Port Finish
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Port Finish

  1. #1
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Default Port Finish

    How to?
    OK, I have seen a lot of beautiful port work in my day. I am not a porter. Don't wanna be.
    I do, however, want to be able to duplicate that beaufitul finish I see. Straight, smooth lines...
    What do you guys finish with? Just a sanding cartrige?
    A flapper wheel? WTF
    Wags

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    No, these lines.
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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    No, these lines.
    Those are probably done with a flapper, although there are some guys who go way crazy with their finishes and have some secrets. I use a combination of cartridge rolls and flappers for my finsh work, but lately I've been finisheing some stuff with the carbide burr and leaving it. There are areas in the port where this can be worth a little extra power.
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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Flapper? WTF is a flapper?
    I'll google it.
    I can't seem to get it so pretty with just a cartrige roll. Maybe I am just lame. HAHA
    Thanks Scott.
    Wags

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    One of these? Seems like they would be "hard".??
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    One of these? Seems like they would be "hard".??
    Nah. They also make them with scotchbrite between the layers, or just pure scotchbrite.


    plus crossbuffs


    and then there is the age old trick of slotting a piece of 1/4 rod and putting 2 layers of emory thru it and creating a butterfly flapper.



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  10. #8
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Nah. They also make them with scotchbrite between the layers, or just pure scotchbrite.


    plus crossbuffs


    and then there is the age old trick of slotting a piece of 1/4 rod and putting 2 layers of emory thru it and creating a butterfly flapper
    .
    Bingo. This is what most guys do that I know of.
    Wags, get a piece of 1/4" round stock and slot the end of it with a hack saw, 'bout an inch deep. Then go get some 1" wide roll emery cloth. I use 40g to finish intake ports, 100g to finish the ex ports. You tear a strip about 6-8" long, slip one end in the slot, and roll it up. Then you use that to "flap" the ports. If I can remember tomorrow, I'll try to get a pic or two.
    Last edited by scott foxwell; 01-17-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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    gn7
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    plumbing supply houses sell stuff that they use for sanding copper pipe for sweating that works pretty good. The blue stuff seems to work and last the best. And its already in a roll 1" wide.



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    "Need For Speed" Gearhead's Avatar
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    AS per Steel, the emery tool on the left will flapper out pretty shiny. A shiny port sells.... but as per Steel is not always the best air flow. If an intake port is too slick you will loose your boundary layer and the air/fuel will begin to stick to the port wall. One can see this at times if you pull the intake off, the port is real shiny and has fuel stain streaks down the ports. If you see this the fuel has fallen out of suspension and more than likely there is a power loss. Another tool that sometimes helps straighten out your port wall is a long tapered stone. The stone can take some of the cuts and chatter out of the finish left by a grabbing carbide. The stone finish flows pretty well and can then be easily polished with an emory roll.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Sweet. I will make a flapper mandrel. Do you guys like the cross buffs? I'll try some.
    I only port match and bowl blend.
    Real race stuff goes out to real porters. I do not have the desire, time, or knowledge.
    So, it just needs to look sweet (ok, it needs to be right and look sweet)
    Wags

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	polish.jpg 
Views:	121 
Size:	11.9 KB 
ID:	197929

    AS per Steel, the emery tool on the left will flapper out pretty shiny. A shiny port sells.... but as per Steel is not always the best air flow. If an intake port is too slick you will loose your boundary layer and the air/fuel will begin to stick to the port wall. One can see this at times if you pull the intake off, the port is real shiny and has fuel stain streaks down the ports. If you see this the fuel has fallen out of suspension and more than likely there is a power loss. Another tool that sometimes helps straighten out your port wall is a long tapered stone. The stone can take some of the cuts and chatter out of the finish left by a grabbing carbide. The stone finish flows pretty well and can then be easily polished with an emory roll.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  15. #13
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    Sweet. I will make a flapper mandrel. Do you guys like the cross buffs? I'll try some.
    I only port match and bowl blend.
    Real race stuff goes out to real porters. I do not have the desire, time, or knowledge.
    So, it just needs to look sweet (ok, it needs to be right and look sweet)
    Wags
    Hey Wags, show us some pics of what'cher workin on.

    Cross buff? Do you use that in the shower?
    Last edited by scott foxwell; 01-18-2013 at 08:21 AM.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  16. #14
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Hey Wags, show us some pics of what'cher workin on.

    Cross buff? Do you use that in the shower?
    Funny stuff...
    I am getting myself psyched up to start on a set of 781's and a set of alum wal mart brand SBC heads.
    I really don't like to port. I'd rather bore a 4.250 bowtie block to 4.600.... it is just as boring. (but with boring I can surf the net or something)
    Wags

    I'll post a pic or two when I really start. You probably will learn something.... ROFL... HAHAHAH
    Wags

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