Dodge 440
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Dodge 440

  1. #1
    Just Me snoc653's Avatar
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    Default Dodge 440

    I just bought a jet boat with a 440 in it. Of course the guy says it was rebuilt. I've never been a mopar person and I plan on pulling the motor and going through it to make sure everything is right. The question is, What does right look like on a 440? I'm thinking of taking the rotating assembly down and having it ballanced. Are there some cranks that are better than others? Are stock rods ok in these motors? Here is what he says was done to it. "the engine being stripped, the block was thermal cleaned, shot blasted and tumbled, magnafluxed, bored, honed, resurfaced on a mill with carbide cutters, the line bore inspected, the main bore sizes checked against spec, and finish washed prior to assembly, the crankshaft was resized and polished after being maganfluxed, the connecting rods were cleaned, magnafluxed, resized and straightened, the cylinder heads were thermal cleaned, magnafluxed, valve guides replaced using manley 1/2"od replacement valve guides, the guides were resized using diamond reamers, the 3-angle valve job was performed on a sunnen VGS machine with carbide tooling, the valve guide clearance was inspected with a dial bore guage and the valve seat runout was inspected against spec after machining with a dial indicated valve seat runout guage, the valves were cleaned, the stems polished, and refaced on a sioux vavle machine, the valve springs were inspected using a computerized vavle spring rate testing machine.
    The entire engine was assembled by an engine shop using dial bore guages to check all the bearing clearances and the parts were cosmolined for rust inhibition.

    The parts installed included and were all new: Pistons, rings, camshaft, lifters, oil pump, cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, timing set, and gaskets."

    I'm not sure about rods were straightened, maybe he ment checked for straightness. Is there head work or valve train work that should be done to a 440 or that is recomended for our applications? And finally it has a single 4bbl on a single plain manifold, is this good for a jet boat and still get good performance? I like the look of two 4s on a highrise but i want to get it on the river 1st.

    Sorry for the long post.

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    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Did any of the parts you listed have pt. no. types,or brands! Compression pistons or not, size of cam? Sonds like a fresh stright up rebuild IMO! WT

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    Just Me snoc653's Avatar
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    no part specs listed or given. I've asked him for the specs and if he has any reciepts I could copy or have when i pick the boat up next week. Another reason i'm thinking the $100 in gaskets is well worth it to tear it apart and see what is what.

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Jeeezzz

    That's one hell of a lie, if it's not true. I'd believe him. Take it out, see what happens... IMO

    Any shop references? What'd he say about the receipts 'n shit?

    If someone went through that big of a lie to sell a boat... I might consider hiring a thug. It's one thing to say "I don't know" or "the guy before me had this and that done"... But all that detail??? I'd just run it.

    BTW, I'm a Chevy guy, but some of those Mopar's are just unbelievable.

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    Thats me too. With that much detail on the build, Id run it to see what it does before I'd tear it down. Did you take it for a test drive?

    Tim

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    Good news is, 440's are damn good motors, and robust. If it were me, I'd simply pull a valve cover. You can tell right away if the motor is really fresh or not by the lack of any deposits under the valve covers and condition of the valve train. Not a perfect technique by any means, but better than nothing. A lot easier than tearing the entire motor down.


    Darrell.
    San Diego.

    28ft Sportcat
    With Twins

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    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMOORE View Post
    Good news is, 440's are damn good motors, and robust. If it were me, I'd simply pull a valve cover. You can tell right away if the motor is really fresh or not by the lack of any deposits under the valve covers and condition of the valve train. Not a perfect technique by any means, but better than nothing. A lot easier than tearing the entire motor down.


    Darrell.

    Ditto:

    I think I'd do the same thing and call it a day. It would be nice to see work order from the re-build shop and maybe give them a call for some spec's on the cam and compression.

    As far as the single 4bbl on a 440 that's a fine choice.

    Sleeper CP
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    fast is the other half.
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  10. #8
    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snoc653 View Post
    no part specs listed or given. I've asked him for the specs and if he has any reciepts I could copy or have when i pick the boat up next week. Another reason i'm thinking the $100 in gaskets is well worth it to tear it apart and see what is what.
    That would have been a good move BEFORE you bought it. I would at least have a leak down performed, valve adjustment checked, oil sample and analysis. This will tell you about the condition of the motor.

    If that looks good, add new oil-wires-plugs-cap-rotor, and go run it. If it then meets your performance expectation, you're all set. If you want more, good time to tear it down and assess the next steps.

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMOORE View Post
    Good news is, 440's are damn good motors, and robust. If it were me, I'd simply pull a valve cover. You can tell right away if the motor is really fresh or not by the lack of any deposits under the valve covers and condition of the valve train. Not a perfect technique by any means, but better than nothing. A lot easier than tearing the entire motor down.


    Darrell.
    Ditto here too. Go enjoy it.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
    H.L. Mencken

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    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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    For questions on mopar engines you might want to go to www.moparts.com . You can find out more than you ever wanted to know. If you want to go wild with it you can always stroke it to a 528 cheap.

  13. #11
    cfm
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    I bet the prev owner copy and pasted that description. It sounds exactly like a description you'd read for a 'rebuilt' engine advertised on the net, including e-bay.

    Not saying good or bad 'cause how the heck would we know if engine is good or not, just pointing out that the description 99% chance is not from a regular person unless copied and pasted.

  14. #12
    blown mopar moparjet's Avatar
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    i run a 440...cant seem to blow it up...been running the same short block w/stock rods for five years...and with the blower and 6lbs for 2years...just watch the timming w/iron heads...i do have a tunnel ram complete set up for a 440 for the right price
    throw it in reverse

  15. #13
    Just Me snoc653's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moparjet View Post
    i run a 440...cant seem to blow it up...been running the same short block w/stock rods for five years...and with the blower and 6lbs for 2years...just watch the timming w/iron heads...i do have a tunnel ram complete set up for a 440 for the right price
    What does the right price sound like to you? I did get the boat back and will start working on it this weekend. This flood duty is taking way more time than I had hoped. I'm pretty sure I'm going to pull the motor apart and just rebuild it. The machine shop said 7 - 10 days to align hone and zero deck the block as well as ballance crank, and rotating assembly. If it has forged pistons now I'll keep them. If they aren't forged but are new and good, I'll consider keeping them and and forget zero decking the block. I'll also need to find a jetboat oil pan for it as it appears to have a smallish car pan on it.

  16. #14
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    Default Run it.....

    Why take it apart? Run it. Bust it's balls, if it lives, great, if not, you were going to put a BBC in it anyway........To re balance a pressed pin engine is a really good way to destroy a couple of pistons during "un press" since you can't heat the little end of the rod. The reason the pan looks small is because the pan rails are low hung on a Mopar, the crank is stuck way up inside........$100. for re assembly gaskets my be a little low, remember they use a bath tub intake gasket.......Run it, have fun, evaluate it this season and re work it this winter. How will you know how much you improved it if you don't have a baseline for comparison?..........I have an 80 "JJ Custom" jetboat, (Challenger splash), with a built 383 Chrysler that is alot of fun. Not the fastest boat on the water, but not the slowest either...........Run it.................MP
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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