Rust Remover?
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Rust Remover?

  1. #1
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    Default Rust Remover?

    I've got a metal frame with a bunch of rust on it, wondering what type of product you guys would recommend using to try and get it off before i spray it with some paint. I know blasting would probably be best but i'm on the cheap with this project

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    Navel jelly. But it shoud be blasted.
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

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    Senior Member Franger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVILFORCE View Post
    Navel jelly. But it shoud be blasted.
    X2

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    Senior Member snoopjonnyjon's Avatar
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    How big of a part are we talking? A frame from what?

    A wire brush on an angle grinder works pretty well.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Muratic acid. Better get it all off, though.
    Wags

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    Senior Member Ronboats's Avatar
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    A wire wheel in your drill,then navel jelly for the areas you cant reach with the wheel.If you have any emery cloth laying around,that is effective,but labor intensive. Maybe try emery cloth along with the navel jelly if the rust is bad.

  9. #7
    gn7
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    After you have removed all the rust you can, use a rust converter on it. I like Eastwoods the best but you can get a rust converter at any Pep Boys or Home Depot. If your going to paint it, and your concerned about rust coming back I'd use POR 15.



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    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    It's a golf car frame, It's already got some areas where rust has eaten it's way through. I'm going to weld those up and then paint the thing. I wanted to try and remove as much rust as possible before paint. Rust will continue to eat the metal even if painted over right?

  11. #9
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    It's a golf car frame, It's already got some areas where rust has eaten it's way through. I'm going to weld those up and then paint the thing. I wanted to try and remove as much rust as possible before paint. Rust will continue to eat the metal even if painted over right?
    The converter helps to stop that. Thats why I said I would use a converter after you get as much rust as you can removed.



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    Golf cart frame ooooh great dyno subject here....

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    One thing I'll mention about the "rust converter"...unless you can fully in-capsule the metal/rusted area with the converter...the RUST will continue to spread under it.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

  14. #12
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdsheppie View Post
    Golf cart frame ooooh great dyno subject here....
    You need to get out more. There are more golf carts at the boat races than there are on the golf courses. At some races its more dangerous to be walking in the pits than it is in the boat. And some of them HAUL ASS and more bling that gangsta's Escalade rolling on dubs



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    Last edited by gn7; 09-26-2012 at 06:14 PM.

  15. #13
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    A knotted wire cup brush in a 4"-7" angle/body grinder works very well, next best thing to 40-60 grit flapper discs or grinding discs. Safety glasses are a must along with at least a good dust mask. Careful around edges, brackets etc. that knotted cup brush gets grabby and will jump off shit and tie your shirt in knotts and leave you a little road rash type reminder on your chest or stomach but thats never ever happened to me it's just a rumor I once heard. haha After that if you still want to remove the remaining rust use Jasco prep and prime or similar type acid based rust converting product. It converts the rust to iron oxide but leaves the surface bumpy so if you want a smooth finish you'll have to remove the surface material. (Frazee paints sells Jasco, Home wrecker depot sells another brand but works well too.) This stuff is acid based and is also good for concrete floor coating prep as well, so protect your concrete if you value its finish. Rubber gloves come in handy too (no pun intended) so get a couple pair of those too. If the rust is still fairly heavy after grinding/brushing, apply the product and let it sit for at least a couple hours (you will see it start to react immediately but will take some time to break down the rust) then go back later with a 3m Scotch-brite #7440 pads fairly saturated with the solution and start scrubbing (safety glasses are a must, this shit burns when you get it in your eyes, again, just a rumor though). Once clean it will leave a dull grey finish to the steel very similar to a sand blasted finish without the rough abbrated "mechanical tooth" left from the sand blasting process. If you leave the product on the steel it will remain kinda thick and very tacky etc. If you rinse it with water the steel frame will begin to flash rust immediately so either be prepaired to paint it that same day or wait to remove it when your ready to paint. You could clean the nite before, wipe/blow dry, store inside shop/garage etc. for an early a.m. paint app. the following day. It will have minor flash rust but that wont be a problem because with out oxygen and moisture the rust can't grow. Apply at least 1.5-2.5 wet mills. of a good industrial oil base enamel primer or epoxy primer if your really serious about protecting that frame and top coat with whatever you like and you should be good to go for a long azz time. Well, at least until you get all liquored up at the river some nite and see how "good" it is off road and scratch or wad it up. lol j/k I wouldn't know shit bout that either. haha Good luck, if it's anything like your boats it will be a real nice toy when done. Toss up a pic. when its done. Have fun.

  16. #14
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Rust NEVER sleeps.
    Wags

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