to be avoided?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phat Bastard View Post
    With my metering plates being "cast" without a PV port should I go with a billet set in the front and rear or just the front? Any advantage to PV's in both ends or is it to be avoided?
    i tried it both ways and had better looking plugs and fuel useage runnin p/valves. i use mine(dominator 1050hp 8896) for cruising alot at say 3700-4000rpms, and cove race some. with the p/v blocked, it ran fat most of the time, and i tried several jetting combos before i decided to take the p/v plugs out and tune the p/valves. it works for me. i run race gas , so i sure could tell my drum quit getting drained as fast runnin p/valves

  9. #7
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    That sounds like the plan, I will look into some blingy billet units and check the cruise vacuum tomorrow at the lake to get the correct PV 's in this pig. Thanks for the info.

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