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Another sparkplug thread...

  1. #1
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Default Another sparkplug thread...

    I've read through all the other threads and am still in need of some direction.

    I understand NGK is easy to read and Autolite is easy to get.

    The trouble I'm running into is I can't find a chart for either that has part numbers for the spectrum of heat ranges.

    Can you guys point me in the right direction?

    Mid 70's 350 SBC, guessing it's a stock take-out. It has a 2x4 tunnel ram, points ignition, (soon to be dual plane & HEI) and logs with OT's... in an 18 jet boat. Engine always runs cool/warm to the touch.

    What plugs do you recommend? Or what else do you need to know?

    Thank you guys,
    Seth-
    Last edited by Budweiser; 10-11-2012 at 04:56 PM.

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    Senior Member jimclauss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    I've read through all the other threads and am still in need of some direction.

    I understand NGK is easy to read and Autolite is easy to get.

    The trouble I'm running into is I can't find a chart for either that has part numbers for the spectrum of heat ranges.

    Can you guys point me in the right direction?

    Mid 70's 350 SBC, guessing it's a stock take-out. It has a 2x4 tunnel ram, points ignition, (soon to be dual plane & HEI) and logs with OT's... in an 18 jet boat. Engine always runs cool/warm to the touch.

    What plugs do you recommend? Or what else do you need to know?

    Thank you guys,
    Seth-
    What cylinder heads?

  4. #3
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclauss View Post
    What cylinder heads?
    3998993
    ‘71-’76 US/ ‘85-’88 Mexico
    Last edited by Budweiser; 10-11-2012 at 06:03 PM.

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    Senior Member rocket98's Avatar
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    Here's how to read the NGK plug types
    Example NGK codes:[B] [P] [6] [E] [S][D] [8] [E] [S] [-] [L]
    Code Thread Diameter Socket Size
    A 18 mm 1" (25.4 mm)
    B 14 mm 13/16" (20.6 mm)
    C 10 mm 16 mm
    D 12 mm 18 mm
    E 8 mm 13 mm
    G PF 1/2" 15/16" (23.8 mm)
    AB 18 mm 13/16" (20.6 mm)
    BC 14 mm 16 mm
    DC 12 mm 16 mm
    mm mm
    mm mm
    mm mm
    mm mm
    R Racing plug, this table is not applicable!

    C Hex size 5/8"
    K Hex size 5/8" with projected tip (ISO)
    M Compact type
    P Projected insulator type
    R Resistor
    SD Surface discharge for rotary engines
    U semi-surface discharge
    Z inductive suppressor

    2 Hottest
    10 Coldest

    E 19 mm
    F tapered seat
    H 12.7 mm (1.5")
    L 11.2 mm (7/16")
    If this is blank, an 18 mm diameter plug has 12 mm reach; and a 14 mm plug has 9.5 mm (3/8") reach.

    A,B Special design (no details given)
    C special ground electrode
    G Racing use
    GV Racing V-type
    H Half thread
    K 2 ground electrodes
    L Half heat range
    LM Compact lawn mower type
    M 2 ground electrode for Mazda rotary engine
    N Special ground electrode
    P Platinum tip (premium)
    Q 4 ground electrodes
    R Delta ground electrode for BMW
    S Standard 2.6 mm electrode
    T 3 ground electrodes
    V Fine-wire electrode, gold-palladium
    VX Platinum tip (high performance)
    W Tungsten electrode
    X Booster gap
    Y V-groove center electrode

    8 .032"
    9 .036"
    10 .040"
    11 .044"
    13 .050"
    14 .055"
    15 .060"
    20 .080"
    L Half heat range
    N Special ground electrode (note: appears to be limited to BMWs)

    If you find anything you want to comment or add, please go to the Honda TL125 Feedback Page.
    Back to TL125 homepage
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  7. #5
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Great info!

    I did a couple searches in their application guide...

    Marine-Inboard>Berkeley>350 cid Chevrolet= YR5
    and
    Chevrolet>1974>BLAZER>5.7 V8 Y 4 bbl= YR5

    Both the same. Is this a "racing" plug? Doesn't seem to follow the above info except for "R" "Racing plug, this table is not applicable!"

    Is there a YR6, YR7, YR8, etc.? Can't find any.

    Still a little lost

    Is it Y=V-groove center electrode, R= resister, 5= heat range???
    Last edited by Budweiser; 10-11-2012 at 06:36 PM.

  8. #6
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Great info!

    I did a couple searches in their application guide...

    Marine-Inboard>Berkeley>350 cid Chevrolet= YR5
    and
    Chevrolet>1974>BLAZER>5.7 V8 Y 4 bbl= YR5

    Both the same. Is this a "racing" plug? Doesn't seem to follow the above info except for "R" "Racing plug, this table is not applicable!"

    Is there a YR6, YR7, YR8, etc.? Can't find any.

    Still a little lost

    Is it Y=V-groove center electrode, R= resister, 5= heat range???
    Non racing NGK plugs don't tend to go colder than heat range 5 and racing NGKs don't tend to go hotter than heat range 6.



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  9. #7
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Non racing NGK plugs don't tend to go colder than heat range 5 and racing NGKs don't tend to go hotter than heat range 6.
    Good to know.

    I read in another thread, someone always starts with "8" heat range. But, I think they may be running a blower.

    What would be a good heat range to start with on this engine?

    As much as I want to understand the ins and outs of spark plugs and their numbering system I'd really appreciate it if I could get an Autolite part# and an NGK part#...

    Thank you guys

  10. #8
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Specific plug recommendation?

    Anyone?

    Any suggestion/direction has to be better than what's in there.

    Does "2 heat ranges cooler than stock" hold true with this combo?

  11. #9
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Specific plug recommendation?

    Anyone?

    Any suggestion/direction has to be better than what's in there.

    Does "2 heat ranges cooler than stock" hold true with this combo?
    No!
    Maybe, and thats a big maybe, one heat range colder. If you wont to run a plug that is "available" run a 5, if you want to run a "racing plug" run a 6.

    I am a FIRM believer in the hottest plug that will live in the engine. Others believe in the coldest plug that doesn't foul. IF, and thats a big IF, you were racing this thing, maybe the "coldest plug" idea is viable. But not in a play boat.



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  12. #10
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    No!
    Maybe, and thats a big maybe, one heat range colder. If you wont to run a plug that is "available" run a 5, if you want to run a "racing plug" run a 6.

    I am a FIRM believer in the hottest plug that will live in the engine. Others believe in the coldest plug that doesn't foul. IF, and thats a big IF, you were racing this thing, maybe the "coldest plug" idea is viable. But not in a play boat.
    Thank you Bob. Definitely a play boat. Can't even race a PWC and expect to win in this thing

    Lookin at NGK YR5 and/or BR6FS... According to the Autolite cross reference they equate to 144 & 145, respectively. Both Autolite parts have the same heat range of "B13"... whatever that equates to. Any thoughts on either of the Autolites? One over the other?

    NGK's are special order and Autolites are in stock. Are the NGK's worth the wait?
    Last edited by Budweiser; 10-13-2012 at 12:15 AM.

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    Always had good luck with a Ur5 in SBChevy

  14. #12
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Thank you Bob. Definitely a play boat. Can't even race a PWC and expect to win in this thing

    Lookin at NGK YR5 and/or BR6FS... According to the Autolite cross reference they equate to 144 & 145, respectively. Both Autolite parts have the same heat range of "B13"... whatever that equates to. Any thoughts on either of the Autolites? One over the other?

    NGK's are special order and Autolites are in stock. Are the NGK's worth the wait?
    Not sure where you got the B13 reference.
    The best matching NGK numbers for Autolite 144 and 145 are
    NGK 4323(stocking number) BR6FS(plug number)Marine plug
    NGK stk 7052 (stocking number) YR5(plug number)
    Can't believe that NGK are special order. Where do you live, outer Mongolia? Or you only have 1 auto parts store in your 2 stop sign town?



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    Let me understand this.....you have a basically stock 350 Chevy, ( relatively low compression, as compared to racing pop-ups ) stock points and coil igniton, a tunnel ram set up ( which only really works at the very high rpm range, but you don't have the cam, heads, and valve train), and I'll guess it's over carbed to compensate, and, you've got this in a jet, which generally, a stock pump limits max rpm to somewhere around 5600.............................and you're concerned over not finding a heat range chart for NGKs or Autolites? Is there some reason why Champion or AC plugs won't fire your engine? Beyond wanting a certain make of spark plug, my guess is that your stock engine may have mixture and oil fouling issues, that you're not aware of yet due to all of the above, and might do well with a bit hotter plug. That's just a guess, what the heck could I possibly know without reading the way your plugs are burning for myself? Or anyone else, for that matter.
    Read your plugs, let your engine tell you what it needs . Know also, that plug manufacturer cross-over charts aren't always exact heat range cross-overs, that is, what, say, Champion says is the proper plug for your engine , may not cross-over in NGK to exactly the same heat range, probably close to, but sometimes colder, sometimes hotter. As the tune up mechanic , you must read the plugs, and understand the engine's use, to determine it's best heat range requirement.
    Last edited by Spike Morelli; 10-14-2012 at 02:41 PM.

  16. #14
    just a ski boat with bark Carnivalride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Thank you Bob. Definitely a play boat. Can't even race a PWC and expect to win in this thing

    Lookin at NGK YR5 and/or BR6FS... According to the Autolite cross reference they equate to 144 & 145, respectively. Both Autolite parts have the same heat range of "B13"... whatever that equates to. Any thoughts on either of the Autolites? One over the other?

    NGK's are special order and Autolites are in stock. Are the NGK's worth the wait?

    In Autolite a 144 and 145 are not the same heat range. Also if your having fouling issues why not run the extended tip version 24, 25 or even a 26? I used to run the extended tip 25 in my BBC but when I changed pistons to bump compression I couldn't run the extended tip and switched to the 145. If your carbs are close and your ignition is working right and the plugs are still black you need a hotter plug. Remember you're pumping lake water through this thing not 180-190* water from a radiator.

    JMO,
    Loren
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Carnivalride, you really need to find some other hobby. You have no talent for this boat thing

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